hey guys, I'm about to start my REBEL wire project and Im doing a article for REBEL and doing a video blog for my buddys website. I've got a 65 f100 - - no show truck but done in a 60s style. i've got a 5.0 out of a 86 mustang with 84 f150 front alternator bracket I modified.. thought it looked cool. I attached a photo.. Im not a purist but Im a ford in a ford kinda guy... but that said I'm running a hei dizzy and of course now rebels wire harness which is set up to run a GM 3 wire. Don't really want to have a goofy parts store bracket for my alternator but if its better in the long run I'll do it. The one pictured had a upper bracket for AC I chopped that off and rounded it out. The fellas at Rebel have offered a stock harness to wire into theirs that will work with my current and fairly new alternator .. but, its externally regulated and the thought of "upgrading" sounds good.. but is it worth it or should I just use the harness offered by REBEL. I've never had a problem out of this alternator but I am on my 2nd one since 2007 with just better than 6000 mi on the motor. Which alternator year make and model should I be looking at ? I hear the 10si is the way to go... but there seems to be different variations. Appreciate your input Just want what is the best way to go while I'm at it .. and make a good write up for REBEL
Also, are there any brackets out there that fit a gm alt to a ford block.. I know there are alternators for this.. but would rather have the ability to swing by joes parts store in 10 buck 2 and be able to get an alt if I need to. Im sure I can make something. just curious whats out there. Thanks
The 10si I run are from 73 (first year in chevy) to about 79 camaro. You should be able to make your brackets work for the 10si, you'll need to drill out the non threaded hole on the 10si to 7/16" and open the spread a little bit. The main difference is the length I cant remember exactly how much but it's around an 1" out the rear. On my FE it hit the head so I went with T-bird brackets. ALL my cars/trucks run the 10si (stock ones, NOT the 1 wire), Ford didn't make an internal alt until the serpentine belt era.
The main problem with 1st generation Ford/GM/Chrysler alternators is poor amperage output at idle and lower rpms. I carefully rebuilt and "beautified" a '60s (about 61 amp) Ford alternator years ago, made a custom bracket for my flathead, and then learned through Ron Francis, Mark Hamilton @ M.A.D. enterprises, and finally 1st hand through a comparison test at a local re-builder just how much better a 61-63 amp GM 10si is. (Sold the Ford alt. and bought the 10si) The custom bracket I made required very little modification for the 10si to fit. I also learned how much better the 10/12si alternators will perform when wired the way GM designed them, and that's with 3 wires (4, if you add a ground, and a good idea, imo) not one wire, that's primarily intended for marine/industrial/stationary applications. The 10 and 12 si alternators are the same size externally, just different fan and larger air intake on the rear of the 12 for better cooling with higher amp models. Learn what amperage your system requires and match the specs with the 10 or 12 si at your local parts store, etc. Go to Mark's web site below for all you need to know about these alternators, and much more! http://www.madelectrical.com/
If.....you would spend some time with the above link, you'd know. Can lead a horse to water, but can't make it drink.
Lol. Thanks I was grocery shopping when I replied.. Will do. Sent from my LG-D800 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Like 1oldtimer said, drill out the non threaded hole to fit the Ford bolt, and it usually fits the brackets pretty well. If by chance the wire connectors are too close to the head or block, you can take the through bolts out and re-clock the rear body to move them away from the block/heads.
Been doing some looking around.. I have read through that article. The higher amp rated alternators are appealing to me.. however, not sure I need them.. I know i don't now. the only add on I have are h4 bulbs and an electric fan. my 70 amp ford kept up. I have no radio.. however, Id like to add one -- hidden-- truck was ordered without a radio. I would guess a 78 amp would be fine. If I do this swap, I initially thought I would prefer a popular unit like a c10 camaro corvette or something that I could get anywhere. The 12si is intriguing me .. but I like the traditional looks of the stamped blades. poking around I found this. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-p?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*14999|L3*15587# 1984 corvette.. looks similar to 10si..but has a higher output. I have a 30% off coupon. so the cost isn't that drastic a deal to me. but like all the 94 amp 12si units it isn't a normal stock item. so I looked at a 1985 c10 and found a 78 amp unit -- looks like a 12si??? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...8-p?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*14999|L3*15587 found them in a few different price ranges from $50 up. all in stock. <-- this interest me a lot. Am I barking up the right tree?
I know it's not traditional but check out "billet tech", google em or look on you tube,I talked with the owner for about 10 min, that along with what I saw on the net impressed the hell out of me. And I ordered one for my OT 68 VIP.
I put a threaded insert in the OEM ford bracket to take the GM through bolt. THe adjusting arm slot, although wider, will work. This was on the the early 70's Ford bracket on my 351W. I think the GM through bolt is 3/8-16, and the Ford is 7/16"? I used a GM 10SI, on mine.
10si/12si: Also the 12si puts out more amps so you need to keep the fan that it comes with or you'll over heat it pulling large amps.
Well, figured I had better start somewhere, coupon I have ends today.. so ordered this guy. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...utm_campaign=confirmation&utm_content=general 78 amp looks like a 12si fits chevy c10... should be easy enough to get anywhere here in chevy land arkansas. although I'm not a fan ( ha ) of the fan. maybe if I mask off everything I can paint it trim black or something. Am I understanding correctly that if the back isn't "clocked" properly that I can re clock it?
Yes..easily clocked .. And just as easily messed up ! Here is the fool proof way to do it without the risk of popping the brushes out of the holder..... Mark the 2 case halves the way you want them to END UP ! Remove the pulley and fan and spacer behind the fan from the shaft. Set the alternator down on the bench with the shaft Sitting on the bench. Remove the 4 small bolts that hold the 2 halves together . Keeping the shaft firmly on the bench , gently tap the front housing down till it hits the bench..... Rotate it around so your marks line up...raise it up and start the bolts..Keeping the shaft firmly on the bench.. Tighten the bolts, reinstall the spacer , fan , and pulley. Do not attempt to move the back half of the case...the brushes can and will pop out of the holder if you move the case up and off of the shaft even a little bit ! I screwed up my fair share of brushes before one of my rebuilders showed me the correct way ! 30 + years in the auto parts business....you learn a few things along the way!
Thanks, the way it looks .. it appears the plug would exit towards the drivers side the way it installs in the truck.. but there is a fair amount of room there. I should be ok.
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