Customs 57 Chevy Budget 4 door build

Got my vaccuum ports all sealed up, and i picked up some caps for my heater lines. I also filled a fitting with epoxy to plug the oil pressure line. Tired of losing oil.

I’ve also started to get the new intake and valve covers ready for paint


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

why did you plug the oil pressure line?? Are you referring to the one at the rear drivers side bell housing? or front near the timing gear cover?

 

I think in an earlier pic, it shows the front plug behind the WP plugged.

Ragin, just take the sending unit off the 6 cylinder and screw into the 283, both should be 1/8th NPT.

 

Oil was leaking all over the bell housing because the oil gauge i had was leaking so i just plugged it for now.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

The oil light on the dash i’m assuming runs to the sending unit on the 235 i pulled out? So can i just use an electric oil gauge connected to that?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

If it is an electrical sending unit you can. The light only tells you if there is a lack of oil pressure, and that depends on what pressure the sending unit is set at. For true oil pressure readings, use a mechanical gauge.

 

I’ve got one of those lying around but only a copper line, hard to route it without getting it kinked


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

You can by some 3/16" plastic tubing at the LAP i would bet....the picture below the gauge is just such an animal. It just the line and a few fittings. The little round BBs/rings with the hole in them are called ferrules.

 

Do yourself a favor and go get the fittings and steel line that is used on the chevy pickup trucks that use a mechanical guage. that plastic hose is unreliable. the under hood heat makes it hard and brittle and any abrasion will cause it to fail.

 

Got your vacuum ports closed up.
Does it run better now? Idles good?

 

The reason I asked my question was you said you plugged it with "epoxy" that stuff it pretty permanent when shoved in a threaded hole!!! Hope you meant silicone even then none of that stuff should be anywhere near small tubing. Ralphie

 

I think he plugged the fitting not the block

 

This is exactly what i did


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

well as soon as i hit these with some sandpaper they’ll be ready for paint, the plan is silver intake and valve covers, giving it an aluminum look. Can’t afford vette valve covers right now so these will have to do!

 

Yes and get a fine brush and paint the Chevrolet script in black.Very cool!

 

Were those valve covers chromed? Staggered or straight across bolt pattern hold downs (55 through 59-1/2 staggered---straight across 59-1/2 to 86), and will they match your current head pattern? Chrome, I would't sand/paint; maybe wire brush and lacquer thinner, then seal with clear. IF they're chrome, and can be salvaged, I "might" trade you for a pair of Corvette valve covers I have. PM me if chrome and you'd care to trade. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Oh no i wouldn’t have ruined a set of chrome ones these were just your run of the mill, 59-later covers, one did have a towanda #1 team sticker on it but otherwise nothing special and they’ll fit my heads


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I’ll tell you one thing, i’m never going to replace a tri five gas tank again, i’ll put a tank in the trunk from now on, i still can’t get it to fit because the tire well is getting in the way


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

If it is an exact replacement, it shouldn't be that difficult. When I replaced the one in the 51 Chevy I recently got running, I used the floor jack to get it mostly in position....I just bumped it loosely against the bottom of the car and then wiggled it into position and it bolted right up.

 

Here’s how my poor mans vette valve covers came out.

 

As mentioned, break out the little paint brushes you used to paint parts on model cars, get some black paint and paint the scripts black. THEN they will be done! They look awesome. Then maybe a coat or two of clear to seal them off.

 

Never did a tri five tank but let me ask you is the rear axle in the way??? Maybe you need to jack it from a point on the bumper or bumper brackets to give you more clearance. Meaning lift the body not the suspension. Be careful and make sure you have it properly secured before going under it.

 

Well i ended up cutting off about an inch of the fill hose, it seems to be in there good now, but i can’t get the straps to come out far enough, anyone have any tricks to get them around the tank all the way?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Not that hard when you prep before lifting so holding it doesn't take forever and the arms give out. That's for any tank. As for the tank being in the trunk. You'll now need a firewall. Research early Mustangs and how fuel would enter the occupant area. Not a pretty site.

 

Were to stationary end/ends seated all the way?

 

If there are holes through the trunk that bolts go through that hold the tank, use long bolts that are threaded all the way (no shoulder bolts) and get the straps started, tighten then up and they will form around the tank. Be careful not to bend the tank though. You may have to tighten a little bit, take the nut off the bolt, bend the strap some, tighten some more, rinse and repeat. Once the straps fit like you want them to, replace the bolts with the correct length bolt. Sounds plausible?

 

Oh i know how the end result is supposed to look, i’m just having a hell of a time getting the strap to stretch around, it seems too short


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Are you using new straps? Seems I remember some time back talk of cutting the old straps to get the old tank out? Or am I dreaming. I'm not going to go through 45 pages to look lol!!

 

Yeah these are new ones, the old nuts had rusted solid so i ended up juts cutting through them.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I wasn’t planning on replacing the intake this soon but i just walked out to check i locked the door and noticed water pooled all over the top of the motor, and theres no point in waisting a gasket when i was planning on just replacing the intake anyway so i’m going to just get it done now. I’ll get the intake to the machine shop as soon as i get it stripped of all the layers of paint on it.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app