I posted this in a social group, but I thought I may get more answers on the main board here. "Hey guys, I am about to bag my 63 Merc, I have 2 Airlift 2 path Kits. Included is 2, 5 gal tanks, 8 3/8" valves, half inch line, 2 compressors, 2 dual needle guages, and switches/wiring. How are you guys powering these setups? Are you running a seperate Battery? If you do, How do you keep it from dying? Do you think I will be fine hooking up to the battery in my engine compartment? I just put a new alternator on, I would hate to have to change it. Any Help would be amazing! thanks in advance" Please Lets not have "THE ARGUEMENT" only post if you have helpful info. thanks.
No argument here and I'm not being a dick as I have bagged cars. But you don't go to an airplane site to ask about fishing.... Same thing here. You should post that question here: http://forums.streetrodderweb.com/index.html
You can run it off the alternator,but what size (Amp) alternator did you change to? I'm going to run a 100 amp alternator with a heavy duty voltage regulator on my '63 Galaxie. Found one on eBay that's going for under $80+shipping and it comes with a matching voltage regulator. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHROME-FORD-GALAXIE-500-ALTERNATOR-63-74-100-AMP_W0QQitemZ170447766501QQihZ007QQcategoryZ33573QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m444QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DCRX%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DSI%252BUA%252BLM%252BLA%26otn%3D5%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8606703624568508108
There's plenty of people here that could answer my question or I wouldn't have posted. Thanks for the link though. Im not sure how many amps the alternator is. I just bought the stock replacement. It is probably not big enough considering. Will the stock voltage regulator not work?
Have you seen the old air ride threads? We've proved that air ride is as traditional as the well accepted hydraulics(Air ride was actually used before the first hydraulic set up was put on a car,and we posted picture proof from a magazine article dated in 1958 to prove it),so the answer you just gave can stop there. I already posted an answer for him,and it'll probably be the best one,because running a separate battery usually would work for hydraulics. The compressors would drain a separate battery in no time. So,in case you haven't noticed,air ride has become a little more accepted than before by many of the members here,it's just the hard headed one's that can't read articles scanned from magazine dated back to 1958 that don't get it.
The stock alternator is probably around 45-60 amps,so your best bet is to upgrade to the one I posted a link to,and any time you run a bigger amp HD alternator,you need to run a voltage regulator made to handle it. But trust me,that alternator/regulator combo will let you power your air ride,stereo,and whatever else with no issues. Also invest in a decent battery like an Optima or Odyssey. No substition for ample power sources.
Thanks for the replies Hooligan, But lets please let posts like that fly, because I really dont want this thread to turn into a pointless arguement. Back on point, Does that voltage regulator need to be wired seperate, or can it just replace the stock one I already have wired?
The regulator replaces your factory one. You're factory one should be identical to the '63 Galaxie one,since I'm assuming you have a Monterey Breezeway.
Hmmm who told you I have a monterey breezeway?! lol Thanks for the info. man, i guess I have to buy an alternator and regulator for the Second Time. Damn Ive been watching your thread on the galaxie. I love the way that car sits.
It's a decent setup,but not what I want. I got it the way it is. The air ride setup will be totally redone,using two 5 gallon tanks,two Vi-Air 480C compressors,8-1/2" valves and solenoids,triangulated super pivot 4 link,water traps,etc. Everything will be done right this time. And believe it or not,the car lays frame without a notch. I think we will have to raise the drive shaft tunnel a little once it's installed(Maybe about 1/2" to 1"). If your frame is the same as mine,it should have a natural sweep in the rear,but you will have to cut and step the trunk floor to get it to sit right. Once we figure out what the problem is with my trunk solenoid and get it open,I'll take pics of everything on the trunk floor and under.
My frame is exactly the same. I've talked to alot of guys with galaxies, you can get it to lay with out a notch, from what i understand. Touchdowntodd on here has his laid out with AOL and no notch i believe. so does lgh1157 (with a 4 link). Only thing is the steering hangs low, so you will be resting on that before the frame if you dont relocate it a bit. I however do not want to lay frame. I want to be off the ground a bit. But low enough to make people wonder if it is an outrageous static drop.
I can attest that it does lay on the steering. Mine will all be fixed in due time.or maybe running some 15's with proper size tires will cure that problem. I plan on putting in Slam Specialty bags because they have built in bump stops,and should keep that from happening. Yeah,my frame isn;t notched either,but you will have to modify the trans tunnel depending on how low you want to sit and drive at.
to echo what has been said, you'll want to run "police equipment" or "HD" stuff. cop cars run 130 amp alternators and BIG batteries to cope with the demands of all the electronics in the car (lights, sirens, radios, computers, etc). i would find the house or (re)builder that supplies the stuff to all the local retailers and talk to them about what's available for your car or what they can do with your unit as an upgrade. also, and i know its trivial, but not playing with your bags all day really helps to reduce the load on your system. i know its hard to resist, but the less filling your tank needs, the less your compressors work. also make SURE there are NO leaks in your system. give everything the spray test every so often to make sure that you are not leaking down and causing your compressors to work over time.
make sure things are tight, but not over tight, all NEW fittings and DOT hose, DOT push on fittings, thread sealant at threaded fittings, grommets anywhere line passes through something. mostly basic stuff. no magic. just check and double check everything.
Make sure all your connections are sealed,do not over tighten your connectors,make sure all your air lines are connected securely,if you run air lines through any holes anywhere that are metal,try to fit grommets on the whole to prevent the line from rubbing,run water traps between your tank and valves to help prevent moisture in the valves,and run a trap between your compressor to tank line on the tank itself to prevent any moisture from the compressor line getting in to the tank.
Damn, I was gonna let it go but I can't. OK Hooligan, my turn to pee. I didn't say air bags are not accepted or traditional. I don't shun air bags as I have cars with them that i installed. I did not debate air vs. hydraulics nor did I date them or ask for proof. I can read scanned articles from 1958 but you cannot read threads posted in 2010. Mine specifically you do not get. I simply pointed him in the direction of a forum that is more applicable to his question and need. But I'm the hard headed one. So relax, I was trying to point him in the right direction, not prove how gifted I am at answering questions.
I wasn't trying to jump down your throat. I was just stating in my own way that pretty much none of us running air on our rides care what anyone says anymore about it here,because we get that some will accept it,and some won't,but there's more than enough people willing to give him the info here that he's looking for so he doesn't need to go to another forum. I've helped design enough air ride systems and helped enough people correct their work that I pretty much can answer most questions.
so the answer you just gave can stop there. it's just the hard headed one's that can't read articles scanned from magazine dated back to 1958 that don't get it. Your words to me sounded a little throat jumpy since they were directed at me, and not at answering Stans question. Subtle, but jumpy. Anyhow, no skin off my knuckles and Stan is getting the help he needs which I believe was all of our intentions....
Ok guys, thanks for clearing up all misconceptions. On point: Embers, Thanks for the info. Considering that I am not running a thousand electronics only the basic stock setup with the compressors added, I think the 100amp should be sufficient with a new decent battery as Hooligan has mentioned. I hope so at least. Wouldn't 130 amps be over kill for my application?
yes it would be. 100 amp should be fine. you really wanna look for a battery with the the highest CCA and mAh rating you can find that will fit in your tray. i'm a BIG fan of interstate deep cycle batteries if they are availably in your area.
i think it was under control if you read through the posts. Please stop bringing it up in this thread. I do not want the thread to get deleted, As I would like to keep the info around for mine as well as other's reference.
It's because emotion can't be related through words typed on the internet. Besides,traditional is all in the era you're building your car to be like,and it looks as if Stan and I are in the same boat with '63's,so by that time there were a few cars on air.
The Jalopy Journal
