Projects A tale of two cities 1948 Ford build

I'm sure he could build you another one. I actually owe him some measurements so he can offer it as one of his standard offerings. I had him build it without the hole for the trans. mount so I could adjust as needed. Once I got the piece, I moved the engine/trans as far forward as I could then drilled the single hole for the trans mount. That gave me enough clearance so I didn't need to do any grinding of the x member on the bottom and gave me enough room for a hole in the floor for the shifter without cutting into the under-floor support.

As far as the difference between the 35-40 part, he'd be the one to tell you that.

 

Finally got the WEEDETR front shock kit installed. Had to reverse the radius rod/axle/shock mounts from the original instructions due to the narrower-than-stock front axle. The instructions say to do that on a '41. The clearances are still a bit tight in a couple of spots, but I think they'll work. Now, I need to figure out how to attach the sway bar to the mount, but I'm sure WEEDETR will have a solution for me.

 

are you still able to use the sway bar with that setup?

 

That is my goal! I also want to use the original sway bar, with some modifications. WEEDETR has a sway bar kit to go with this shock mount.

 

Looking good so far......
Where did you source your perch bolts from -shown in the second photo down in post 23?
I may need a pair for my 48 Mordor

 

WEEDETR: https://www.weedetrstreetrod.com/

 

Always liked that phrase"Running when parked". And"rust free".Maybe talking about the stainless trim pieces?
Goode luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Thanks for that info Ritzyl. I will investigate.
Hope you and yours have a great festive season..

Ash

 

Been working to install the Painless wiring harness again this week. Wiring is a lot of tedious work! Also got my new Dakota Digital gauge package. I saw the prototype on a car done by Straight Line Customs. I sent Dakota pictures of the originals and asked them to duplicate the look on their standard kit.

Here's some side-by-side pictures of the originals and the Dakota versions and of them test fit in the dash with the chrome trim.

 

Finished wiring and plumbing the electric fuel pump, line and regulator. Integrated an oil pressure switch into the relay wiring as a safety feature I saw on this site: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html. Hope it works! All of the exposed wiring will be covered with Painless ClassicBraid.

 

Made some more progress this week. Got to put in about 50 hours on it . . .

Gauges hooked up in demo mode:



Under-hood wiring roughed in:



Lokar emergency brake cables:



Under-dash wiring roughed in:

 

Oh, and the LED tail lights and parking lights work great and are nice and bright . . .

 

I've always thought cu tube for fuel is a no-no, however the metal stamping presses I work on use it for lube lines and they pound away all day long. Rarely bust a line.

Sent from my LG-TP450 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

CU tube? Is that copper? I assumed that was what the original line was made of. I just ordered replacement line from Mac's and that's what I got.

 

Ah, maybe it's just the pic.

Sent from my LG-TP450 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Cu is no good when used with acetylene, Terrible. I am not sure if this transfers to gasoline in anyway however.

Great progress Ritzy! I have subscribed to this! Hopefully I can use your build to make my own easier!

 

Snow finally melted enough for me to get the engine back out of my car and dropped off at J and M Machine to start the build. Dropped it off Monday and they're already into it. They send updates and pictures as they work on it.

There were four valve seats removed from the engine as they are pitted beyond machining. Will install new ones and move forward. Removed pistons and wrist pin bushings and the part number is a 9024 VA.

 

While servicing the rods, they found they were so magnetized that the caps stuck to the rods. De-magnetized in magnaflux machine. Found that Sealed Power no longer makes correct size 9024VA rod bushings, and none of the usual sources had enough stock. Shop had to source similar from 2N/8N Ford Tractor supplier.

 

Replacement valve seats installed and machined. Block bored and re-surfaced. Waiting for new +.040 pistons, pins, rings and -.020 rod and main bearings to be delivered. Discovered that there was only one source left (Egge) for cast pistons with this configuration (bore: 3.2275, stroke: 4.00). I was hoping to go with cast 3 ring pistons but found there were none available in that combination.

Egge pistons (L991) and rings with chromoly top ring (2C533) sourced through Red's. Sealed Power main (533M 20) and full floating rod bearings (9805CA 20) sourced though Summit. Sealed Power cam bearings (1005M) sourced through Rock Auto.

 

New ring gear installed. Flywheel re-surfaced and balanced with pressure plate. .

 

Make sure to index that flywheel and clutch assembly for re-installation. if you do not the balance could be off.

 

Please explain. Haven't seen anything about indexing the flywheel.

 

Your statement above. When you picked it up from the machine shop was it assembled as in the picture? If it was then it should be marked with a, Sharpie line from the clutch flywheel pressure plate assembly before dis-assembly, then the lines mated back up to maintain the balance that was achieved by the machine shop.

 

I'd guess "indexing" the pressure plate to the flywheel is the purpose of red paint along with the two center punch marks in the picture? Hopefully the shop explained it.

 

You are correct. I thought the punch marks and the red markings were obvious in the picture.

 

Nope! Sorry. I missed that! I'm Old and so are my eyes.

 

Machine shop removed the clean-out plugs in the crank and now it'll go into the oven with my oil pan to be baked clean. Got an education on the way oil is fed to the rod bearings. This cleaning is a critical step to longevity.

 

Looking good and making progress.

 

Thanks. Finally feeling like I'll have it running this summer.

 

You will, keep plugging away. I am wanting my '51 sooner than later also, never give up.