Hello All, I don't know if this is the right place to ask this question but I need to figure out an answer. I have a 61 Belair with a 283 and a stock, cast iron powerglide. The transmission has had some issues of the years that I've owned the car and I figured while it was out I should attend to those. I could have the transmission rebuilt but I figured with the availability of powerglides out there it would be easier to just buy one that has low miles or a fresh rebuild already. My question is: does anyone know which years powerglides will be a direct bolt in for this car? I would go to a th350 or 700r4 but I want to avoid the extra cost of switching everything over because I'm building 3 cars at the moment and don't really have the extra cash to spare. If anyone can shed some light on this or have any idea where I can find the information, please let me know. Thanks
You actually have a TurboGlide, had one in my '62 SS behind a 283, I hated it with a passion and mine worked "good". An aluminum case Powerglide from a later '62 with a 327 or '63-'64 full size V-8 would be as close to a true "bolt in" as you can come and actually make an improvement. '62 283 and 6 Cyl. cars got the cast iron TG like yours. The '58-'64 X frame Chevy 2 speed automatic transmissions are 1-1/2" shorter than a normal "shortshaft" aluminum 'Glide from a Chevy II, Malibu, '65 or newer full size Chevy, TH350, 200-4R, 4 speed, etc. I doubt you find one with low miles unless you find someone that had their's rebuilt then decided to go with a newer style trans but a good core for a rebuild should be easy to find and shouldn't be too expensive to freshen up. Probably something you could do yourself. If you change your mind the 200-4R swap in the X frame cars is not that big a deal and REALLY makes these cars much more driveable. It's a better fit than a 700R4. We tried to get my buddy's little brother to swap the PG in his 327/250HP '64 Impala SS for years. He finally broke down and did the 200-4R along with a 3.73 posi. He said he wishes he'd done it 15 years ago. Better performance, better mileage and the floor stays cooler in the summer. His car has skinny whitewalls, stock SS caps and full skirts and it really makes people look twice when it hits second and third under a little throttle pressure.
If it's cast iron, it's a Powerglide. Turboglides were available from 1957-61, and had aluminum cases. The last of the cast iron 'glides were used up in '62, and rather than trying to retrofit a later aluminum 'glide to your car, you may as well upgrade to at least a three speed automatic, if not a four speed like the 700R4.
turboglides were a 3 spd, if it's a 2 spd then its a powerglide. my girls '61 bel air had a pg and all that was needed to put a th350 was to shorten the front shaft and a different yoke (the pg yoke has a hole by the u joint and the th350 leaked out it).
Powerglide: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powerglide Turboglide: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powerglide
All right, it's a "Cast Iron Powerglide" !!! Anybody else want to kick me while I'm down? Seriously though, thank you all for correcting my senior moment, I don't want to pass incorrect information. That said, it is STILL 1-1/2" shorter and it doesn't change his options. I owned several PG equipped '63-'64 Impalas when I was a kid and got up close and personal at swapping tansmissions. I learned that one the hard way. If you can find a 4 speed driveshaft or at least the front section and yoke, it is the correct length and spline for a TH350 or 200-4R. The crossmember must be shortened and moved back for the 200-4R.
if you have a true 61 with a cast iron glide there is a adapter be tween the engine and the trans the adapter has the mounting for the starter if you use the later trans there is no where to hook the starter up unless you drill the block if the have replaced the engine with a later one there is no problem Clay >>>>
61 block should have the starter mounting holes in it. Anyways, to answer the original question, a 58-62 cast iron powerglide from a 283 car should fit your 61. Six cylinder powerglides are different (the notch in the bellhousing for the starter is in a different place, and the bellhousing is pretty much a part of the transmission, since the valve body, pump, TV assembly, etc mount to it). Those transmissions aren't too hard to rebuild, I did my first one at age 16....
Ok....it's definitely a powerglide, not a turboglide. I wouldn't be totally opposed to rebuilding it, I've just never rebuilt an auto trans before. Where is a good place to buy the rebuild parts and I'll probably need a manual as well. I know it wouldn't take that much to switch it over, I just don't feel like cutting a hole in the floor, modifying the cross member, etc, etc. I am trying to get cars ready for a tattoo convention that I'm sponsoring in March and I have a real tight deadline to get these cars finished.
If you can find a 4 speed driveshaft or at least the front section and yoke, it is the correct length and spline for a TH350 or 200-4R. The crossmember must be shortened and moved back for the 200-4R.[/QUOTE] driveshafts from 4 speeds, overdrives, and powerglides (aluminum) should be the same length from 59 to 64. The tranny crossmember should have bolt holes in the frame to mount for these and another set of holes for the shorter 3 speed trans.
I have a buddy that has a 64 Impala, maybe I'll get underneath his car and check stuff out. The only other issues is that the motor in the car is an older 283 that has the adapter for the bell housing, so I would need to switch over a bunch more stuff.
I owned ten different '62-'64 Impalas between 1973 and 2004. I've done the PG to 4 speed swap and helped a friend do 2 PG to 200-4R swaps. Don't take my word for it though. http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/trans_dims.asp The short shaft listed is NOT out of a Chevy II, it is out of an "X" frame '62-'64 full size Chevy.
I hate my indecisiveness. I really would like to do a 700R4, I just don't know that I'm going to even be able to afford to keep the car long enough to justify spending the extra money converting the trans (running out of room and money!). I might just attempt to rebuild this transmission first (for the experience alone) and see how that goes.
If you decide to rebuild the ci pg we have all the parts and a book to help you give us a call Fatsco transmission parts 1800 524 0485 x2 Thanks Larry
Thanks. If I decide to do that I will get in touch with you. So I did a little research and found that Eckler's chevy sells a conversion kit for $289 that will give you everything minus the trans, flexplate, torque converter and yoke. I'm thinking if I can find something running with everything else I need, that might be my best bet. What do you guys think?
Looks like a good kit, especially when you consider your time and gas chasing down everything individually.
Yeah...and for that price it almost doesn't make sense to rebuild the powerglide. Is it really that easy or it going to nickel and dime me putting together everything for this "comprehensive" kit?
I put a 350 turbo in place of a powerglide in my 66. I don't think I did anything special to get it to fit.
Thanks Squirrel, I did not know that. I didn't think I had to change anything, even though I might have forgot something as I did it 17 years ago.
The cast iron 'Glide is one of the most cumbersome beasts I've ever wrestled with. And what would a swap to the aluminum unit get you? Unless one falls into your lap for the right $$. A TH350 would be the easist way to go unless you want an OD. But nothing is too tough with any swap mentioned here. Bob
You can do it "cheaper" with some scrounging and fabricating but after helping my friend I'd spend the money on the kit if I was doing the swap myself. The potential aggravation avoidance alone is worth it. Looks like they have everything covered as far as mounts, linkage and cooler lines. You'll need the correct driveshaft front section or have your's shortened and the correct front yoke for whichever trans you go with installed but after that is bolt it in and go. Besides the extra gear and improved acceleration you'll probabaly shave an easy 100 Lbs. off the weight of the car. I have a cast iron case Chevy pattern FOM from a '65-'66 Studebaker next to a 200-4R in my garage and the weight difference is unbelievable. The FOM might be a few Lbs. lighter than an iron Glide too as it has an aluminum tailshaft.
Yeah....the more I think about it the more I realize it would be stupid to put that boat anchor back in my car. As far as the swap goes, I know I have the capabilities and the tools to make anything fit, I just don't have the time or desire to go through the process of doing it myself when I have so many other projects. I've learned the hard way from years of working on cars that most times you're just better off buying the right thing and spending a little bit more of your money than wasting copious amounts of time doing something "cheaper." When you factor in your time (which I don't have much of with a full time career and a full time shop) it's really not worth it in cases like this to cheap out. I'm assuming my best bet would be to find someone parting out a running car so I can get the driveshaft, trans, flexplate, torque converter, etc. Am I going to be able to reuse my starter? I'm not sure if there is a difference in starters from the ones used on the older cars with the bell housing adapters.
You should be able to retain your starter, if it bolts to the block. I don't recall any issues on similar swaps I've done. Bob
the guys over at www.chevytalk.com will have all the info you need with pic's. when they mention having the T.V. cable adjusted correctly they aren't kidding because if you don't it will smoke the transmission. the turbo-glide was not a 3spd. everyone thought Gr at the right end of the selector was a low gear and in fact it was a "trans-brake" for towing and Gr stood for "grade retard". they came behind the 348 engines and were often burned up. my 60' impala had been changed over to a aluminum pg. when i got it from my grandfather back in 76'. first transmission i ever replaced and found out some valuable things after i was done: always replace the front pump seal and they come with 2-piece drivelines. i can still hear my gramps saying: "how in the f*#k did you get the wrong driveline in?" i had installed a one piece and there was no way you could have driven the car but at 16......
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