I have an aluminum radiator in my convertible. Fought cooling problems for years, put in two different radiators, problem wound up being a transmission cooler in front of the radiator that was way too big, blocking air from the radiator
large flat washer, 1/8" rubber disc, large flat washer, 1/8" rubber disc, underneath, small flat washer, radiator spring, flat washer nyloc nut on top... using the stock radiator support style rods,,, really helps steady the thing... go D Y go !
While working on the hood latch, I decided to take the apron or what ever you might call it off in front of the rad. I looked a the ele fan and noticed how much it does In fact block the air flow ( made me think about your post) I removed it to clean the rad and placed it back.Now I am thinking I might remove it and see if it makes a difference. Gonna drive it today with and without the same distance and see.
I have a $190 Champion (fits a '65 Chevy with some mods to my Ford...) on eBay (radiatore4less), free shipping, polished tanks. Better than the deal direct from Champion. I believe it was US made and the welding was impecible all over. I used nylon washers between the mounting and radiator wall, added a small ground strap to one corner, took great pains to make sure the aluminum was not rubbing anywhere and use a sacrificial anode (which I should change soon).
I have two Champion radiators that work perfectly and never gave me any issue.. I bought the both of them for under 150 each.. They came with caps too.. I bought them on e-Bay from some guy in Texas.. I would check out all the offers on e-Bay. I got such a great deal on them. I wish I could buy more and store them away but I think the aluminum would go bad..
Another company for anyone to consider is Superior Radiator in North Detroit. https://www.wwwsuperiorradiator.com/ They have built three rads for me, 1962 Cutlass and two Model A. I personally watched them build each on. Every rad is custom built. They primarily service the heavy truck industry in Michigan and build a damn good rad at a reasonable price. The cutlass is over 20 years and the one Model A is nine years, never a hint of a problem. Warren
sometimes getting the hot air out of engine compartment(if enclosed) is just as important as radiator air flow, just like on a hot day in traffic when ya run a little warmer, overall air temp passing through a rad is a factor. If yer fan is pushing and engine compartment air is high it's the same as that hot day deal,and if your pulling air and the enclosed compartment can't vent all that warm( or hot ) air it's also not gonna cool as well. Just a thought.
You know, I was thinking on that yesterday, could just be me but while working on many cars , this car seems to hold heat in engine compartment more than a lot I have worked . On. Prob a bit to do with the hood curvature, sort of cupping the hot air un like perhaps a mustang with a flat type hood . Seems I always get a blast of really hit air for some time after running car when I open hood. Btw I installed a new temp gauge, had one that was eletronic type , the one I bought is a Bosch non electrical type . Also added some VP cool down just to see what it would do. Temp ran around up to 195 befor thermostat opened then went to around 180.I then stopped with car in gear temp climbed to 214, knocked out of gear got up to around 1200 rpms and came back down to below 200. So I think the rad will be ok . Oh and when I flipped the ele fan on when sitting , the temp climbed a few degrees, go figure.
The Jalopy Journal
