6v guys need some help cold day and starts

Yup that time of year again where its getting cold. We have had nights in the 30's and when I try and start my truck up no luck. It spins really slow and no go. Come home in the afternoon and it fires right up immediately.

My truck is a 53 f100, 8ba, holley 94, and stock distributor. Carb was rebuild last spring, has petronix unit, petronix coil, and petronix wires with ngk plugs. The battery is a napa unit just a little over a year old and has been tested fine. Starter rebuild 2 years ago.

I think I am going to make new battery cables this weekend or coming week. I have cleaned the connections but figure it would not hurt as I am unsure on the age. Figure hit Tractor supply for some 2 gauge.

Looking for some ideas or help to make it start better on these cold mornings as I do not want to stop driving her on cold days. Switching the whole truck to 12v is not an option either.

Thanks guys for any help.

 

As you know, everything needs to be in good shape on 6v in cold temps.

Besides what you are doing with connections and cables, which is good, it would pay to have the starter gone though by a good rebuilder. JMO

 

Not sure why you can't switch but I switched my `55 Ford tractor to 12 volts. It can set for weeks in the winter time and when I need it to move snow it fires right up. Not so when it was 6 volts. I know I didn't have gauges and all the other stuff to switch over like you would have, I'm just saying.

 

What wight of oil are you using? 30? 10-30 ? You could try to run a lighter wight so that it spins a little easier when its cold.

 

One issue with 6V systems is that they have about 1/2 the equivalent cranking amps of a modern 12V system. One option would be to use two optima red top batteries in parallel, which gives you something like 1600 CCA but is still 6 volt.

Otherwise, condition of connections and ground are very important. Make sure the engine is grounded to the chassis and to the battery. A less than ideal ground will cut your cranking amperage drastically.

 

add new cables, as well as replace old cables. never can have too much ground. more grounds are rumored to increase power in WRC cars.

http://www.sigmaautomotive.com/EGS/egs.php

 

Years ago, I fixed my '53 F-100 with an "Orpin" switch from J.C. Whitney. It's a series -parallel switch which switches two 6 volt batteries to series(12v.) when you energize the starter solenoid. As soon as you release the starter button, it switches back to parallel (6v.) The starter motor will thrive on 12v. I've also seen it used on a single 12v. battery that had external cell connectors-a lag screw threaded into a connector to tap 6v. to supply general car power; the whole 12 to run the starter. Those switches are still available but they run upwards of $125 now.

 

Do ya got a wood stove? I had a '53 6 cylinder truck one winter that I got stuck in MO with no cash to leave. A lot of 10 and 15 degree mornings. I heated the house I lived in with wood. Every morning I would clean the wood stove out and put the bucket of coals under the oil pan. then I would go have coffee and get ready for work. Fifteen minutes to half an hour and it was ready to fire.

A lot of guys use block heaters here.

 

2 gauge is HD for 12 V, but too light for 6 V. May need to visit a welding shop or HD truck supply for the proper 6V cables and terminals. Might want to brush up on battery cable sizes, and relevant current capacities and length vs. voltage losses.

 

We all love flatheads but they sometimes are not the best winter starters, all good advise hear especially the cable advise. I have literaly seen a flathead that wouldn't start fire up immediately when the cables were switch to heavier ones. The other important thing with flatheads (6orV8) is compression if the valves are leeking at all they just won't start so check your cold compression. Lastly try some 5W40 or 0W30 synthetic oil.

 

Okay I will look at bigger cables. I am running 20w50 what should I switch to for winter?

Is there a 6v block heater of some sort?

 

My 50 ford pickup would not start if it was zero or below,other wise no problem.Switch starter to 12 volt and your trouble will be over. Worked for me when I needed it every day. Have a great day Gary

 

How do I just switch the starter?

 

Put a block heater in it.

 

run a lead from a 12v source to only the starter post, everything else stays on a 6v source. The starter is switched separately.

and get some 5-30 for winter.

 

10W30 oil, heavy gauge battery cables, clean electrical connections, good operating choke, electric fuel pump, fully charged battery. Vrooom.

 

I run strait 30 in the summer, and 10-30 when it starts to get colder. Just make sure that if your running non-detergent 20-50 that you get non-detergent 10-30. If you don't it could be real bad news.

 

Yep, all basics as called out above!

Virginia does NOT get cold enough to stop you, so something is wrong. 6V is enough where you live. If you were in Vermont at 30 below, that's different and I would suggest moving immediately.
It is likely you have MULTIPLE small losses rather than a single failure...clean each connection, be sure cable are big, run a strap DIRECT from starter bolt to base of battery ground cable...everything between starter, engine, and ground is likely losing a bit to paint and rust at every damn bolt or gasket.
Measure voltage while cranking at BOTH sides of the solenoid...you can have a hidden loss inside that from burned contacts.

 

You just throw 12v to it. 6V starters dont care if you throw 12V at themn at all. To them its like paying for a beer and getting cognac, they just go OH Maaan is this a deal or what.

 

Okay sounds like I will make new battery cables, clean solenoid (might buy a new one), clean all connections I can find including going to the key. Choke is mechanical so I know its good.

I might do oil but will probably try other things first as the oil has maybe 50-75 miles on it.

What size cables should I get?

 

You want 0 gauge cables. Try a tractor supply place since they usually still support old 6V tractors.

 

So, you plan to spend $50 on cables and stuff but refuse to spend $30 on oil.

Oil is the cheapest and quickest route. Do that first, just my .02 worth.

IF you don't think the oil matters just put a bottle of your favorite spirit in the freezer and see how thick it gets. My wifes Vodka looks like 30 wieght in a few hours.

 

after you get all the cables correct...
I always like a little either in the cold mornings helps everything get going...

 

what if you tried a 8 volt battery?

 

00 Cables
Solder them, do not crimp.
Bruce

Works good
Lasts long time

 

It sounds like your engine turns over but slowly. I like the other suggestions better,
but you might pick up a $5 can of starting fluid. The diethyl ether component is a lot easier to light off than our wonderful winter gas blend

 

As noted 00 gauge cables. Make sure you have great ground and then make sure again.

My 54 Chevy would start fine at 10 degrees as long as evreything was working as it's supposed to.

Make sure to keep your foot off the brakes and that no lights are on if you jump it with 12 volts.

 

20W50 is way too thick for winter use,with new big cables my 50 Chrysler would start easily and I used 30 weight oil year round in it.

 

8 volt battery, adjust v reg if needed

 

Block heaters run on 110 and not 6 or 12 but I'd suggest getting a block heater that you put in inplace of a freeze plug or one of the pump style that goes in a heater hose. Those are pretty noisy when they percolate if the car is close to where you or yours sleep though.

There are a bunch of engine heaters shown here along with battery heaters. http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&rh=n:15725531&page=1

When I went up to buy my wifes mini van a couple of years ago the seller had the batteries for his rigs in the house to keep them warm because the temp there was setting on 20 below. That's a pain but carrying the battery in the house might help it stay up to full capacity.