Another head gasket question... for a flathead

I'm gonna pull the radiator off the coupe to have it rodded, etc..., so I'm gonna take this time to pull the heads, scrape the water jackets, flush the coolant gunk, etc... What's the best-type replacement head gaskets and the best place to get them? I've seen them going for $20-$70/set, so need some experienced insight before jumping in.

Any thoughts?

 

The standard gaskets are probably the best if its not a hi-po motor. If bored, look for the large bore gaskets.

Where to buy? Mac's, Patricks, Job Lot for a few. All good places with good service and reasonable prices.

 

For my 2 cents worth, i use only the double copper type with avaition permatex.have used them for years with no problems. can even re-use them by cleaning up with steel wool and permatex again.

 

Here is, I Hope, a link to an interesting new gasket from Fel Pro that is actually new and not just a rerun of a forties gasket:

http://groups.msn.com/FordFlathead1932to1953/general.msnw?action=get_message&ID_Message=12836&ShowDelete=0&CDir=2

There are more letters in the thread than appear on the screen--you have to mess with the "first", "previous", etc. commands under the messages to get all--and there are complications in the discussion.
Isn't there someone on the board who works for Fel Pro?

 

So this Blue Whiz gasket has been out for maybe a year already?
I keep buying the older Felpro BigBore cuz no one has mentioned this before, at least on any site I deem worth visiting

So anyone have part #, that wasnt ever answered in the mentioned thread??

 

This is good stuff - sounds like the Blue Teflon gasket is the way to go, but I couldn't 'cipher the correct part number (Fel-Pro or NAPA) from reading this thread - did I miss something?

My flatty is a 59AB, but I'm not sure if I'll need big-bore or not. I'm assuming big-bore would work for smaller bores, but obviously not vice versa (?)

Anyone else...?

 

That thread I posted from MSN ended in a welter of confusion based on both bad answers from FP and confused reading skills...but there are several answers in there. Remember there are 3 or so pages of post there, and you have to click on badly arranged buttons to see all. If anyone actually sorts it out, please post here--I'm trying to figger it and will post if I do.

 

And who is FelPro's HAMB Representative?? I'm sure that someone recently mentioned working for Fel Pro.
Maybe there's a way to get an answer without having to buy a hundred bucks worth of random obsolete stuff--then we can get modern gaskets before FP discontinues them because no one could find them to buy them...

 

I just got back from looking thru the Fel-Pro book and talking to the Fel-Pro tech line. The only gaskets they offer for the 8BA flatty (I goofed when I said mine was 59AB before - too many numbers floating around) are the 7525B and 7526B (or 752xB-1 for overbore) which are composite material. The tech guy said they make a blue kevlar uber-gasket, but not for flatheads.

 

62 Buford,
I just saw your post and see that you have found your answers.We (FelPro, yes I'm that guy) offer a composite design head gasket for the flat head due to the extreme thermal variances the engine design experiances. Coolant seal is of most importance, and cooper designs are marginal at best. I'm assuming from your posts, you have the '49-'53 engine, which we offer a complete gasket set for (FelPro # FS7525B) as well as intake, exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan, rear seal,water outlet,waterpump.
Be certain to have clean head bolts or studs and nuts (which ever you may be using) and ONLY use Moly Lube or Anti-Seize on the threads, NO OIL! Using any other lube on the threads will give incorrect torque load (clamp load)to the gasket serface.
Once you have successfully torqued the cylinder head in the proper sequence, wait 15 minutes then back off each nut/bolt in reverse sequence, 1/2 turn....then wait 20 minutes, then retorque in the proper sequence to the proper torque specifacations. What this proceedure does is give the gasket a "Set", then gives it the opportunity to relax (imatating a heat cycle) then the re-torqe will generally end up in a different clock position, due to the increased clamp load.
Hopes this helps!
Glenn Hayes

 

Bingo GLENN - that's what I needed - thanks.