57 Chevy BelAir Gasser Build

Same here, I did find some K&N elements.

 

..HOLY SHIT!!!!

 

Looking at the Hughs GM30B 3000 stall converter:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...IxVYTFTJQt1mLUs6cSpZnvBwlJ87qApxoCJ8UQAvD_BwE

Looking at the B&M 81104 shifter with neutral start switch, and line LOC:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/B-M-...vjB_4m-gjSggYqTpV_PTtUs6ZT2Xr78RoCVrcQAvD_BwE

Trans is TH400, ATI full manual valve body, reverse shift pattern, heavy duty sprague and clutch hub, etc. So no auto shift option with the ATI kit, and no downshift braking in 2nd. Running type F fluid.

 

Any updates ???

 

^^^ YEA^^^ You posted like crazy and then..... We are waiting!

 

Nothing much to report, I've been working on my property more than anything now that the weather is here to get squared up on some things outside. Having concrete work done, rebuilding my deck, building walls and just property maintenance stuff that comes with the spring weather!

I have the trunk floor area that I'll be working on next, hopefully be back on that this month off and on getting wheel tubs cut out and dropping the body down to fit the cheater slicks, and narrowing the 9" housing.

I have a new friend that is going to help me build the big block as well. He's a local drag racer with a lot of engine building experience. He has a nice mock up block for me to use that I will install a pan, heads, distributor and fenderwell headers to so I can set clearances and build my frame stubs and engine mounts, etc.

I am also working through the final details of the transmission swap I did on my 64 Impala. I pulled the powerglide out and swapped to a TH350. I just got the driveline back from my buddy and installed it late last week before I headed out camping with the family. I have the shift linkage to build, kick down cable and brackets to setup, dipstick tube to install, cooling lines to massage into place, and a couple other small things to get that car back on the road. Crossmember worked fine, and speedo cable also so those were easy. I'm looking forward to having an intermediate gear in that car since it's just a driver. That 2-1 downshift on the PG was a big jump.

More gasser work to follow, just slow on the car projects right now. Not enough time in the day!!!!

 

Got the tubs cut and fitting the tires, getting ready to narrow the 9". Hope to get the chassis under the body soon to begin the front frame rail mods. I'll have to sort out rear axle placement for front tire edge clearance with the quarter since I'm not cutting this one, just inners, not outers. Might be stuck moving it back a hair, or light trimming and shaping two make it work.

 

Good to see you back at it.

 

Tri Fives always have clearance issues at that front corner when going to large diameter rear tires. A new alignment pin hole drilled in the soring perch about 3/4" or so forward will move the axle back an equal amount and fix the issue without a major rework.

 

I wondered about that and seen a few people use that method. I have a spring company nearby that I've used in the past for a few things, I'll probably give him a call and see what kind of info or concerns I can gather. Maybe I can have new springs made with a different center and sell these too? Spring pads would be easy enough to redrill or fabricate new also. I have traction bars so I can set pinion angle and spring arc shouldn't be too big a concern with axle wrap and all that.

 

I grabbed a couple 6' all thread rods to link the wheels together and true them up for fitting alignment. Works pretty nice, and I'm able to make little adjustments.

 

That's one way to do it.

 

Haha yea. What are some other ways you have seen? I'd be interested to see how others get their rear tire fitment dialed in without a rear end that fits.

 

LOL!!! The way I did it was pretty primative compared to yours. I just stuffed the tire's and wheel's under the car, chocked them in place, and measured between the mounting surface's when the spread was right. I like your way, though!

 

I'm sure equally effective but since I have time, I'm probably overthinking it...

 

Sure seems a bit extreme to have new springs made when a new hole drilled in the perch has been a cheap, easy method to relocate axles for years.

 

I've been enjoying following along with this project. Keep us updated on your progress. I've been kicking around the idea of the exact same wheel and tire combo for my '57. Looks like those rear tires needed a bunch of weight to balance out! Years ago I had some ancient M&H Racemasters on the rear of my car. I can tell you the front side of those tires barely cleared the inside of the inner fender. I've often wondered about drilling a new hole in the perch to move the locating pin back about an inch.

 

Thank you, glad your enjoying following along!

Yes that's what I'm considering doing as well, redrilling the perches (or fabbing up my own), or swapping springs to a different setup. Either way it's gotta go back a bit. Next Saturday, a friend of mine that owns a hot rod shop in my area is going to come over to help me with positioning and measurements for the narrowing job of the rear end. He's the one doing the cut down job for me. I think we're going to go with larger 35-spline shafts when we do it. The main thing I don't want to do is cut the quarter panels. I'll make sure it all fits underneath when I'm done.

The wheels did take a large amount of stick-on weights. I'm debating pulling those off, I doubt it's a good idea for burnouts and track runs to have a bunch of sticky weights on the wheel but I have no idea. I'm curious how's rough riding it would be on the highway without all that balancing weight on there. Maybe someone could chime in on that....

 

Stick on mag weights are all I have used for over twenty years without losing any racing or street driving. All of them have been applied by reputable speed shops.

 

Stick on weights work just fine provided the rim is clean and dry.

 

Had that problem with tires way back when and filled up one of the spokes in the rim with lead to get us close than added stickies

 

Trying to understand how you would balance the wheels if you pull the weights off?

 

I would try spinning the tire on the rim 180 degrees, to offset the heavy spots. Then rebalance, it may take less weight.

 

Yep, what Scrappy said. If you've got a good local tire shop that doesn't mind doing a little bit of extra work they can deflate the tires and spin them on the rim 180 degrees and see if that helps balance out with fewer weights. Many years ago when I was in college I worked one Summer at a tire shop for big rigs and heavy equipment. We would sometimes do this for tires that needed a lot of weight to balance (usually just the front "steer" wheels on a big rig). Sometimes it would help, sometimes it didn't. Once the sticky weights were applied, we'd cover them up with some heavy-duty duct tape as extra insurance to make sure they didn't come off.

 

That's kinda what I was wondering about. Maybe another day....

 

I got the rear end stripped down and cut all the factory Ford brackets off last night. I had my friend over this morning that owns a local hot rod shop. We measured things out for the 9" rear end and decided on a good width. He's ordering up the new ends and I'll be dropping the housing off at his shop Monday to get cut down. I'm going with 35-spline shafts, and probably through Quick Performance for the axles and drop in center.

 

Nice work on the project. Needs an alcohol fed 454 though. Hehe.

 

I'm going back and forth like crazy on what engine to run, but I have access to a 4-bolt 454 and I have a few small block options. A friend had a good mock up setup of a 454 with heads and a pan with a set of Tri-5 fender well headers I can use to setup my front frame rails. I'll probably go that route and plan for a big block. I wanted to built a blower setup but I don't think it's in the cards with my budget and several projects that need some love!

 

IMHO... Stick with the Small Block for simplicity's sake... It's easier on the wallet...

 

Looks like you have plenty of work to do before you need an engine. Just ride it out tell you get to that point, who knows what you may come across between now and then.