MJ....Rod doors used 3m velcro and I've heard others used that too. Why didn't you use it? Would you NOT recommend it? I like it because it seems super easy to use.
On a flat surface the snaps work well but if there are any curves and most doors have them both directions, it works better to use the panel clips. I like the plastic ones with a Christmas tree type stud. 3m is a great company but I just have not had the luck with the self adhesive glues holding in the heat of the summer. It is much harder to fix later if you have to go to clips.
I agree. My experience with velcro is that it looses it's hold in the heat. Even the Industrial Strength version seems to loose it after a short time in the heat. Screws or clips are usually my best friend when installing door panels.
once again nothing but GOOD info on the H.A.M.B, i used abs years ago-'cause i couldn't afford Rod Doors.you can use the spring type clips if you 'back'em with scrap pieces of abs glued over em{to hold em} i just used em on the corners, fabric rollers can be made out of old paint rollers-2 different sizes with thin 'fuzzies' or covered W/ a piece of P.V.C pipe- just pess hard to mate the fabric & glue. small seam roller -metal wheel [large washer mounted on a 1x1 wooden dowel W/screw] used to get in seams or edges--i did this 'cause i'm a cheap bastrd & i like making stuff for maybe no reason other than saving a dollar----chuck
I know this is an old thread, but great info. Mel, it appears that you used one piece of ABS for front doors. Was it for lack of original upper pieces, or your preference? How has that worked out? I am making door panels for my 40 now and considered that but am using tempered 1/8th masonite [hardboard] which would probably not work well for all one piece. Might change to ABS if that worked well. I have never liked the seam there on stock 40 interiors.
No I had the metal pieces that surround the door tops, I just wanted to try to do the panels in one piece and omit those seams you were talking about. It worked well.
used this on my '50... great stuff, just make sure you use the correct thickness so you don't have clearance issues under moldings, handles. etc. Used 3m glue worked great, just let it set up like the directions say.............worked great for the back window tray and panel behind back seat
What are yall useing to hold the door panels to the doors? I will be useing abs plastic. Do you use the steel clips or the plastic clips? What do they look like? I will be makeing model a door panels
this was my first interior job and ill offer this oppinion, Dont buy the abs if its coiled in a roll. I got my abs from a buddies left overs that he bought from rod doors. My vinyl all came out great , but for the life of me I couldnt get the abs door panels to lie flat again. (plus it took a chunk out of my thumb when it uncoiled on me I tried the hair drier, I tried the heat gun, I even left it unrolled on the kitchen floor for a day while the dog slept on it. You can see how the door panels are bowed under tension: the vinyl looks fine there, but when you mount it to the door , it puckers the pleates The abs was nice, just be sure to buy it in flat sheets. jeff
I use the 1/8” and don't think it could be rolled. I have used both metal and plastic. The plastic is usually a one time thing. It has a real small head height compared to the metal. Au-ve-co # 12731 metal Au-ve-c0 # 9361 I use plastic fasteners when going into wood like a Model A would have. Just drill a 1/4” hole and they hold fine.
Thanks for the Help MJ40's, with the metal clips what size board do i USE? I did my carpet, now we are going for rest of the car.In my pictures I am posting is this what you are calling abs? I rolls just dont force it to much it breaks How do I hold this up in my car for my headliner. My car has a cage and a full sliding ragtop, so it does not have much headliner. I can expoy so wood up there to hold it. Any ideals will be much appreciated. I was thinking abs, then some foam over that and then vinyle or headlner material?
Has anyone thought to use sheets of FRP or Fiberglass Reinforced Panel for door panels? I know that Lowes Home improvement and Home Depot have the stuff for around 20-30 bucks per sheet. Havent bought some in a while so im not sure of the price now. Its easy enough to cut and trim with a dremel or cut off wheel.
I use the 1/8" for all panels and all types of clips. ABS can almost bend into and will only break if it is scored with a knife first. The stuff your using don't look like ABS. Wood will be a good base to attach the headliner to. You can either use screws with a trim washer or use the plastic fastners and cover it with your vinyl.
Could not find abs at my local shop, bought .125 PVC, works great with a heat gun without it not so good will eventually break , got some stuff mocked up and I had someone do all my sewing, here's the panels not glued yet , I will have to use alot of push. Fasteners because the stuffs a little wavy when heated Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
buddy of mine uses the abs and stitches right thru it and uses vinyl top adhesive only when glueing. Heat not a problem with this stuff!
He must be using the 1/16" panel to sew through. 1/8" would be ruff on any machine plus your material.
PCV is UV and ozone susceptible. ABS is not so much. So I worry about the tub surround plastic and the like. I don't like redoing stuff. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Lets see, the ABS in my F100 has been there for about 10 years, it should be falling apart daily. I must have gotten a better grade, because I just removed a door panel and it's holding up fine.
Not true at all. If that were true there would be thousands of Japanese motorcycles and BMW motorcycles as well as many others that would be falling apart. ABS fairings and fenders used on motorcycles hold up very well and I've seen lots of old bikes in great condition.
I buy 1/8" ABS textured one side that is good for vacuum forming. I make fender extenders for motorcycles from it. It's a good quality ABS and would be fine for interior panels also.
As for the guy who had his for 10 years... Congrats. I can only give my 2 cents, and after manufacturing plastics for 25 years I wouldn't use it. There are better materials. __________________ I also was only giving my two cents, I just want those considering it to know my actual experience.
I used 1/8" white PVC in my interior of my Deuce roadster that I built 13 years ago. I could have used 1/16" ABS but I needed more structural rigidity for what I wanted to do with it. The entire surround from the back of each door around the back was done in one large panel which was covered with 1/4" foam and naugahyde which was glued with 3M contact cement sprayed from a regular spray gun. It was also sewn through the ABS to make a stitching pattern around the entire panel. This was also done on the door panels and kick panels. The panels were all atttached with replacable christmas tree fasteners. This car was driven hard for over 50,000 miles in all types of weather from South Dakota winters down to 10 degrees to the Mojave desert at 115 degrees. The interior was in great shape with no problems whatsoever when I sold it last December. I've seen either material used with no problems.
Seems like there are different grades and thicknesses of plastic suitable for door panels. Vibration, heat, ozone, etc resistance is needed, along with some flexibility & thermal molding capability. Anyone know what a good grade would be and where to get it? I've had bad luck with cheap Home Depot plastic in other projects, it got weak and shattered in a year or two and I went to thin plywood. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Look for an Industrial Plastics supplier-distributor. They will have any kind of plastic with the properties you need.
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