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Anti-bag 49-52 Chevy thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by matthew mcglothin, Nov 15, 2011.

  1. speaks
    Joined: Mar 22, 2009
    Posts: 34

    speaks
    Member
    1. 4 door kustoms

    This is my '50 4 door.

    [​IMG]

    fatman uprights and 1.5 coils cut up front, leaf pack de-arched and 3" blocks and air shocks in the back. Tires are 6.40-15 BFG silvertowns.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 1, 2013
    Deuce79 likes this.
  2. riseabove_xxx
    Joined: Dec 3, 2010
    Posts: 210

    riseabove_xxx
    Member
    from Michigan

    beautiful!
     
  3. kcbeardclub
    Joined: Jul 1, 2013
    Posts: 81

    kcbeardclub
    Member
    from KCMO

    What is this about, I'm about to put 3 inch blocks on my pure stock 51 Fleetline, first time using blocks. Will I need to do anything else or will there be enough clearance?
     
  4. Bill in Al
    Joined: Sep 26, 2011
    Posts: 72

    Bill in Al
    Member

    Had 4" blocks under my '50. Don't put the mother-in-law in the back seat! Should be ok with 3".
     
  5. hudson hot rod
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 266

    hudson hot rod
    Member

    I also cut the rear bump stops in half and I cut them at an angle to make it a little softer instead of having straight on contact when it bottoms out. I'm way under the scrub line in the rear with 3" blocks, you guys running 4 inchers must be dang near draggin! :D
     
  6. kcbeardclub
    Joined: Jul 1, 2013
    Posts: 81

    kcbeardclub
    Member
    from KCMO

    again, I'm getting ready to put in 3 inch blocks and 2 inch drop springs up front, never done it before and wanting to make sure those will go in without clearance problems. Thanks for all of your help guys.
     
  7. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 17,689

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    here's a picture of a 49 I had a few years ago.kinda hard to tell whats going on but you will notice the lowest point of the suspension is the bottom of the spring plate. no nuts and bolts hanging below the scrub line. I think I had 4" of block, these were 15's but I could run my 14's too and still be safe.

    you can kind of see the nut and bolt in the dark up a couple inches.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,560

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa

    No bags in the front of mine. (next year it will get them). its tuckin about an inch of rim on a 560 tire

    [​IMG]

    thats a slimmer 60s ford next to me and my bumper sat below the bottom of it. Rear edge of front fender opening is below the bottom of the rim.
     
  9. Just dropped the rear of my '51 this weekend 4" blocks on old leaf springs, I have about 1.5" - 2" of travel left.
    Next is to step the lower A-arms and cut the coils for the front. I made my own lowering blocks too,(stacked &welded 2"x2"x1/4" box tubing). The best part of all is the box tubing was scrap from work I spent $20 for U-bolts and about $4 at the hardware for the allen-head cap bolts (for alignment pin) so for less than $25 bucks I got the back sitting right, and other than gas and welding wire, the front should be free to lower about 4"s. I'll get to that soon and post pics when I do. Thanks for all the great info in this topic!

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1382325087.278385.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1382325107.990045.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1382325144.006793.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1382325162.340150.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1382325175.074675.jpg



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  10. Got the front down now!
    She's low now.....
    Stepped the lower arms, and cut 2 coils off the spring.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1384094115.311658.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1384094139.952136.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1384094184.438919.jpg


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  11. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,856

    chaddilac
    Member

  12. 1950 fleetline
    Joined: Dec 8, 2013
    Posts: 10

    1950 fleetline
    Member
    from San Diego

    Bags are for fags... U have to stay old skool and use oil pressure for adjustable ride height. Been working on this for three years, not sure if I'll ever be done. 1387239889580.jpg 1387239906243.jpg

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  13. one46chevy
    Joined: Jul 29, 2009
    Posts: 13

    one46chevy
    Member

    Why? Cause your custom look is supposed to be the only way to customize a car? Oh yea cause I would really like to have all that oil, batteries, battery acid, pumps, and hoses taking up all my trunk space! Not to mention all the oil stains on the driveway from those awesome leaking cylinders! Well I guess I'll just go out and buy some hydros..... so no my friend bags are not for fags, to each his own.

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  14. el_santo
    Joined: Nov 17, 2012
    Posts: 3

    el_santo
    Member

    Lots of really cool rides in this thread.
    Here is my 50, cut coils in the front and 3" blocks in the back.
    (unsure if this attachment will work :eek: )
    11160192444_67147f7158_c.jpg
     
  15. 1950 fleetline
    Joined: Dec 8, 2013
    Posts: 10

    1950 fleetline
    Member
    from San Diego

    What kind of hydros are u talking about or have seen? I have all my trunk space and this includes my two batteries. No leaks yet but then again its only been two years since I installed them. Anyways don't get ur panties in a bunch. Its only a quote that rhymes... Nothing more;)

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  16. billybadass
    Joined: May 9, 2007
    Posts: 51

    billybadass
    Member
    from ohio

    Here is my 49 it has 2-1/2" drop uprights an 3" blocks in back, it also has a disc brake upgrade as well,right now I trying to decide if I wanna run supremes or the steelies.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. billybadass
    Joined: May 9, 2007
    Posts: 51

    billybadass
    Member
    from ohio

    Steelies or supremes?
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,352

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Tough one there, they both look good. I'm partial to steel / WW combo though


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  19. TRAU 82
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 24

    TRAU 82
    Member

    Sorry for no pics just yet, but I've cut one full coil off front and 3" blocks in back on my '53. Loving the rear (without any further headache), but would like to cut more out of front. Judging by your pics, sounds like another half a coil would be no prob...but would I be pushing it/getting into any other issues/giving up any ride if i were to cut another full coil?? (to = 2 full coils cut) thanks in advance..will try and post my before and after pics.
     
  20. TRAU 82
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 24

    TRAU 82
    Member

    Here she is in all of her glory..your thoughts much appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

  21. ...years ago we jacked em up to emulate gassers,...
    [​IMG]
    ...now we lower em...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  22. TRAU 82
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 24

    TRAU 82
    Member

    I've decided to go with a set of the Fat Man Fabrication dropped uprights and steering arms for my 53. Can anyone tell me why there would be $190 difference in price between ordering them from Fat Man vs. ordering them from Hot Rod Hardware ($595.00 vs. $405). Not bashing anyone here...just want to make sure I order the right stuff, am I missing something?? (First picture being Fat Man Fab and second being Hotrod Hardware)

    Also, here are the links:

    http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/1949-1954-chevy-dropped-uprights/

    http://www.hotrodhardware.com/index...gory_id=1096/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd4629.htm
     

    Attached Files:


  23. I had a look and I don't think the Hot Rod Hardware price includes the dropped steering arms. If I remember right the steering arms are about $190. I got mine from Gambino Customs.
     
  24. TRAU 82
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 24

    TRAU 82
    Member

    ...now that I had a look at both of them individually, your prob right. roughly 400-405 for the uprights and 185-190 for the steering arms. thanks for having a look kan't spell. appreciate it man..
     
  25. thewaxhead
    Joined: Apr 3, 2012
    Posts: 81

    thewaxhead
    Member

    Hey guys, great info. Here is my 51' delivery, with de arched springs and not sure in the front yet (just bought the car)


    The diff has about an 1.5" of travel before it hits the stock bump stops.

    If I add 2" blocks and trim the bump stop, will I be more likely to scrub the on tunnel first or will the diff be hitting the chassis first?

    Ive had other static cars like Valiants, where the tailshaft will start to smack the tunnel before the diff hits the floor or chassis


    This is just temporary option before I c notch and bag the thing

    [​IMG]
     
  26. thewaxhead
    Joined: Apr 3, 2012
    Posts: 81

    thewaxhead
    Member

    Great stance, did you have to trim the bump stop a bit, or delete it all together ?
     
  27. speaks
    Joined: Mar 22, 2009
    Posts: 34

    speaks
    Member
    1. 4 door kustoms

    Thanks, I trimmed them right back to abou 1/4 inch thickness. The pumpkin taps the trunk floor just before the diff hits the rails but on big bumps they both hit pretty hard. In western australia where i live it is illegal to c notch your cars chassis so unfortonately I just have to put up with the banging.


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  28. thewaxhead
    Joined: Apr 3, 2012
    Posts: 81

    thewaxhead
    Member

    Cheers mate, that's really good to know. I reckon ill trim the bump stops and lower it a bit more for the meantime. I might be able to get away with it lower as my delivery is lighter than a sedan or coupe, hopefully less radical when i hit a bump.
     
  29. thewaxhead
    Joined: Apr 3, 2012
    Posts: 81

    thewaxhead
    Member

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1393664632.024049.jpg

    Reset leaf springs with tall bias ply's.

    No blocks and stock front suspension


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