Nice Idea with the pulley. Another one of those teach an old dog new tricks moments of yours!!! Larry
x2 on both of these comments. Thanks again for posting such detailed photos and explanations. You do great work. Kyle is a lucky guy.
Great idea on the pulley as a tubing bender. The glove compartment box stretch is a metaphor for this entire build.
Thanks for the comments guys. Yes, had a good bit of tension pulling on the tubing as we wrapped it around the pulley. Tonight Kyle did some more media blasting as I was installing the idler arm bushings. Finally the drag link is off the floor, Thurs night we should get the front tires back on so we again have a roller.. Then we worked on some stainless just to show Kyle another aspect of restoration. There were some minor scratches that the buffing wheels wouldn't begin to take out, so we opted for some 600 then 1200 w/d cross hatching, then moved to the 1500 then 3000 Trizact on the DA using the foam interface pad. With scratches gone, back to the buffing wheels...
Well I'm back from UK, Kyle is still plugging away on stainless polishing and repairs.. Here's just a few of the implements used. And I must stress, this is not an 18 ga panel, with stainless trim we use light taps for everything. Here's a piece of Delrin that was cut out and filed to match the bottom side of the door trim to act as a soft "anvil". Then a spoon is used to bump.... LIGHTLY Many ways of bringing up low spots, here are just a couple of the tools used... This is a roller tool used for installing the "beading" to hold in screen material. The roller has been flattened from the original version, which had a hollow in the middle. A 3" roloc sander held just right will get the wheel spinning while sanding it flat.. In many cases you'll bump the highs down, roll the lows out, and check your progress using the fluorescent light tube reflections, and repeat. It is not likely this is a one and done process. Another tool that can sneak in behind flanges. Also used some dry sanding with the durablock, here using 500 then 1200 paper. Then followed with the Trizact 1500, then 3000. Then it should be ready for the buffer..
Nice work as usual. It shows a good build takes much skill and patience. Thanks. TEB Sent from my SM-N920V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice job on the stainless. One of those things that takes time especially with thin sections that are easy to overheat and warp.
Nice tips on straightening stainless trim. I do it much the same way, and find it very relaxing. Last trim I straightened was on a buddy's 55 Ford rear window.Looked like someone beat on it with a ball peen hammer to install. Spent a few relaxing hours and better than new.
Thanks for the comments everyone.. Sorry for the hiatus, the day job had me travelling, two weeks in UK and two weeks in HI. Got back this past Sunday. Tuesday afternoon we loaded up the wagon and dropped it off for media blasting.. should pick it up this weekend. Tonight I worked on getting the Go Kart Slick hub fabricated for the wheeling machine.. I had stopped at a local machine shop and picked up a 3-1/2" diameter slug left over from their water jet. After some cleanup work on the South Bend, and a clearance hole for the 35mm upper shaft on the wheeling machine... I had found this roller bearing (35mm ID) on ebay, as well as this thrust bearing... Getting close... Bearing installed.... With slick held in place, the alignment looks pretty good... Motion picture version.... Still need to drill and tap the three lug holes and install the outer thrust bearing.. and then we can get working on the re-skinning of the glove box door..
Thanks Henry, good to hear from you! Well today was our Saturday so we put the newly installed GoKart slick to use on the cast wheeling machine, along with the 4" diameter lower anvil. Started with slight pressure and gradually increased. Tire was about 1/2 deflated. The sides (as shown) had been left a bit long to keep from flattening out fingertips, so now we trimmed one side and marked for the bends. The tipping wheel in the bead roller was used to thin the bend area for a bit of friendly persuasion.. These were fun. About 3/16" from bend to bend....or less. Had to use all the tricks, hem is still loose, we'll epoxy all the pieces apart and then assemble, making all the folds tight. Still have the lock hole to go as well, we are going to leave this one smooth as opposed to the factory's vertical bead to simulate the gap at the ashtray..
Well with a nice radius on the face of the glove box door skin, we now need a flat area for the lock cylinder. Since I had a piece of Polyurethane here from the care package Rich B had sent me, it seemed the right tool for the job. The lock cylinder hole was added using a step drill for the hole and a die grinder for the notch. A punch is used to add the needed stretch to provide the flat area.. Starting to take shape.. Some fine tuning of the detail... The bottom flange was measured, trimmed, and folded in the Diacro press brake The side flanges were tipped slightly in the Bead Roller.. This also gives us a nice mark to show the fold line.. Touched up with the DA With the three flanges folded to a 90, now we'll media blast and epoxy before assembling the two halves. This shows the tipping tool used on the side flanges. With lock cylinder. Looks almost factory...
Thanks so much for letting me look over your shoulder,I learn a lot ,retain very little but still am so impressed with your work.Thanks again.
Well last night's efforts saw us media blasting, hanging the next batch of small parts for epoxy primer, and general cleanup.......which has been sorely needed. So we don't have much of interest to show, so let's turn it over to Dana (the owner) who got these parts powder coated yesterday for us...
Well the two weeks plus of non stop rain has finally subsided where the media blasting could commence. Got a phone call today that the car was ready to pick up.. Here it is before we loaded it up.. This is the part where you wish you had a tilt bed trailer so any media residue would be persuaded on out on the return trip home... But alas, we found a combination of using the air hose and a shop vac best to evacuate most of the media. That and about 50 or so revolutions on the rotisserie..... Real pleased with how well it turned out... here moved into the booth and the dehumidifier energized. We do have some pin holes that are more apparent now, so we'll get those fixed Saturday morning and see how the weather looks for priming in the afternoon..
Your phrase about the glove box door being "almost factory" makes me think that should be the name for this entire build. Keep us updated.
I like that! Well, no primer just yet, while Kyle was taking care of some pin holes that became more obvious after media blasting... I ran across this... With so much widespread "issues", let's see if we can come close to duplicating this.. Taking a paper pattern.. Here laid out on some 19 gauge AKDQ... Trimming... But I always prefer a test sample first... this done on the tipping wheel Step dies on the Lennox add the final detail... Need to fine tune the dimensions, but this looks close. I think I'll make up some dies for the Lennox for better consistency on the good piece.. Should be priming soon... once the dominos stop falling.
Time to make some dies for the Lennox, here fine tuning the fit.. The outside corners will get some steel added for a sharper detail in the bends.. The 19 ga steel is a good snug fit for the band saw cuts... The front edge of the panel will be tipped prior to running it through the Lennox, the tipped flange will act as a guide in the slot in the lower die.. Another test run using a straight piece of scrap Dimensions looking much better. Enough practice, starting to tip the flange on the good piece.. The tipping wheel on the bead roller bends about 30 degrees and the remaining is done manually with the hand tipping tool.. Flange tipped, some kick shrinking to get the right contour, and we're about ready for the Lennox.. As Kyle was off tonight we'll wait until he returns so we can have two people feeding this long piece through the machine..
Your explanations always make it seem so simple after you break it down step by step. Thanks for that!
The Jalopy Journal
