Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects A tale of two cities 1948 Ford build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ritzy1, May 27, 2016.

  1. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,546

    topher5150
    Member

    Did you ever get the sway bar figured out? Which hole on the perch bolt do you have facing forward?
     
  2. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Kind of kicked that can down the road. While attending a Goodguys event in Phoenix, I spoke to Ridetech about it and they recommended a company called Speedway Engineering. I think their stuff, or something similar, is what I will end up using. The sway bar will eventually attach to the front hole of the perch bolt.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  3. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,576

    gonzo
    Member

    Definitely the right decision to do a simple patch job on the floors and get some shake down miles on it. Car looks great.
     
    Thor1 and Ritzy1 like this.
  4. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Been a while since I've posted any updates, so here goes . . .

    Decided I'd try to get the inner door panels off to replace the anti-rattlers. It was a challenge getting to the pins that hold the handles on, but a couple of thread searches on Ford-specific forums helped me find the solution. Found that some previous owner had used a nail as a replacement for one of the pins, and that added to the removal fun. Ended up getting 6 replacement escutcheons and pins from Joe's Antique Auto. Also, found that one of the window cranks was non-stock. Will need to get new matching ones.

    20190622_094311.jpg

    The original sound deadening looks like it will be fun to remove too . . .

    20190623_170341.jpg

    Will be rebuilding all of the door hardware and replacing the glass. Reinstalling the staples that secure the anti-rattlers will be a challenge, and in the essence of time last week, I decided to do that once the car's back home. Put the garnish molding back in place for the ride back.

    Here's a shot of the floorboard area with the new seals in place and the under-floor wiring and MC remote-fill lines secured in place.

    20190630_082552.jpg

    I got fed up with trying to get Velcro to stick to the original firewall insulation and replaced it with Insul-Tek from Juliano's. Got some tabs from Lowe's that worked perfect to secure it to the firewall through the original holes. Now the Velcro I'm using to hold the Dakota Digital gauge controller and the rest of the electronics actually stays in place! On the floorboard itself, I used Noico 80 mil sound deadening I got from Amazon and ended up covering the entire floor with the Insul-Tek. Happy with the result.

    20190703_143046.jpg 20190703_152152.jpg

    Forgot to take a picture with the new front floor mat and rear carpet installed before I reinstalled the front seat.
     
  5. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Got far enough along so that it moves under it's own power and stops. Time to move it back to Boston so it's easier for me to finish all of the little things that are preventing me from actually driving it . . .

    20190703_210048.jpg
     
    gonzo, Thor1, Blues4U and 4 others like this.
  6. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    OK, time for another update. Got it back to Boston and dropped it at Freeman's Garage (https://americanboyracer.com/) to have them sort out the issue with the engine running poorly. They found that their were two open vacuum ports in the intake that I missed. Once they found that, they were able to properly set the idle screws, etc. They ended up putting my .041 jets back in and changed to #69 power valves. Now it finally runs like it should!

    Got it registered and was able to drive it home from the garage!

    Back home.jpg
     
    Thor1, spurgeonforge and Hombre like this.
  7. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Next up was tailpipes and muffler hangers. Turned out that due to the way I had to plumb the rear brakes, there was no way to run tailpipes to the back bumper like I wanted. The next best option was subtle side exits in front of the rear wheels. They still had to make a lot of bends to get that to work, but I am happy with the way it came out. I really like the sound of the Flowmaster 50 Series mufflers. They are quiet at idle and at a constant RPM, but when you step on it, they get quite a bit louder. Just what I wanted.

    Here are a few shots of how I plumbed the rear brakes and how the shop plumbed the exhaust . . .

    20190720_100620.jpg 20190720_153149.jpg 20190720_100440.jpg 20190720_101226.jpg

    Finished the exhaust at 5, ran to pick up my wife and drove to the bi-weekly cruise at Bass Pro Shop in Foxboro, MA. There were easily 500 cars there. We got some nice comments about the car, even though it's still incomplete.

    66585263_10157090148712559_2978465205941436416_n.jpg
     
    Thor1, spurgeonforge and Hombre like this.
  8. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,153

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    Very nice!

    Why didn’t you use the Explorer rearend? I’ve got a disc/posi 8.8 out of a 1998 Explorer I was considering using in a ‘48.
     
  9. 46fatford
    Joined: Jul 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,038

    46fatford
    Member

    My dad put a 98 Mountaineer 8.8 in his 41 ford. fit great.
     
  10. 46fatford
    Joined: Jul 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,038

    46fatford
    Member

    Where did you get the electric fan and shroud? I want one like that for my 41 ford.
    Thanks
    Matt
     
  11. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Matt, got it from Cooling Components (http://coolingcomponentsinc.us.com/portal/application-chart/). I used their single speed CI-1670. Works awesome so far with 185 degree thermostat control.
     
  12. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    I just didn't like the offset center section, so opted for the centered 8.8 from a Mustang GT.
     
  13. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,153

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    But otherwise the width was okay? I’m weighing my options, I have a 1957 Ford 9” which would been sweet but it’s missing the drums and has a 3.00 open diff, so the complete 8.8” seems like a better option.
     
  14. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,153

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    Thanks for the heads up, I’m strongly considering using it.
     
  15. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Plenty of people use those, I'm sure you'll be fine. As I noted earlier in the thread, I opted for custom backspaced wheels to get the look I was after. Plumbing the 4 wheel disk brakes really challenged me.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.