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60-66 C-10 power steering ?'s

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by racer32, Jul 29, 2010.

  1. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    I've got a problem with the power steering on my truck. It only has power in one direction. I have replaced the power-assist ram, but that didn't fix my problem. Before I spend more money, can anyone give me some advice? Is the control valve the problem? If it is, are all the GM control valves the same? Thanks
     
  2. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    How about it-anyone from the evening shift got advice for me?
     
  3. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,968

    brokenspoke
    Member

  4. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    Heck, I figured there would be at least ONE person here that had dealt with one-way power steering on a GM vehicle. Thanks, brokenspoke.

    Update: No search function at chevytalk.com. :mad:
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2010

  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    I've owned a few GM cars with that setup.

    I am a huge fan of stock parts......except in this case. Those power assist steering systems are not really suited for today's driving conditions.

    If you ever drove a 60-66 pickup with the 68 up true power steering, you would be amazed at the difference.

    I would advize not to spend any more money on it...convert it, it's easy.
     
  6. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    I had a 1980 Corvette with the old-style power assist ram, and an old Impala that used it too. Once you get them balanced properly so the car doesn't pull to one side, it seems to work fine. Never had a real problem with one if these ram-assist cars before. The system is bled properly, works great when I turn right, but no power turning left. Im guessing its a bad control valve.

    What's involved in converting it to a later-style system? Cost-wise, is it less than a control valve or best-case a rebuild kit? I've got a new ram, and the pump is working fine. If I can replace the whole system cheaper than I can replace the control valve it might be an option.

    Thanks for the help!
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2010
  7. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    I'm not sure if my old Chev truck factory shop manuals show any repairs to the valve.

    I will look tomorrow. If they cover it, there may be test info.
     
  8. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    1960 Chev factory truck repair manual says:

    The only part replaceable on the valve unit is the dampner O ring.

    It says the valve unit should be replaced because the internal parts are selectively matched by the factory, and the valve is balanced at that time.

    Very large amount of troubleshooting specs, but the closest to your problem is:
    Steering pulling to one side on a flat road; the steering effort will be very heavy in one direction during driving. The suggested cure was to replace the valve unit.

    There were no individual hose pressure tests, just the main pump test to verify the normal 600psi.

    You'd need access to a GM parts book to see if the valve is the same part that was used on GM cars.

    The thing I don't like about that system is the handling or lack of road feel. I believe the ratio is like a standard box. The later integral box is a faster ratio and feels just like a brand new truck.

    There are ways to adapt that box without a kit, but if you've never done one, you really should buy the kit. Name is REZ.

    A good used box will have no leaks at input or output shafts, no play at the output shaft, and a good tight ball socket joint on the pitman arm.

    Integral box seal kits for both the upper shaft, and another kit for the lower shaft are cheapest at RockAuto site, and are good quality Gates brand.
     

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