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'55 Fairlane rack and pinion - Taurus rack?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Knoxville, Jun 13, 2009.

  1. Knoxville
    Joined: Mar 5, 2009
    Posts: 128

    Knoxville
    Member

    Thinking about building a rack and pinion setup for my '55 Fairlane.
    I wouldn't mind keeping the stock steering, but I can't find Headers or manifolds for the 429 I put in to clear the gearbox. It's 1400 plus a new column for a "Wurth-It" rack setup, and about 1500 to have headers made for it.
    I've heard that you can use a late 80's/early 90's Taurus rack on these cars.....anybody have any info on that?
    Also heard somethin about later model Buick frt wheel drive racks (center steer) working well in the 50's fords.

    Any info would be appreciated.
     
  2. Basically it's a measuring job, but I haven't drilled it into my memory completely what the triangulation is on each side. But you need a rack that when installed the ends will be in the same plane as (I forget which end) of the A-arms so that the whole works travels up and down with no binding. Once you know about how long it has to be, hit a you-pull-it and start measuring.
     
  3. art.resi
    Joined: Oct 15, 2006
    Posts: 214

    art.resi
    Member

    You want the inside pivot point of the upper and lower a arms to line up with
    the pivot point of the rack. This prevents bump steer. Moving the rack fore or aft
    adjust akerman effect.
     
  4. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    using a chevy cavalier center take off rack with a bracket plate to use the stock tie rods seems to be the easiest way to go... maintains stock steering geometry and you can use your stock column and just modify the bottom end so you can route the shaft around your exhaust
     

  5. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,254

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    You simply want the inner pivots of the rack to be exactly where the inner tierods of the OEM steering was.
    Anywhere else and you'll have various issues to deal with...and depending how much you vary the location of the inner pivots from the OEM to the new, those issues can be anything from minor to major.
     
  6. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member


    thats why the cav racks are nice... center take off = put the inner rod ends EXACTLY where they were on the stock drag link
     
  7. Knoxville
    Joined: Mar 5, 2009
    Posts: 128

    Knoxville
    Member

    Thanks for the info, I do understand steering angles/geometry, just lookin to find out what kinds of cars to pull a rack out of.
    T
    he cavalier rack sounds good, i've heard of people using those. I think Fatman Fab uses those in the kits they sell.....but again, over 1000 bucks.

    The steering geometry would be right with a Cavalier rack only if I could build the brackets excatly right....which i'm OK with metal fab, and by no means an expert with it.

    FiddyFour, know of any threads or tech forums with info on modifying the stock column? Guessing i'd have to fab a lower mount and a bearing into the bottom....

    Thanks
     
  8. shoprat
    Joined: Dec 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,109

    shoprat
    Member Emeritus
    from Orange, CA

    I think if the steering is good I'd buy some flanges and tubing and give it a go.
    Try FPA in Washington. 1 253 848 9503 for headers. I bought mine from them.
    Good quality and fit ok. I have 429 in a 57 Ford.
     
  9. leaded
    Joined: Nov 17, 2005
    Posts: 326

    leaded
    Member
    from Norway

  10. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    its pretty straight forward... cut the tube off about 2" below the firewall, cut the shaft another 1" - 1 1/2" longer than that. shoulder bearing, stop collar and a brace to keep it from floppin around...

    as for the fatman "kit"... its not that difficult to make. one bracket for each framerail to attach the rack to and a bracket that bolts to the takeoff that'll set the inner rod ends right where they need to be. those "kits" sure as hell arent worth a grand if thats what they're charging for them now cause they werent worth the $400 or so they were charging for them a few years ago...
     

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