Man, that don't sound right. Anyway, I'm to the point where I need to mount the 9" rearend in my A frame. It has a severe kick in the back, so here's the question. How did you guys with severe kickups mount the rearend. I planned on running coil springs but that could still be changed at this point, I guess. Give me some ideas and pics if you have 'em.
I have a 21" kickup in the rear of my A sedan. I used Speedway mounts,and a transverse spring. Just no rear seatSparky
don't want to steal the thread. i've never seen a 2 link before, what are the pros/cons of using them?
Use Chevy truck arms with coils ala early c-10's...that's what your favorite NASCAR guy has on his car...
Come on guys. I know several of you have done this. What'd you use. 2 link, 3link, 4 link,watt's. Give me some more ideas.
Here's a couple pics. 31 on 32 rails roadster, Chris Alston Chassisworks 4 link. The bars look big cuz they are - 1 1/4" OD. Car was slated for the dry lakes originally. The C.A. poly bushing/Heim-like pieces at the ends are interesting. Sort of a cross between a regular all-steel Heim joint and a poly bushing setup. Flat rear crossmember which should work fine on a chassis that's been kicked up in the back. Other items of interest: 40 Ford spring pack with SoCal main leaf - not available by itself anymore. SoCal spring perch brackets. Speedway rear shocks, chrome, made in Canada. Deuce Factory rear sway bar. (Mounts just visible upper right.) Owner built 7/8" OD panhard. (Out of sight, mounts between spring and rear axle. It's close, but if clears.) Pete & Jakes coilover lower mounts, used here as shock mounts. (Coilover mounts in case I want to go to coilovers, but I'm pretty sure I'm not. More tunability and travel with a leaf spring.) You can just see the axle panhard bar mount on the right. I like them longer, but the way things worked out this was as long as I could do. There's a lot of stuff packaged in a small area. The rear spring is retained by 1/2" bolts through 1" OD bushings - that I also use for crush tubes - that are welded into milled recesses on each side of the crossmember. Done to gain some clearance for the panhard and it also makes for a good fit on the spring. The half buried 1" OD bushing bottom of crossmember on the right is the upper shock/coilover mount. The spring sits on a 1/4" 'wear' pad. This will allow the use of an added aluminum pad to allow raising of the cars rear if necessary . . . and it will be, about a 1/2" piece will go in and that should make the clearance for travel about right. 3rd pic shows the SoCal spring perch brackets. Nice design and they work well. Last pic shows a 29 on 32 rails roadster seen at the 2003 hot rod reunion. It sits right in the rear end and the pic is included to show the height of the spring pad used.
As an alternative to a heavy, awkward, space killing and sometimes complicated "Z'd" framework above the rear axle I'd like to show you how those British Morgan sports car builders have been building them low for decades and still are making them. Like this: If you used about 25" long leaf springs you could still tuck them under the body of a Model A coupe or roadster and if you just had to have a transverse spring you could use the same parts C9 is using but restack the spring upside-down to "normal" and bolt it to the top of a closer rear crossmember instead of under, so the "U" of the spring curved up instead of down. Yes, that would work! The rest of a Morgan "Channelled Roadster" build is here. Just replace the Morgan body with a Model A or T body and you've got the better part of a century of successful design under your rod.
Man Dr. J, that is a neat set up. Never even though of doing it that way. Getting lots of good ideas here.
Are you building a Coupe, Sedan, Truck, ???? It DOES make a difference! AND ...how LOW do you want to GO ? Glenn
It's a sedan with a 15" kickup running 7.50X16 tires in back. Not going to channel it(yet). Here it is mocked up at the ride height I want.
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