Technical A 265 Chevy build with a cool story

I had thought about using the 327/350 cam but found the Howards Cam and really liked the specs better. It's a real quality piece also. The packaging itself is something to see. The price was right too, cam and lifters for $135 !! I figured I would order it and have a look at it in person and if it looked sketchy I would send it back. From strictly an appearance point of view it's very nicely machined, polished not that black parkerized coating like on most cams. It was just nice to see what the lobe surface actually looked like. We checked it with a degree wheel and everything was right on. I love the way it sounds too. Haven't gone on a proper ride yet to see how it performs. Here's a vid of it after cam break in. Timing is a bit high in this video, I was just starting to tune on it.

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Got a nice lope to it. Should move that little truck just fine ! Can't wait to hear the 265 fire for the first time.

 

Soundzz good!

 

I certainly understand the cost factor. It just seems that supply and demand is so prevalent in our hobby. You know... I got it. You want it. Here's the price! So, we end up paying a little more for something than we shud just to keep the project moving along. Now, I don't mean to imply that Egge is shafting anyone, as the other thing I've found over the years is that you generally get what you pay for when you do your homework. They are a quality company with quality products that have been around for many years, and I thot I'd bring them to your attention if you were not aware of them. Best wishes for your project. I can't wait for you to fire up that 265, either!

 

I appreciate you bringing it up Bowtie. You are right about today and supply and demand in our hobby. JE Pistons is practically in my backyard now (about 45 min.away) they are more pricey but I am sure the quality is top notch. I still have a few local hot rodders I haven't spoken to who may have something sitting on a dusty shelf I can use. There is plenty to do before I really need the pistons, so I will keep on, keepin' on !

 

I have a new questions for all the 265 gurus. My block has a tube shape in the casting that will line up under the breather tube and a similar shape that the distributor fits down through. Are only 265 blocks like this ? Front is no big deal but the rear, the way it is cast is real close to the last lifter bore. When I modify the block to accept the roller lifter dog bones, is it going to hurt anything grinding away enough of it to allow the dog bone to sit flat ? I have never seen these cast in the galley of other small blocks I worked on so I would like to know what you think. If I didn't explain it well enough, I will have to take a pic.

 

Her's a pic, man it's dirty !

 

Does anyone have an opinion/suggestion ?

 

I really can't see any differences between your 55, 265 block, and either my later block 283, or 350 4 bolt blocks, in the valley area. That's the area that is modified for the factory dog bones, roller lifters, and spider retainer plate. I'm guessing you've seen the literature to do the conversion on E-Bay. Personally, I'd go strictly with the aftermarket style of cam, roller lifters, and other valve train pieces IF i wanted a roller cam setup. I think a compromise using a solid lifter, flat tappet cam setup, good springs/retainers, and roller rockers on screw-in studs is a better way for your 265 build. The ONLY readily available pistons are rebuilder type pistons, with 4 valve reliefs, a lowered pin height and are cast; I don't know if they even make a hypereutectic piston for the 265. A forged piston will be special order ($$$$). You're going to have to deck the block for sure! You're going to have to use SMALL chamber heads for sure! Any other head is going to really drop your CR. There are Dart heads with 49 CC chambers, #601 305 heads with 53 CC chambers, or # 416 305 heads with 58 CC. 283 heads start at about 60 CC, jump to 64 cc with the performance 327's, then go to 70 CC, and finally 76 CC on the smog era 350's; you really can't use ANY of those heads unless you can find a big, domed piston. The 55-56 heads had 55.6 CC chambers to give you an idea, and with a true flat head piston with NO valve reliefs, had only 8:1 CR in 55 and 56, with the dual quad 56 265's having only 9.25:1. Finding those dual quad pistons will be almost impossible, and to find the right heads, $$$$. So, deck the block, use your stock heads fully ported and with 1.84 intake valves installed, along with new exhaust valves (so they are not worn out and "thin") to help boost the CR with the 4 valve relief pistons, and angle mill them; then you might get 9.5:1 CR, maybe 10:1 with a maximum overbore of the cylinders to increase total swept volume. It's a tiny engine, it will need a LOT of compression, and good valve train/head work to build any kind of power. Then, all the other tricks of lightening parts, balancing, controlling oil windage and such, start escalating the costs involved. Then your intake with the stock reworked heads; ANY aftermarket intake will have ports MUCH larger than even the modified 265 ports. You'll need an OLD aftermarket intake from the right years, or a modified, stock intake. The only dual quad intakes with small ports are the 56 units, the early year 56 being really small, the later 56 slightly larger. Maybe a 57 and later could be port matched with the heads, but getting a good seal might be a problem. I tried doing a 265, and spent a good bit of money to do so, only to give up. It's why I wound up going with a 283 block and crank, aftermarket rods and pistons, and will be using my 56 heads and intake. I've done a LOT of horse trading, and wheeling-and-dealing for my parts, and I'm still into the short block close to 2K, and my machinist is a personal friend. It's going to take a heavy flywheel and clutch assembly, close ratio trans, and really low gears to make your 55 work. I just stuck a 4.88 Posi third member in my Delivery, and I think I should have used the 5.13 setup I have. I'll be using an aluminum Glide with a 4500 RPM stall converter behind the 283. I'm taking a 350 HP 327 and Muncie 4-speed out of the car, and it will be slower overall when I'm done. These tri-fives weigh 3400-3600 lbs. That's putting an awful lot on a 265. Yes, it can be done, but it's going to cost, BIG. It's why I said a "mild build" on your 265, just to have a nice running engine to move the car around, without breaking the bank, or a continuous line of drivetrain parts due to high RPM shocks, is the way to go. It still honors the Grandfather. Then build the 350 with cheaper, readily available parts. You asked for opinions/suggestions, JMO, don't be offended. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

butch/56sedandelivery what are you running for an intake??

 

I actually have TWO of the EARLY 56, dual quad intakes; one of them has had the ports enlarged however, ruining it for use with my small port heads (I'd sell that one). I have several WCFB carbs to build replicas from, no way would I pay 3-4K for the correct carbs, rebuilt, and ready to go. I also have the stock, cast iron, single 4 barrel intake, and might just go with that. This is all for my 56 Sedan Delivery, Pseudo-Junior Stocker (although I am using a 283 short block and aluminum Glide trans). The intake I bought from you some time back is't for this project. I also have an early Weiand, dual quad intake that will take AFB carbs also (have that complete set up with rebuilt carbs). That intake has had all the markings ground off of it, and was polished years ago; it's dull now however. My 283, with the 265 top end, is't a radical, 7000 RPM motor; it's going to be fully streetable. I think the 265 the OP is wanting to build won't really be too streetable, at 7500 RPM, not for long anyway without a ton of money involved. I'd just hate to see his project not last too long. I know a guy that races a 55 in Super Stock, and it's an NHRA record holder, but he has a second mortgage in the motor also. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Based on all your info. and help 56sedandelivery, I am planning on something more in the 6-6,500 RPM max range. Here is the Howards roller cam I am considering: P/N 110315-10, .465 lift int. (209 @ .050), .470 lift exh. (212 @ .050), 110 LSA. Many of the windage tricks I am going to do myself. I know the Super Stock/ Stock Eliminator engines are astronomical bucks to build, I am going to try and use that thinking and do some of those that I am able to do myself or at least apply the thinking to achieve a similar advantage but at a level the average car/engine builder can achieve. After your help and alot of research, building anything much above the range of these cam specs seems to start into that MEGABUCK arena and that would only be worth it if it was a full blown drag car and that isn't what I am after.

 

bfalfa55...I think that is more in the right range...do some good head port work, that cam, etc and it will go good for a 265, I mean hell in the 80s stock eliminator Camaro/Firebird 305s the cars were going what, in the 11s and quicker? and they had to run stock quadrajet intakes etc (yes I am into Camaros along with HAMB friendly cars, so yes I will use a Camaro reference now and again - hence my username)

 

Here's my 283 with a howards 112031-08 hydraulic after some tuning.

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What about the intake I sold u

 

You are right BOSTONCAMARO. I know alot of those cars have mega bucks in the engines but I think some good numbers can be had by using some of todays technology in these little engines. I won't be close to 11's but I don't think 13's are out of the question.
F-6, that sounds good. Have you had any runs on the track to get some numbers ?

 

Thanks man. No track time, truck isn't finished. I have a feeling it's going to be faster than I was counting on, lol. I really liked the specs of this cam but the few rides around the yard I've been on it revs real quick and there's no shortage of power that's for sure. The engine has flat top pistons so I looked for an early head with small chambers. I hate the sound of low compression engines with big cams, they sound like dump trucks to me. The 997 castings were totally out of my budget. A friend I work with's son has a cylinder head shop and he does great work. He had a set of the 3731539 heads that were already done with some bowl clean up work, new guides, springs, seats, valves with a bigger exhaust installed. Got them for $400, he did them for a guy that never picked them up. They sat for 2 years, unassembled, oiled and bagged. I got lucky.

 

Picked up some 1985 305 "416" casting heads, ex. manifolds, Q-Jet carb, air cleaner, intake, valve covers, water pump for $100 ! Only wanted the heads but I'm sure I can get rid of the others stuff. All of it came of the same 305 engine. Heads are dirty but appear to be good cores to start with as they came off a running engine. They do have 1.84/1.5 valve combinantion but I think all of these came with 1.84 valves and not 1.72's. Gotta get them stripped down and in the parts washer at work and go from there !

 

Taking apart the heads so I can clean them up and start porting. Went to my dads to get the spring compressor and burrs. Was thinking about carb/manifold I should run. I was going to use my Torker and 650 holley I have but I forgot this was on the shelf. Should I talk my dad out of it ? Before he retired a guy gave it to him because he said it needed a good home. It has never been put on an engine ! It is the better one with the pre-marked bosses for fuel injectors.

 

BEG him for it if you have to it will be worth it LOL. That is too cool.

 

Bass built a pretty kick ass 265...

 

Sell it to some American Graffiti nut and put the cash back into the project.

 

I would not sell it too tough to replace, save it for now, maybe once motor is broken in and running nice, swap it on!

 

As long as the ports on the Man-A-Free intake are't too large, use it. I believe it will have the ports "combined", without a separator wall between them. Port match the heads to the intake, it probably won't work the other way around (port matching the intake to the heads). Shades of American Graffiti, that's the intake used on Milners Yellow Coupe. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

I love that you go for 265! Im building 3 of my own, two 55´s, and one 56´ .
I see you have the floating oilpickup too.

I was rescue one corvette 55 block, but its a 283 bore now.
265 and 283 (early) crank is the same.

Ive had skipped the blower and just go "mild" and make the engine last.

My words, youre build =)

Love it anyway you do it

 

By the way, my friend is building a Milner deuce, so if you don´t use the man-a-fre, just tell, He buy!
Thanks

 

I agree with the get it running and then swap it out. It will take me a while to drum up all the carbs and parts. I am glad you said to match ports that way 56sedandelivery. I was going to ask just that question. I also wondered, what will happen with the intake gasket since there won't be a piece of metal pressed on it. Will it be ok ? does it need a little silicone under neath it to keep it from coming off and going down an in the heads ?
I send BASS a message about his engine but I didn't get a reply. What did he do to his 265 ?

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=747811

here is Bass build thread its in there somewhere.

 

Heat crossover? Don't worry about it. The stock gaskets will have a separation between ports, while the Man-A-Free has each of two ports combined into one (the entire intake is just one big single plenum manifold); just remove the separation from the gaskets with a sharp chisel and hammer on a block of hardwood. I think that's what you're asking? Use as small 2 barrel Rochesters as you can find ("some" tri-five 2 barrels were actually Carters). How well will a 265 handle 4 times as much carburetion as it was intended for? I do like that intake. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

My bored out 283 with duntov cam ran 12.90's with unported bowtie 2.02 heads on my 55 chevy. I think you could get some 13 second passes with very little trouble. I am not sure about the 305 heads it might work. I had to use a 5.57 gear and 45 lbs flywheel and leave at 8500 rpm and shift at 8000 rpm to make that work. A nice Tremec TKO 600 and nine inch ford or pontiac olds rear would suit you well in this quest. Good luck to you.