Taking a break on the headers and putting to body back on to see where im at on a lot of little things. Rear bags and shock mounts Headers Trans tunnel And other Misc items. Here's where im at so far. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Decided to cut out most of my floor and build a new sub floor structure and a new floor. So much for having this done for torque fest. New deadline is gonna be Greaserama. Come see it there. (I hope) Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Well its been awhile. Kinda got side tracked for a bit. Was waiting on pistons use to be my excuse....not no more. These are the most beautiful pistons ive ever seen. Special thanks goes out to gary (73RR) Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Not sure if you guys can see this but follow the link and take a peek at the first three pics. I got all my parts and pieces back from the machine shop and going through it all. Most everything looks great except for a couple of parts. They told me they had a heck of a time installing the cam bearings, but finally got them in and fitted. I did notice that there appears to be some marks or "dents" on the face of the bearings. Appear to be from installing and removing several times. Is this something to worry about or no? Also I was inspecting the crank last night and noticed a rusty and crusty spot on the part were it contacts the rear main (I think). What can I do about this?? http://www.flickr.com/photos/30458829@N06/
Have you checker the oil feed to the rockers from the cam bearings by dropping a thin piece of welding rod down the hole to the bore to see if it's lined up right?
No I haven't checked that yet. I did check the oil holes to the mains and they are lined up perfect. Im on the fence with the bearings. I will prob have them replaced just for my piece of mind.
Bearings are lined up perfect. Still not convinced that they are right. I odered a new set. My surface on the block is not consistent after maching. Smooth on one end and little rough on the other. Plan is to take it to another machine shop and double check everything.
Heres a pic of the decked block. You can still see the cutting marks from the machine. You can even slightly feel them towards the rear of the block. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
So far ive had two guys that I work with and another machine shop look at my block surface and cam bearings and they all say looks good enough to continue the build......im still not sure im convinced. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I don't know as I would worry about the deck finish. Use a good composite gasket and you should be fine. There is actually such a thing as too smooth of a finish.
The proper surface is a must for the gasket to hold. All gasket manufacturers have RA requirements for their product, best to not stray too far from the norm. My concern is that the 'finish' is not uniform for the entire surface. Yeah, sometimes I'm a bit ocd.... .
Started checking a few things. Bore and pistons check out good. Take a look at my ring gaps. Kinda all over the place. They are all within spec but would u guys make all the tops the same and all the 2nds the same and so on???? Or just leave them alone? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The manufacturer will have the correct specs. Somewhere .004 to .006 per inch of bore. The top ring is the most sensitive to tight gap (it wants to be wider due to heat). File fit.
Ok double checking everything the machine shop did. Heres the deal. I got new valve guides and had them install them. Looks like they drilled out part of the old ones and pressed in the new ones. Had a buddy help me take all the valves and springs out so I can make sure everything is clean. After doing so I noticed that the thin wall of the original guides had a crack in almost every one. Is this going to be a problem in the long run. Take a look and let me know. The crack is in the old guide only not the new ones. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
They got too much of a "press fit" between what was drilled (reamed?) and the O.D. of the new guides. Hope they used something more than a hand drill to open those up. There isn't any load to speak of that would force those in or out of the head; but still, a quality job was not done. You'll have to decide if that's what you want in your engine. I'd visit the shop and diplomatically bring the topic to discussion, and see if they'll redo them..
So whats my options guys? Run them or try and get them fixed? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Wow. I just went thru the whole thread. Based on your recent posts, are you going to have everything rechecked? Some thoughts: 1 - Crank. Did the machine shop do anything to the crank? That main journal does not look like something I would put a set of bearings on. Looks rough to me. And the surface for the seal? Is that rust or crud? Did you have balance of the assembly checked with the new pistons? If not, did you weigh the new pistons and compare that weight with the old? Some of these replacement pistons are 100 grams heavier than the factory pistons. 2 - Deck surface. Looks rough to me. The following is from a rebuilders site "Another dimension that needs to be mentioned but often receives little attention is waviness. Waviness ("WT") refers to the subtle undulations in the surface left by milling or grinding operations. One reason why nobody in the aftermarket pays much attention to OEM waviness specs is because it takes a very sophisticated and expensive profilometer to accurately map it. So people tend to ignore it. Yet waviness can cause problems if it is beyond the acceptable range. According to Fel-Pro, the maximum acceptable waviness height is .0008˝ (.020 mm) for peak spacing greater than .100˝ (2.5 mm), and .0005˝ (.013 mm) for peak spacing between .030˝ and .100˝ (0.8 to 2.5 mm). Waviness peak spacing should be no less than .030˝ (0.8 mm)." I would use a depth mic to see where you are at. If any wave is >.001" I wouldn't even assemble it with coated composite gaskets. 3 - Guides. If the guides are straight, they are thick enough to support the valve, and the valves are sealing, the guide itself will probably be OK. But, you need to remove the old guide from anywhere it's exposed (and cracked). Otherwise, that old guide remnant will come apart at some later time. You will then have to get seals to fit that new surface. I had this happen to me on a set of heads that I sent out. After talking to the guy for 5 minutes, I realized that he had no idea what he was doing. Think about it... If he sent it out like that he has no idea of what he's doing. 4 - Ring gaps. Want it right? Top ring gaps should be within .001" of each other in the recommended spec for that land. Good luck, My 2 cents, Dan
Just talked to Bill Maquinn (probably not spelled right) out of Des Moines about taking a look and double checking everything. Hes old school and does it all him self. Will see....gonna try and take it there soon and see what we come up with. Thanks Will keep ya updated.
I am no engine builder, but I don't understand why the guy left the old guide to put the new one in, is it because they didn't have the correct ones? I just had a head rebuilt by my trusted machine shop, they had to custom make the guide for it.
Hey guys I would like to find a couple more stock parts. Anyone got a stock oil dip stick assembly? Also looking for one stock plug wire cover? See pics below for examples of what I need. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Good oem dip stick and tube can be hard to find as they tend to get beat up. I usually go to the parts house and see what is on the roundy display for 318-360, sometimes a ford application works as long as it is longer than what I need and relatively straight. These often have a bracket (poorly) spot welded to the side and they most often pop off with little effort. A tubing cutter will correct the length, a tubing bender will lay it nicely over the valve cover and then the stick can be re-marked. .
Yea I bought a set off ebay but the end was different and it was little longer than what I want. This one will work but needs some metal work Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Too long? Chrysler are the longest of the three. Not sure that there were any variations. Can you post a pic of the two that you have? .
The ones on ebay have the bend start at the top and hang off the end of the valve cover about an inch. Looks kinda chessy. The original one I have is the one in the pic. I got a second one but the other end is messed up a little. I can prob fix but would be easier to buy one. Sent from my SCH-R950 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
