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Hot Rods 64 C10 - Daily Driver Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MUNCIE, Feb 19, 2017.

  1. You can use any Gm starter just change the nose. get the one with the larger field coils and armature. there is a yellow wire that runs from the extra terminal on the starter to the coil. If you still have point type dist. It will not start good when hot.
     
  2. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Ok thanks, not running points though, running HEI distributor. Just out of curiosity what will changing the nose do? Do any of these GM starters come with a heat shield ? Or will changing the nose provide the extra crank needed?
     
  3. changing the nose will allow a block mounted starter to bolt up to a bellhousing mount application. just press out the nose bushing in the new starter and install it in your nose.
     
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  4. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Ok thanks!
     
  5. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Added a temp gauge a couple of months back, engine is cooling fine. Driving it in the middle of summer/95 degrees out/ hasn’t ever went above 190. Not bad for this Texas heat.

    Turns out the starter solenoid was burned out so I got another starter, it was still under warranty. I wrapped my exhaust as a preventive measure with a little header wrap. So it's firing up now on the first turn.

    I'm thinking maybe there might be a rocker arm or two that might be too tight. I have adjusted the valves before once using the engine running method and the other with the engine off by adjusting each valve accordingly but there might be some that are slightly off. Actually after I had done this the engine wouldn't fire had to loosen them up quite a bit to get it too run. I think the valves were staying open and not building compression.

    The used 600 CFM hasn't been that great of a carb. Replaced my accelerator pump and cleaned out my nozzles. One was clogged, bowls were a little dirty so I cleaned them up, same results..

    Guess that was to be expected from an old used $50 carb lol, but hell I got about 5 years of driving out of it....
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2018
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  6. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Well cleaned up some of the grime under the hood. Got the 500 CFM carburetor installed. Pulled my plugs and all of them were covered in black soot, sure sign of the engine running too rich. Gapped my new plugs and set them in. I forgot my heads are from a 307 and had to make another trip to Auto parts store. Oh well needed more brake & carb cleaner.

    I leaned my carb as much as possible according to Edelbrock’s instructions.Also set the floats according to Edelbrock‘s specs, seems to be idling fine. I doubled checked for leaks again before replacing the 600 CFM and found nothing. Something was making the engine idle up, my RPM’s would shoot up to around 1500 when it was in park and neutral. But once in drive it drop back down to around 600 RPM which is were I set it. Not sure what it was on the old carb but it’s not doing it anymore.

    Got a rebuild kit and when I get bored I will try and rebuild the old 600. Need to drive it tomorrow a little and then pull a plug or two and see where I’m at. Think I will go buy me a timing light and try to learn how to read this old style dampener with the A & O. Maybe then I can dial the carb more in. Any suggestions out there for a kick down bracket? Still haven’t installed one yet. Not trying to go the Lokar route.
    Thanks,
    Mark
     

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    Last edited: Jun 29, 2018
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  7. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    I dug around and remembered I had sanded and prepped this bracket a while back, so after some cutting and trimming it looks like it will work. Primered and painted once again and got it installed, have no clue as to what it came off of?

    As it stands now the end from the TV cable wouldn't connect/fit over the ball on the carb. I got another one coming from Summit hope it's the correct size and then I can adjust and hook up the kick down cable.
     

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  8. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Replaced a bad donut gasket today, definitely a little quieter under the hood. Kind of sucked though because the exhaust hasn't been on that long (5 -6 months) of driving time so I just did it myself. I'm thinking they forgot to snug that side down when installing.

    So now with it quieter I can hear a ticking on the right bank. Thinking it's a loose rocker arm. Any tips on maybe isolating it with the motor off?

    Gonna pull the valve cover and see what I can come up with but don't want to get any other rocker arms out of adjustment.Just wanting to try and pinpoint the loose one.
    Once I find it I will tighten until chatter goes away and then do the old 1/2 - 3 /4 turn.
     

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    Last edited: Jul 12, 2018
  9. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,351

    KJSR
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    Why not readjust them all?

    If you tighten until the chatter goes away you take a chance of flattening the cam lobe.......depending how much it takes to quiet down.
     
  10. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Well I adjusted them all once before using the method below and spinning them between my thumb & finger until they had a tad resistance. But I think I ended up over tightening them and the valves were staying open because the engine wouldn't start/build compression so I ended up loosening all of them up a bit and it fired up right away. So I don't want a repeat occurrence of that.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. I did my 355 valve adjustment on the engine stand. I usually give it another shot while running, but it was so quiet and ran great and I left it as is. While running, I back off the rocker adjustment 1 at a time, listen for the CLACK CLACK, give it a 1/4 turn, let it settle and go another 1/4 turn, done.
     
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  12. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Here is a short video of the ticking sound, do you guys think it still could be an exhaust leak after replacing the donut gasket? Might have to take it back to the muffler shop just to be sure, from what I can tell all the valves have been adjusted right...
     
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  13. alwaysamopar
    Joined: Oct 2, 2015
    Posts: 115

    alwaysamopar

    Definitely a exhaust leak...once that's fixed and quiet then maybe you can hear if ya got a lifter making noise.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  14. Put a rag over the tailpipe and have someone listen for it, big enough to track down easily.
     
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  15. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Thanks guys, will do.
     
  16. It sounds like a donut leak or possibly a heat riser gasket is blown.
     
  17. philo426
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 2,032

    philo426
    Member

    Yeah but it is not smoking and he did not mention any coolant in the oil.
     
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  18. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Yes sir, that is correct. No smoke at all from anywhere and the coolant is fine. We have been in a heatwave down here in Texas for over 2 weeks. Temps in the upper 90's all day long. I drive it in the middle of the day and it never goes above 180, stop and go driving and in traffic.
     
  19. philo426
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 2,032

    philo426
    Member

    Yes it sounded great so just watch that tick carefully.
     
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  20. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Just out of curiosity if I find it to be a lifter can I replace all the lifters without changing the cam? Or should I change cam and lifters? Engine is a fresh rebuild with less than 3k on it so I'm wondering how a lifter could go bad so quick if that's the case? Can I just change the one that's bad or am I asking for problems by doing that? My truck is my only form of transportation right now and a cam and lifter swap might take me a little longer than I could afford right now.
    I'm thinking it might be a bent pushrod but I will have to wait until my next day off to work on it and see what I can come up with.
     
  21. hotrod_34
    Joined: Jan 27, 2018
    Posts: 4

    hotrod_34
    Member

    One trick to locate where the sound is coming from is to use about a 4’ length of heater or garden hose. Hold one end to your ear and move the other end around the areas you suspect are making the noise.
    The video sounds like an exhaust leak.
    Don’t change the lifters without replacing the cam. They need to be replaced as a set.


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
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  22. I doubt you have a lifter issue at all. The noise sounds external. Look around the exhaust manifold flanges for white or gray deposits, this will be where a leak is. Do it cold and sometimes they are easier to see in the dark using a flash light.
     
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  23. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,830

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    I agree on exhaust leak, should be easy to find! Gary
     
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  24. Hotrod1959
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 683

    Hotrod1959
    Member

    Another trick to find your exhaust leak on a cold engine is to get a shop vac. Put the vaccum hose on the exit side of the vac. Plug the other end of the vac hose into your tailpipe to charge the system. Then get some soapy water and spray the exhaust manifold and doughnut area. Leaks should appear as bubbles. Make sure engine is cold.
     
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  25. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Well originally there was an exhaust leak just not as big when I replaced the donut seal the first time, took it back to the muffler shop this past Monday. Owner lets me use his lift, I took the exhaust loose and replaced the exhaust donut with a better fitting one. The other donut seal that was on there was a little small, anyway also added some exhaust gasket cement as a precaution and bolted everything back together. With the engine running I no longer can feel any hot exhaust fumes coming from the exhaust port on the manifold like before so I'm assuming this area is sealed.

    Exhaust manifold bolts are snug so that's not it.Maybe I might have a hair line crack some where on the backside of the manifold but the engine runs strong. No decrease in power and it's the only mode of transportation I got so I've been driving it to and from work that's it. One thing I noticed today on my way to work was I started to smell oil burning.

    Never has happened before and when I turned my truck off in the parking lot I decided to fire it up just to see if I could smell it again, the problem was a cloud of smoke came out from the exhaust. I noticed it after the fact so I'm not sure what side (R or L) of the exhaust it came out of or if it was both sides.I'm assuming it was from the passenger side since that is where the noise is coming from? I work nights so I have to drive it home. I will get someone to fire it up on my lunch break and I will stand in the back to see which side the smoke is coming from. Oil is probably leaking down into the cylinder now if it smokes when turning it on and then probably burning off. I hope it's not a ring now, a snowball effect is something I don't need.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2018
  26. ring gap
    Joined: Dec 29, 2017
    Posts: 45

    ring gap
    Member

    I,m curious on how they installed valve seals...I,m sure yours calls for umbrella seal...I would use a o ring also on valve stem
     
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  27. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Ok thanks for the tip.
     
  28. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Looky looky - look what I found. Went out for lunch and just started to closely look at everything thing around the area (No.2 Cylinder) that I thought the sound was coming from and I noticed this exhaust manifold gasket. It appears to be burnt and squished out as well. Not sure how it happened probably a bolt backed out. I tightened them up pretty good.

    When the leak started to get bad after the donut exhaust gasket got blown out of shape I wanted to fix it asap. Changed my used $60 carb to a new one out the box.Adjusted it according to Edelbrock's recommendations, it made for a lot quieter running engine, that's when I began to notice the ticking. Before that it was too loud in the engine bay. I know I got it sealed on the exhaust exit end, so I ran to O'Riley's on my lunch break and picked up another exhaust manifold set. I will install tomorrow before work and hope that resolves the ticking sound.

    Bad thing is when I went out to start my truck I checked to see where the smoke was now coming from, it's on the driver's side so I will need to move onto that next, guessing a bad valve guide or rather hoping for that. Hoping it's not a ring, guess I will start pulling plugs on the left bank and see if any of them are fouled or wet....
     

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  29. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Ticking gone! Replaced the one exhaust manifold gasket, only took about 10 minutes. Geez what a mess it would have been if I started to tear it down looking for a bad lifter. Got lucky on that one, appreciate all the advice guys. Just drove it about 5 miles to be sure.

    Now what puzzles me is that it didn’t smoke on start up today? Got to go to work but I will check each time to see if it does it again.

    Thanks,
    Mark
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2018
  30. MUNCIE
    Joined: Jan 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    MUNCIE
    Member

    Nailed it. Thanks
     

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