The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ritzy1, May 27, 2016.
Did you ever get the sway bar figured out? Which hole on the perch bolt do you have facing forward?
Kind of kicked that can down the road. While attending a Goodguys event in Phoenix, I spoke to Ridetech about it and they recommended a company called Speedway Engineering. I think their stuff, or something similar, is what I will end up using. The sway bar will eventually attach to the front hole of the perch bolt.
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Definitely the right decision to do a simple patch job on the floors and get some shake down miles on it. Car looks great.
Been a while since I've posted any updates, so here goes . . .
Decided I'd try to get the inner door panels off to replace the anti-rattlers. It was a challenge getting to the pins that hold the handles on, but a couple of thread searches on Ford-specific forums helped me find the solution. Found that some previous owner had used a nail as a replacement for one of the pins, and that added to the removal fun. Ended up getting 6 replacement escutcheons and pins from Joe's Antique Auto. Also, found that one of the window cranks was non-stock. Will need to get new matching ones.
The original sound deadening looks like it will be fun to remove too . . .
Will be rebuilding all of the door hardware and replacing the glass. Reinstalling the staples that secure the anti-rattlers will be a challenge, and in the essence of time last week, I decided to do that once the car's back home. Put the garnish molding back in place for the ride back.
Here's a shot of the floorboard area with the new seals in place and the under-floor wiring and MC remote-fill lines secured in place.
I got fed up with trying to get Velcro to stick to the original firewall insulation and replaced it with Insul-Tek from Juliano's. Got some tabs from Lowe's that worked perfect to secure it to the firewall through the original holes. Now the Velcro I'm using to hold the Dakota Digital gauge controller and the rest of the electronics actually stays in place! On the floorboard itself, I used Noico 80 mil sound deadening I got from Amazon and ended up covering the entire floor with the Insul-Tek. Happy with the result.
Forgot to take a picture with the new front floor mat and rear carpet installed before I reinstalled the front seat.
Got far enough along so that it moves under it's own power and stops. Time to move it back to Boston so it's easier for me to finish all of the little things that are preventing me from actually driving it . . .
OK, time for another update. Got it back to Boston and dropped it at Freeman's Garage (https://americanboyracer.com/) to have them sort out the issue with the engine running poorly. They found that their were two open vacuum ports in the intake that I missed. Once they found that, they were able to properly set the idle screws, etc. They ended up putting my .041 jets back in and changed to #69 power valves. Now it finally runs like it should!
Got it registered and was able to drive it home from the garage!
Next up was tailpipes and muffler hangers. Turned out that due to the way I had to plumb the rear brakes, there was no way to run tailpipes to the back bumper like I wanted. The next best option was subtle side exits in front of the rear wheels. They still had to make a lot of bends to get that to work, but I am happy with the way it came out. I really like the sound of the Flowmaster 50 Series mufflers. They are quiet at idle and at a constant RPM, but when you step on it, they get quite a bit louder. Just what I wanted.
Here are a few shots of how I plumbed the rear brakes and how the shop plumbed the exhaust . . .
Finished the exhaust at 5, ran to pick up my wife and drove to the bi-weekly cruise at Bass Pro Shop in Foxboro, MA. There were easily 500 cars there. We got some nice comments about the car, even though it's still incomplete.
Why didn’t you use the Explorer rearend? I’ve got a disc/posi 8.8 out of a 1998 Explorer I was considering using in a ‘48.
My dad put a 98 Mountaineer 8.8 in his 41 ford. fit great.
Where did you get the electric fan and shroud? I want one like that for my 41 ford.
Matt, got it from Cooling Components (http://coolingcomponentsinc.us.com/portal/application-chart/). I used their single speed CI-1670. Works awesome so far with 185 degree thermostat control.
I just didn't like the offset center section, so opted for the centered 8.8 from a Mustang GT.
But otherwise the width was okay? I’m weighing my options, I have a 1957 Ford 9” which would been sweet but it’s missing the drums and has a 3.00 open diff, so the complete 8.8” seems like a better option.
Thanks for the heads up, I’m strongly considering using it.
Plenty of people use those, I'm sure you'll be fine. As I noted earlier in the thread, I opted for custom backspaced wheels to get the look I was after. Plumbing the 4 wheel disk brakes really challenged me.
Finally got back to work on this thing. Since the weather was in the 60's this weekend I decided I'd replace the door locks, latch springs, dovetails and other door hardware that needed attention.
The spring in the inside door handle proved to be the biggest challenge to replace. To get at it I needed to bend back the 4 tabs that hold the top and bottom components together.
Cleaned up the components and wrestled the new spring into place while putting the two plates back together. The next challenge was to peen the four tabs back over while making sure the two plates were parallel so there was no binding of the mechanism. That took a few attempts to get it right. A little grease for lubrication, and I called it good.
Next up was the two springs in the door latch. When I removed it from the door I immediately noticed that the upper spring was broken. That could be why I had a droopy door handle. Soaked the latch overnight in parts cleaner while hoping that replacing the two springs in the latch would be easier than the last one. The biggest challenge with these is to get the latch situated against something solid to allow you wield the hammer and punch to open the tabs that hold the springs in place. It took some wrestling with needle nose pliers to get the old ones out and the new ones in. The upper one took two attempts to get the placement right. If you're doing this job, make sure you put the door handle in the latch before reinstalling it in the door to make sure it's working as it should. A little lubrication and I called it good.
Once I had everything reinstalled in the door it all seemed to work much better than before. The handle still droops a bit, but I'm betting that's due to wear in the square hole that the door handle shaft goes into the latch and wear in the slot the mechanism slides back and forth on. That's it for the driver's side. Next up, passenger side.
Still finding mud dauber nests. No clue how they got inside the door!
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