RE vintagehotrods: "panels were all atttached with replacable christmas tree fasteners". What kind of fastener might that be?
Rather than the ones that just push through the panel these can be turned into the panel from the back side. so they are replaceable if you need to remove the panel and break one. or this one You can find them here plus lots of other different ones too: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/GM_Trim_Panel_Retainer_White_Nylon_p/a13461.htm http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Door_Trim_Panel_Fastener_Ford_p/a11863.htm
Any idea on what to use for fasteners when the space behind the panel is small ? Those Christmas tree fasteners and the wire ones appear to need some room. When I say a small space I mean 1/2" or less. The rear panel of my RPU will need to be attached to a flange barely 1/2" out from the sheetmetal at the back of the tub. <!-- / message -->
Look through this website, it looks like they have shorter ones too. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Door_Trim_Panel_Clips_Retainers_s/268.htm This one is just 5/8" long, it might work for you. Click the link below for the specs. If it is too long you could shorten it and reshape the end to a point on a grinder. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Door_Panel_Retainer_Amc_GM_Chrysler_p/a11349.htm
The Xmas tree fastener grabs at each of the rings around it. Just trim it as short as you need it (while leaving enough for one of those rings to grab the hole).
Larry the metal ones come in different sizes as well. The one I am using stick out about 7/8" from the back of the panel so probably about 3/4" behind the panel. Still too deep but you may find some shorter ones. The plastic ones seem to be a one time use thing so if you are trial fitting they can get wrecked where as with the metal ones the panel can be put on and taken off over and over again. Go see the girls at AMP just off the Yellowhead around 124 st. They have samples you can see or the catalogues that have all the dimensions of the various clips. There are tons of different sizes.
I used to get free ABS from movie companies where it became too scuffed to use as floor cover. It would warp and nearly melt in the summer heat here. Direct sun is just too much. Many locations could just be fine, but it is a consideration as to where it can be used safely. It takes a pretty good machine to stitch through 1/8 but can be done if too much material is avoided. Looking for some textured black for a current car. Most local applications go to the white. Good Luck: Fred A
I didn't read all of the posts, but felt compelled to say something about glue for ABS. You can find ABS glue at any plumbing supply or hardware store , it's the same stuff used for ABS pipe, same thing goes for PVC. .......................Jack
Not sure if this is what you intended to mean, so to clarify... ABS glue and PVC glue are NOT interchangeable. You must use the correct glue for the material you're working with.
XXL, thats exactly what I meant to say. ABS for ABS and PVC for PVC no special,exotic or expensive glues required. ...........................Jack
You could also use those chrome Phillips upholstery screws with the fancy washer. They screw thru the front of the panel. Looks kind of old school. Ago
That isn't accurate info, in other words you are wrong ! It's true that there are specific glues for each type of plastic however there is also this. You can glue ABS to PVC and you can also use this glue on both ABS and PVC pipe. It works fine and I have used it many times even though it is meant for transitions from one type of plastic to the other, it works on both. http://www.oatey.com/products/plast...ty-cements/abs-to-pvc-transition-green-cement
HOT TIP: Need to bend ABS or PVC ? Heat it on your gas barbeque grill first. Once it's nice and toasty, bend it to the shape you want, then let it cool. Of course, leave the lid up !
I used ABS plastic im my convertible, it is very easy to use, cuts with a jig saw. I got the idea from seeing Rod Doors products. They had a very nice product, but they are not in business anymore. I would have used Rod Doors, but their products were designed more for early Fords and Chevies, and just too small for my big Olds. Anyway don't be afraid of using it, you will like it
Great thread going here. I was just getting ready to buy some ABS sheet from a local supplier in Fort Collins. I was thinking of buying .093, but it seems like .125 is most often used . I'll be making panels for doors, behind the doors and the trunk. Is .093 too thin? My body is fiberglass, and has no provisions for attaching panels, anywhere, except the doors. There are places where I've thought about bonding 1-1/2" x 1/16" thick aluminum angle to the floor, then drilling holes for clips, where needed. Other places may require wood as an attachment point. I noticed the mention of using bedliner (spray-on?) on the interior. I've already filled my A-pillars and an area above the window opening, with fiberglass, so it could be painted, rather than upholstered. I may even cover a large part of the headiner area with 3/4" heat formable core foam and fiberglass over that, so it could be painted, rather than upholstered. To do that I suspect that I'd use a rotisserie and turn the body upside down do the work.
I suppose you could heat it up with a cutting torch ,too, but that's ALSO not a very good idea. A heat gun is under $25, way safe, way easier to distribute heat and much easier to direct that heat where you want it.
I don't have experience with that, but 0.093=3/32 and that seems to me to be pretty floppy. I'd go with the thicker material, if you can. I got mine fro a local sign shop. I think they overcharged me a bit, but I needed it and they were the closest-I could have spent more in time and gas getting it somewhere else.
This is what I used-I got a 4x8 sheet from a sign shop-about $50 and I overpaid a bit-a couple of years ago. There are lots of Google threads on forming-usually with a heat gun, as well as investigations into the best adhesive (I used Super Glue and caulked the seams). This board allowed me to match the change in the back of my A coupe from the 90 degree corner at the lower half of the back cab and then blend it into the curved corner that exists in the upper portion of the cab corner. I think it came out really well and I really haven't seen too many, if any Model A coupes that made this smooth transition. http://www.sintrapvc.com/
About ten years. Did behind the seat as well but don't have any pics. Sold it last summer. Gets hot here (Virginia) but not Arizona hot. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
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