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Projects A tale of two cities 1948 Ford build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ritzy1, May 27, 2016.

  1. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    A little more assembly over the weekend. Installed the new oil pickup, oil pan, clutch/pressure plate, starter, Tardel timing pointer, plug wires and fabricated the supply and return lines for the oil filter. Torquing the head bolt under the filter will be a challenge.

    Found, as others have, that the weights on the pressure plate interfere with the Speedway T-5 adapter. I'll see if the machine shop can remove the interference. Certainly not an adapter I'd recommend to anyone.
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    warhorseracing likes this.
  2. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    36729929_249764402494924_6109059145644638208_o.jpg 36692988_249765249161506_8909927492551180288_o.jpg 36712469_249765282494836_8400854832956571648_o.jpg These pictures exemplify the phrase "don't tell me about the labor pain, just show me the baby!" OK, the motor's back in the car, but it didn't go quietly. I've still got a couple of issues with the driver's side Fenton exhaust manifold. It is interfering with the steering box and preventing me from getting the bolts in the trans mount. There is also a bolt in the bottom rear that does not have enough clearance to go in the hole. I'll need to remove the offending manifold and get after it with a grinder with the hope that I can gain back the required clearances, then re-paint it to look pretty (not sure why I'm worried about that paint since I'm not worried about the paint on the rest of the car). Hope the casting is thick enough.

    Enough for this trip, back to Boston . . .

    View attachment 3958687
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2018
  3. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 7,852

    manyolcars

    My 39 Ford had a copper line for gas and the filter would get stopped up on a regular basis. It was a very fine copper dust. I have stopped on the side of the road many times and took the filter off to blow backwards thru it so I could get home. I replaced it with 3/8 stainless.
    I have read many times that copper will work harden and break
     
  4. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Made a little more progress this week. Radiator and electric fan installed. Also hooked up all the Dakota Digital senders. Having the car 3 hours away is really killing me.

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  5. hfh
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 221

    hfh
    Member
    from Western MA

    Thanks for sharing all the details of your project. That's a beautiful flathead, both inside and outside. I'm sure you will really enjoy driving it when it's finished. It's been fun to follow along as you progress.
     
    Ritzy1 likes this.
  6. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,576

    gonzo
    Member

    That's going to be a fun car, great work. Will we be seeing it at the Ty Rods show?
     
  7. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Would love to have it there, but it seems to be taking a lot longer than I'd hoped. We'll see. Still seems like the list is long . . .
     
  8. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 3,811

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Shame to put that electric fan and shroud in that car....
     
  9. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Some of the labor pain that I forgot to mention earlier . . . the Speedway adapter interfered with the weights on their "recommended" pressure plate , so I had to have the machine shop mill the offending ridge off. Still holding my breath to see if the linkage mates up correctly . . .
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    warhorseracing likes this.
  10. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Another delivery from Red's last week with headers and matching head pipes. I gave up on the Fentons. They weren't going to fit. I rotated the clamp 180 degrees on the bottom of the steering column, and the new headers have plenty of space now. Anybody want to buy an unused set of Fentons?

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  11. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Oh, and I finally worked up the nerve to rip off the Band-Aid (galvanized sheeting) that was pop riveted to the floor . . . it was worse than I could see from below. Guess I'll need to address that before it'll pass inspection. Damn, I was hoping to kick that can down the road . . .

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  12. ROT!:( Rust:mad:. I know the feeling and feel your pain. While my 51 floors didn't look that bad the wiring now has me sidelined.:oops:
     
  13. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,551

    topher5150
    Member

  14. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Finally got far enough along to fire the engine. I was amazed that it started on the first turn of the key! Only took 4-1/2 years!

    Message screen on gauges was initially flashing no oil pressure, so I shut it right down. After I re-fired it I noticed that the oil pressure gauge was reading decent oil pressure (50-60 lbs. @ 2,500 RPM), so maybe it was just something with the warning set-up. I also need to adjust the back-lighting as the gauges were hard to read.

    Had to chase a bunch of water leaks due to inferior "original style" radiator hose clamps and one of the Dakota Digital temp sender adapters (I apparently omitted a washer). The oil filter was also leaking around the top, so had to resolve that as well (there is quite a bit of pressure in there).

    Tried to run it at 2,500 RPM for 15-20 minutes per Isky's recommendation, but it was showing way too hot, so I had to shut it down. I'll need to sort that out next. The electric fan did kick on when it got to the switch temp, so that worked right. I think I'll take out the thermostats and see how it does.

    The other issue is the electric fuel pump is way too noisy! Ordered a different Airtex version that is supposed to be quiet . . . we'll see.

    I'll post a video when I figure out how to do that . . . let's see if this works:

    .
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2018
    gonzo likes this.
  15. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    A little more of the process . . . was trying to use an original style T-5 shifter with a Lokar adapter. Well, the Lokar adapter does not fit my T-5, of course. I had 1945 Speed and Custom mate the bottom of the original shifter to Lokar's adapter to make it work. Then, when I was putting it back together, I noticed one of the thin shims was cracked through. When I tried to peen over the 3 tabs that hold the top of the shifter to the bottom, one of them snapped off. So much for using the original! More $ down the drain!

    Opted for the Hurst Blackjack shifter for this trans. Of course, the Lokar lever would not quite match up, but I was able to make it work with some longer bolts and nylock nuts. Then, I found that the double bend lever I bought contacted the dash in 1st, 3rd and 5th. Had to order the single bend version to make it right. It's only money!

    Lokar shift adapter vs original.jpg 20180728_134708.jpg 20180728_134849.jpg 20180728_134905.jpg 20180922_113846.jpg
     
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  16. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Here's some pics of the engine compartment ready-to-run. Saw those linkage bullets on Stromberg's site and had to have them to replace the ugly ends that came with the Speedway linkage. Was able to find a threaded rod at McMaster-Carr that worked to link the pedal to the carb.

    Replaced the noisy electric pump I had originally gotten from Little Dearborn ($75) with an Airtex E8016S ($32). Can't even hear the new one running. Also replaced the Mr. Gasket plastic glass filter at the carb for a metal version from Dorman (55241).

    Still chasing small oil and water leaks after another couple of re-starts. Ordered some SS T-bolt clamps from HPS Performance Silicone Hoses that I hope will resolve the radiator hose leaks once and for all.

    I put the original .045 jets back in as I learned that running lean may contribute to it running hot. Also pulled the thermostats back out. Still seems to run hot sitting in the garage at 2,500 rpm. Laser temp gauge does show a higher temp at the top of the radiator than at the bottom. Timing light did show distributor was advancing with increased RPM. Will need to investigate temp further.

    Vacuum gauge showed 16-17 in., so that should be what I need for the power brakes.

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    Last edited: Sep 24, 2018
  17. IRONBUTTJOHN
    Joined: Feb 11, 2009
    Posts: 16

    IRONBUTTJOHN
    Member
    from wagram, nc

    I have a Built Flathead in my '48 coupe that had heating problems. I put washers in the place the thermostats go and restricted the flow. That slowed the flow down and gave the radiator time to cool the water. Tried several deferent size washers until I got the right restriction. After 12 years of use it still works. I can drive it on the open road and around town without heating problems.
     
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  18. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Yup, another thing I'm agonizing over. I tested the thermostats and they both seemed to open at the temperature they should. I put them back in, but haven't been able to re-fire it. There seems to be evidence of the spark going through the center of the rotor to the distributor shaft instead of out to the end as it should. Got a new US-made rotor and cap from NAPA but haven't had a chance to install them. Also need to take the ballast resistor out of the ignition circuit as that may be contributing to the no-start issue.
     
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  19. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Was finally able to get my new motor re-fired. Installed the new cap and rotor, tightened spark plug gap to .025 and bypassed the ballast resistor I had originally wired in. Fired right up!

    Adjusted the idle and let it idle for 10-15 minutes to check for leaks and vitals. It never got hot enough to turn on the electric fan (185)! Yes, I had put the 180 thermostats back in that I had previously removed, and it was only about 45 degrees, but seemed like the original issue with running hot is cured. Steam was coming out of the radiator cap, so the thermostats seemed to be open.

    Sounds like a flathead should, I think . . .

     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2019
  20. topher5150
    Joined: Feb 10, 2017
    Posts: 1,551

    topher5150
    Member

    computer speakers don't do it any justice
    where did you get the speedo and clock?
     
  21. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Dakota Digital. See post # 39 of this thread.
     
  22. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,576

    gonzo
    Member

    Looking good @Ritzy1 do you have a link to where you got that shifter handle? It looks like it'd work nicely in my sedan.
     
  23. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    gonzo likes this.
  24. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,576

    gonzo
    Member

    Right on thanks.
     
  25. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Tried to re-install the stock sway bar but the link ends are right up against the shock. That won't work. Let's see what Dale at Weedetr has for a solution . . .

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  26. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    FINALLY! Was able to get it into 1945 Speed and Custom this week to get the finish welding done on the rear axle and shock mounts. Jeremy Baye said he didn't need to make too many adjustments to what I had done before welding it up. Great service . . . he came and picked it up and dropped it back off. He talked me into an aluminum driveshaft . . . I about choked on that bill!

    Now it's up to me to finish the brakes and get it on the road.

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  27. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    So, after much reflection on what to do about my floors. In the interest of getting the thing on the road, and to save some $, I decided to build some patch panels myself, apply some seam sealer, and screw them to the floor using short screws with an extra wide head. This winter, it'll go back to 1945 Speed and Custom to have the bad sections replaced. For the initial shake-down season, and since it'll be hidden under the mat, it'll do.

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  28. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Once I had all of the new clutch linkage re-installed, the clutch did not feel right. I had it up on jack stands and the wheels would turn, so I just figured it would be OK. Of course, once I put it on the ground, I found that to be untrue.

    The clutch linkage adjusting rod was not long enough to provide the travel required to engage the clutch. Finally after a lot of head scratching, a suggestion was made to get the original for comparison. Sure enough, the original was way longer than the new replacement. The new was swapped for the old, and adjusted for free-play, and finally, the car could move on it's own!

    As you can see from the before and after pictures, for some reason, the alignment was a bit off. I ended up disassembling the entire linkage again, used some heat to put a couple of bends in the equalizer shaft for proper alignment. The elongated hole for the pin in the original adjusting rod was welded up and re-drilled to size. Now, we were good-to-go. Can't believe how much went into finding NOS parts for the entire linkage and making it all play nice with the T-5 bell housing.

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  29. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 243

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Was finally able to drive it under it's own power from the barn to the main house where the lift is. Now, to finish up the brake plumbing . . .

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  30. T&A Flathead
    Joined: Apr 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,644

    T&A Flathead
    Member

    Nice job.
     
    Ritzy1 likes this.

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