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A 9" Qusetion

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by paintcan54, Jul 9, 2010.

  1. paintcan54
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,101

    paintcan54
    Member

    I done a search but did not find a answer to this question. How much in out and side to side movement should be in the pinion shaft at the U-Joint yoak. I'm thinking none, and if that is right, can I just unbolt the pinion bearing holder and replace the bearings and shims, or do I need to remove the whole head and repair and reset it all up again. Thanks
     
  2. kwoodyh
    Joined: Apr 11, 2006
    Posts: 641

    kwoodyh
    Member

    3d member needs to come out and have a look see at where you are at, 9" 3d members are pretty easy to come by so it might just need swapped?
     
  3. If the bearings are in good shape, and the nut is tightened for proper bearing preload, there should be no side to side or any movement in those tapered bearings. From the factory, a crush sleeve is used between the bearings. In the aftermarket world, a guy can buy a shim pack or make a spacer of tubing machined to a specific length for bearing spacing and preload.
     
  4. paintcan54
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,101

    paintcan54
    Member

    Thanks, that's what I was thinking. Guess I'll pull it out and have a rebuild on it. I tryed to tighien the piniopn nut but it was already tight and would not turn anymore with with the air impack gun should be tight enough.. Guess we'll drive the wifes truck till I get a rebuild, nice having more then one rod around.
     

  5. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    Never use an impact wrench on a pinion nut unless you hold the yoke with a pipewrench or some other thing. The rattle wrench can chip the teeth all to hell! Doesn't always happen, but not worth the risk.
     
  6. paintcan54
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,101

    paintcan54
    Member

    I had the Ford tool that bolts to the yoak, the long bar.
     
  7. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member


    You need a long braker bar instead of a impact.
     
  8. If your going to rebuild the 3rd member. Mark the bearing retainers for the left and right. Now remove each bearing retainer and remove the ring gear assembly. Now take a straight edge and lay it across the surface that the bearing retainers bolt to. Take a snap gauge and measure from the straight egde down to the rear of the pinion gear. This is the most critical measurement in the entire rear end. Record the measurment for reassembly. Now you can remove the pinion carrier and change the bearings. Just remember that when you reinstall the pinion assembly that the measurement must be the same as the original measurement as all 9" gears are cut for the pinion to run on a measurement 1/2 the diameter of the ring gear + or - a desired number from the factory. So if you duplicate the original pinion depth measurment you will be fine. I hope it's not too complicated >>>>.
     

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