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Hot Rods 64 impala questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by oldnwornout, Mar 14, 2017.

  1. oldnwornout
    Joined: Mar 14, 2017
    Posts: 17

    oldnwornout

    i just bought a 64 impala 2 dr hardtop restomod. it's got an 87 L98 block and heads with a carb conversion and a 700r transmission.
    what i know: stock rebuild, bored to 355 looks like a performer intake with a quadrajet. headers and flow master exhaust. 3.36 rear end gears.
    i've only put a couple of hours behind the wheel because of weather and i haven't really gotten on it yet. hard acceleration (half throttle) from a dead stop is giving me wheel hop. with rear coil springs what is the fix for that?
    also, with the stock cam and original aluminum heads what kind of power should this engine be making knowing the mods it has? feels like it's making a decent amount of torque on the low end but isn't able to get it to the ground.
     
  2. bowie
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 2,486

    bowie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's a classic on these cars. One cure is a pinion snubber or traction bars or both. NMW made real nice ones many moons ago.
     
  3. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,374

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    You need to add the extra upper trailing arm on the drivers side of the rear end.
    You also need to check the center support bearing holder and make sure it is not loose.
     
  4. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,374

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    If you look through my thread below my signature line I show how I did the extra arm.
     

  5. oldnwornout
    Joined: Mar 14, 2017
    Posts: 17

    oldnwornout

    thanks. i doubt this motor is pushing 300 hp and i know it was a low end torque motor when it was designed but i was surprised at how bad the hop was.
     
  6. Box the rear trailing arms, both lowers and the single upper, and install new bushings. You probably won't need the 2nd upper arm then although it won't hurt.
     
  7. oldnwornout
    Joined: Mar 14, 2017
    Posts: 17

    oldnwornout

    i figured new bushings would be the first thing i'd do and the shocks are probably worn out. i really haven't taken much of a look at this thing. the body and pans were so solid and the transmission and engine swap were done. i pretty much figured i'd be a fool not to get it. the only thing better would have been a '63 ss.
     
    jeffd1988 likes this.
  8. slowmotion
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 3,213

    slowmotion
    Member

    Are you sure it's wheel hop, and not a wore-out carrier bearing rubber? That'll make a similar racket.
     
    henryj1951 and Baumi like this.
  9. I would bet new bushings in the control arms and a new carrier bearing will solve most all of the problem. On the carrier bearing, make sure you tighten it up with the weight of the vehicle on the tires, as that affects the position of the bearing. The rubber in the bearing actually flexes back and forth with suspension movement. So don't pre-stress it by tightening it into position with the suspension not at normal ride height. The real fix is to put a sliding spline section into the rear driveshaft.
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,876

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I hope you have a drive gear appropriate for a roller cam on the distributor.

    Assuming all stock otherwise, that the timing curve is correct for the engine, the carburetor is the correct specification, and everything is in an optimal state of tune, you are looking at about 225hp and 330lb-ft net., which is plenty, for a strong street runner.

    As others have stated, carefully inspect the control arm, bushings and rear shocks.

    There are aftermarket drivehshaft carrier bearings with urethane instead of rubber. I like them.

    If my lowrider guys cannot kill them, you won't: https://www.iedls.com/#1958-64-Chevrolet-Cars

    Worth the price difference.
     
  11. Are they the stock 113 aluminum center bolt valve cover heads. With the TPI runners and plenum on those motors the 'Vettes where at about 230-235 hp, probably a little less for the 3rd gen F bodies. Dont know what changing it over from EFI to Carburation does for the TQ. and HP numbers, but I bet its close. Plus its a roller block which I am a fan of.
     
  12. oldnwornout
    Joined: Mar 14, 2017
    Posts: 17

    oldnwornout

    yeah, he replaced the bushings on the front end but i don't think he touched the rear end. all in all it drives ok for what it is. i need to get it on a lift and see what's there. i think the carb needs a little tuning. if i stomp it at while cruising at 55-60 it seems like it gasps before it takes off. seems like it's opening up before it's ready to and sucking air for a second.
     
  13. oldnwornout
    Joined: Mar 14, 2017
    Posts: 17

    oldnwornout

    aluminum center bolt heads. from what i've been able to read the conversion and improved exhaust should let it rev higher and make more peak horsepower but at the cost of low end torque. for a weekend cruiser it seems plenty powerful as it is but the voice in my head keeps whispering "big block".
     
  14. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,876

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Don't listen. If you want a little more punch, and a little easier tuning for the average Joe, grab an Edelbrock carburetor (if that's a Q-Jet manifold, you will need a plate), at about 650cfm, and an entry-level grind performance roller camshaft.

    Much cheaper than a big block.
     
    belair likes this.
  15. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,374

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    No big block....425 HP 409 is what you need.
     
    oldnwornout likes this.
  16. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,094

    southcross2631
    Member

    I always had good luck with installing Air lift bags in those era Chevies. Drove a wicked 64 Impala 327 4 speed 4.56 gear and never had a wheel hop problem. Replace your rear bushing with the black Energy suspension bushings. We would drive nails into the old rubber bushings to stiffen them up before good parts were available.
     
  17. oldnwornout
    Joined: Mar 14, 2017
    Posts: 17

    oldnwornout

    i read that the air bags helped.
     
  18. Why a smaller carburetor,Gimp?
     
  19. oldnwornout
    Joined: Mar 14, 2017
    Posts: 17

    oldnwornout

    i was thinking holley instead of edelbrock. i haven't looked but there must be an adapter on it now because i didn't think the performer would take a quadrajet without one. i haven't had a toy in a while, though and my information may be "clouded".
     
  20. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,374

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Nothing wrong with a Q jet don't sell it short.
    Read up on them.
     
  21. Yeah...a big double pumper too!
    Performer takes both style carbs.
     
  22. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,876

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm not in the Holley camp, for street use.
    There are too many things to adjust, and the learning curve is steep for the uninitiated.
     
    studebaker46 likes this.
  23. oldnwornout
    Joined: Mar 14, 2017
    Posts: 17

    oldnwornout

    last car i had was a pontiac and all the pontiac builders say it's the carb to have. i had one on my 69 cutlass when i was a teenager, i had a float sticking in it and pulled it and took it apart and somehow got it back together from memory (and a lot of luck).
    i think this one just needs some tweaking. i put about 45 minutes on the road today and from a rolling start the car is pretty quick. but it takes a deep breath when i punch it at cruising speed before it takes off.
     
  24. oldnwornout
    Joined: Mar 14, 2017
    Posts: 17

    oldnwornout

    edelbrocks are easy to adjust, that's a fact. do you think i'm over carb-ed with the rochester?
     
  25. No...seeing they used them on 230 ci OHC sixes
     
  26. HotrodHR
    Joined: Jul 12, 2010
    Posts: 205

    HotrodHR
    Member

    Pics please...
     
    X38 likes this.
  27. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,374

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Need the numbers off your carb to get a clue.
    If you know what to look for you can get a good idea how big the one you have is.
    That a light and look down the primary side of the carb (not running) and look for a bump in the primary venturi...if you see one it has the large Qjet.
     
  28. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,876

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There exists more than one model.
     
  29. oldnwornout
    Joined: Mar 14, 2017
    Posts: 17

    oldnwornout

    no racket, all feel.
     
  30. True, but the small one (1.09 primary) was also used on the 500 Caddy.
    The SBC never used the larger (1.21) primary carb, but all the other 350 ci GM engines did.
    350 Chevy 2bbls were bigger than that.
    I suppose he could limit the secondary opening, but I don't see the need for that on a healthy 350.
     

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