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6 to 12 volt dum questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by old soul, Feb 26, 2012.

  1. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    I have a few dum questions. I have a pritty good understanding of whats going on with this conversion except for a few things. The three wires that are going to the voltage regulator. I dont need the regulator any more. So can I connect the 3 wires that go to it togather now???


    Also there are two wires that come out of the harness that went to the generator. On one site it said use the one wire that comes out of the harness and just hook that to the alternator. Thats great but I have two wires coming out of the harness. One thicker one and one skinnyer one. Im asuming use the fatter one???? Or is both needed???

    Now I bought a 12 to 6 volt reducer for my gas gauge because thats what every ones saying needs to still be 6 volts. I understand that. I dont care about the radio and blower motor and all that crap. My next question is. Instead of messing around switching all the bulbs in the cluster to 12 volt bulbs. Would it be easyer if there is a way to tap into the main power source of the dash and just put a reducer there???? I mean is that possobile??? And would that take care of the gas gauge too??? Or is that to much for one reducer????


    Finnal question. On my sending unit on my gas tank. There is one wire comming out of the sending unit. Where does that go too???? Does that eventualy make it to the gas gauge the one I would be putting the reducer in????? Or does it need to go some where else??????


    Thank you. You hamb brothers are awsome thats why Im asking you guys. I did do a search and learnd alot. But there was just a few questions I had to ask you guys derectily. Thank you in advanced you guys rock. And sorry for some of the spelling im an idiot!!!!!!
     
  2. Yes, you could put a voltage drop in your dash lights, but I'd rather replace them and have new bulbs so I don't have to f--- with it later. I have big paws that don't fit behind dashboards very well....
     
  3. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    K that takes care of that question thank you. BRO!!!!
     
  4. Chopt50Ford
    Joined: Nov 13, 2006
    Posts: 82

    Chopt50Ford
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm not 100% on this, but I don't think there is a reducer available that will handle all the gauges. The one wire that hooks to the sending unit is the wire that goes to the fuel gauge, but it is not the hot wire, you need the reducer before the gauge. That is how mine is set up anyways.
     

  5. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    So in general the wire that comes off the sending unit needs to make it up to the gauge area and tap into one of those wires?????
     
  6. MartyB33
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 293

    MartyB33
    Member

    The "skinny" wire (18 gauge) at the voltage regulator is the smaller wire at the generator. Don't hook up either end.
     
  7. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    Gottcha. But it wouldent off hurt it if I did right????? It woulda just been more work for nothing????
     
  8. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    The fuel gauge has a power + wire and the wire from the sender - neg.
    The sender is basically a rheostat … kinda like a dimmer switch.
    The higher the level in the tank the stronger the - neg is sent to the gauge….if you put that sender wire directly to - body ground your gauge should go to full.
     
  9. Chopt50Ford
    Joined: Nov 13, 2006
    Posts: 82

    Chopt50Ford
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The wire from the sending unit to the fuel gauge you dont want to tap into to. The other wire on the fuel gauge is the positive (hot) wire, thats the wire you want to tap into.
     
  10. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    So theres two wires going to the gauge??? what ones needs the reducer???? The hot one??? Or the other one??? Sorry for being dum guys???
     
  11. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    The power / hot to the gauges needs the drop …. Are they all linked together or separate + wire to each gauge?

    Sender wires go directly to gauges
     
  12. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    Im not sure havent got back there yet. I was just gonna drop the main hot to the gas gauge to 6 volt. And just switch the bulbs for the rest of the gauges.
     
  13. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    I just needed to know where to hook up the wire from the sending unit if there is two wires going to the gas gauge. One of the wires on the gas gauge gets a reducer and one gets the wire from the sender. I was just curious is to what one was what befor I start cutting
     
  14. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    So the wries that went to the regulator. Connect them togather now????
     
  15. MartyB33
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 293

    MartyB33
    Member

    Yes, Connect the 2 fat (10 gauge) wires that went to the old regulator and the fat brown wire that went to the generator, now alternator, together.
     
  16. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

  17. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    K so I figured out which wire was what on the gas gauge. This mite help out others as well. I looked at the the wires going to the gas gauge. There is one on the top and one on the bottom. The one on the top is the sender wire and the one on the bottom is the hot wire from the batt. The cool part was on the sender wire there was a red tag on it. That said this is the sender wire. Do not connect any hot wire to this else it will damage gauge. So that was pritty easy.

    I just thought I would post what I learned incase any one else is having trouble understanding what I just Learned. Thank you for all the help guys.
     
  18. terryble
    Joined: Sep 25, 2008
    Posts: 541

    terryble
    Member
    from canada

    Fords after 55 have a voltage reducer that works really well for gauges, it's a simple little box thingy that screws to the back of the gauge cluster and has in and out spade connectors. Hook it up to the hot side and power all the gauges (temp, fuel& oil) used them many times and they work well. Later Fords use a length of NiChrome wire that also works.
     
  19. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    One more stupid question??? The resister. Does that have to be replaced with a 12 volt one????? or should I be good to go with the igniton. With swaping the coil and condensor to 12 volt??????
     
  20. terryble
    Joined: Sep 25, 2008
    Posts: 541

    terryble
    Member
    from canada

    There is no 6 volt ballist resister, so you need one or a resistor coil.
     
  21. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    How do I hook one up?????
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2012
  22. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    How do I hook one up???
     
  23. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,094

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    Solved that problem. just went and bought a super coil from advacnced auto for 35 bucks. Now Im broke I spent enough money today. Geuss I have to take a break from the car for awhile and sell some parts so I can eat smoke and get gas.
     

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