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Projects '52 Cadillac Series 62 Coupe (High School Restoration Project)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Captain Morgan, Feb 7, 2010.

  1. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    Finished up the inner quarter panel patch today. Went in smoothly, then spent the next couple hours grinding, trimming, notching and filing to make it as the original was. After that was finished I went ahead and tackled some of the paint removal that was left on the rocker panel. Last but not least, I sealed the new patch in along with the minor pitted areas that were in the sheetmetal that would be staying. That should conclude all of the body repairs to the right side of the car, I will hopefully have some time to do the left side over the next week or two.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    After a little time off, today it was back to cutting and grinding on the Cadillac, this time on the drivers side. What I initially thought would be the easier side to repair turned into just the opposite. The passenger side of the car was not only weathered more, but every body panel on that side had some type or damage from whatever side swipe encounter it had previously, plus the rot spots in the quarter panel that needed to be repaired.

    The drivers side rot looked to be a lot less severe than the passenger side, that was until the sheet metal was cut away. Once the inner quarter panel was opened up, it greeted me not only tons of dirt but flakey rust and even a good amount of acorns, something not encountered on the passenger side. Not only that, but further damage and holes were discovered on the inside facing the floorboards, something I did not plan on finding or having to repair. Due to the amount of debris in there, I decided to make a biggert cut and replace some more of the surface rusted areas. Once I got inside, I spent a ton of time vacuuming, scraping, grinding and blowing out the dirt and rust. With all the bad stuff removed, a small patch panel was made and welded into place. Once that was complete, everything got coated with rust inhibiting paint and left to dry. I made up two of the smaller exterior patch panels to be welded in tomorrow.

    I then moved onto the drivers rocker panel, which had basically been untouched until this point. To my surprise I found tons of little pinholes in that panel as well, another issue not found on the passenger side. At the moment my plan is to cut out the worst areas and see how much patching will actually need to be done and see whats inside thats actually causing all of that rust. I am also contemplating cutting into the passenger side just to make sure there arent any future surprises there either.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  3. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    Today I decided to open up the rocker panel in sections to assess the damage before cutting everything away. Not being sure what I was going to find inside, I was pleased when I only found the typical little rust flakes and a small amount of dirt resting toward the front corner of the rocker bottom. The door sill and upper part of the rocker was in great condition inside and appeared to still have black paint or a coating on most of it. The sections of the outer rocker skin that were removed seemed to be the worst of it, but once I get those four sections patched and tacked back together, ill decide if Im going to cut the remaing sections out or just leave them as is.

    Once the sections were removed, the entire inner rocker was coated with rust inhibiting paint to hopefully slow down or stop any future rust from occuring in there.

    As that was drying, I turned my attention back to the quarter panel that had been coated yesterday and started tacking in the patch panels to get that closer to finished. I have to replace two of the encapsulated nuts on this side of the car since the rear two had the original bolts snap off in them, neither was in good enough condition to bother salvaging, so new nuts will be welded in place and coated with sealer before the panels are welded in place.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  4. Roadsterpu
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 895

    Roadsterpu
    Member

    Hey Captain, any updates?
     
  5. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    Soon hopefully. We did a little more work at this beginning of the new school year, but nothing picture worthy (just stripping the hood, fenders, ect). Had to put it on hold to get some other lingering repair jobs done in the shop. We plan on getting back into it next month.
     
  6. 51ChevPU
    Joined: Jan 27, 2006
    Posts: 1,076

    51ChevPU
    Member
    from Arizona

    This is a great thread. Keep up the good work. Any new pictures?

    I also like your suggestions on the disc brake upgrade using scarebirds adapter. If possible, I'd like to see pics of the old and the new spacer if you have it. Also, did the 1/2 inch spacer that you suggested allow you to use the stock wheels without fender interference? Look forward to your response.
     
  7. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,145

    Dave Mc
    Member

    I just made a Trade for a 53 Coupe Deville which is partially Finished ,still needs Interior,rebuilt tranny is leaking Etc.Owner has already dropped $28,000.oo into the project and still a ways to go,I traded a Running, presentable 41 Chev. Coupe for it .So I will be watching your progress.Looking forward to having my new project on the road .I found this picture of a 53 same color as the car I traded for,the 41 is the car I traded away.keep posting , I am very interested in watching the progress of your Caddy.
     

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  8. 52RustRocket
    Joined: Nov 3, 2006
    Posts: 263

    52RustRocket
    Member

    I can't remember I missed this thread for the past year... (Subscribed)
    Do you know the dimensions on the new spacers you made for the brake conversion?
     
  9. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    I don't have a picture of the spacer just yet, I actually just turned out some temp spacers from aluminum to get the car back on its wheels.

    Fender interference should not be a problem. To my knowledge, the Scarebird kit locates the wheel in its original location. My modification does not change that, it's only needed to take up the .300" difference in hub thickness on the inboard side. As for stock wheels, they will not work with the Scarebird kit and although I was able to get them little closer to fitting, I still could not get them to clear the calipers.

    A slightly newer style 15" wheel will fit no problem, but the older design wheels will not clear.
     
  10. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    Interior work is something Im not looking forward to, it's one of the few things I will not even attempt on a car, but thankfully they make carpet kits, headliner kits and some other pieces as repro's to ease the pain. All I need to do is find a good, local shop that can redo my seats and I should be in good shape, but thats still a little while down the road for me.

    Hopefully I'll get back on this project with my students very soon. We are actually in the process of organizing a Classic Car & Truck show in May, so thats taking up a lot of our time, as well as working on and learning about all the modern "junk" that comes into our shop everyday :D

    This forum moves pretty quick, if you post of pics of your Caddy please shoot me a PM, I'd like to check it out.
     
  11. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    the exact dimensions are as follows:

    Thickness : .598"
    O.D. : 2.000"
    I.D. : 1.374"
     
  12. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,145

    Dave Mc
    Member


    OK,will Do.right now I am working on a Choptop 48 Ford that my Brother traded for really nice looking car but a mechanical mess, half inch of travel on the rear shocks ,both e-brake cables were torched off,battery cable laying on the exhaust,rebuilt tranny missing O-ring on speedo drive,Right Front wheel driven back one inch,Chev, subframe,kinda looks like they installed a wrecking yard unit that was already bent?, Fanblades have been shortened to clear the trans cooling lines,so I ordered an elevated waterpump,Radiator from a 4 cyl. pinto.Etc,Etc.So I'm working hard to correct all the problems on the 48 before I can bring the Cad in as I have limited workspace.I have most of the parts that are yet to be installed on the Cad,I got a Salesmans Handbook for 53 also pristine owners manual ,but most important a 52 Service Manual with a 53 Addendum,really looking forward to getting underway on the Cad,but first things first.I will shoot you a PM when the Cad is here.and if you need any info from the service manual ,PM me.
     
  13. Scarebird
    Joined: Sep 26, 2006
    Posts: 882

    Scarebird
    Alliance Vendor
    from ABQ, USA

    That's sounds like a hell of a lot of work. I take it you used the GM 77 or 78-96 station wagon rotor?

    We are test fitting a modified setup; essentially building a hub from scratch that will mount a rotor from behind and this should allow use of the stock rims. Using later truck rims works, and will fit the OEM wheelcovers (not hub caps) but narrowest width is 7"...

    One thing you miss on the calipers is not how available they are (not a stock item but certainly orderable) but they have a MUCH better hose routing than the later GM pieces - and many can use the stock drum hose.
     
  14. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    Not really much work at all, just had to turn out a new spacer, otherwise everything is bolt on as the kit was intended to be. The rotor I used was from 1991 - 1996 GM B-Body cars. The B-Body cars and the 2WD Astro actually share the same caliper and bolts onto the bracket perfectly. I had already installed a posi rear w/ discs from an Impala SS in the rear, which lead me to see if I could do the same on all four corners and maybe get the stock wheels on with a smaller profile caliper.

    Sounds pretty slick. As silly as it seems, stock rim clearance was really not my main concern, I did it mostly to see if it could be done. My car has a set of aftermarket smoothies on it now and eventually I'd like to upgrade to a set of Tru-spokes which would also clear the current setup.

    You could be right there, I have not messed with the hoses or hose routing yet, but the caliper I'm using does have the hose fitting to the lower backside of the piston, not at the top like many of the new ones do. It's basically the same position & angle as the Eldorado's caliper, just slightly closer to the spindle by about 3/4" and uses a banjo style hose.

    Eldorado
    [​IMG]

    GM B-Body / Astro
    [​IMG]

    Regardless of my alterations to the parts list, the kit itself is beautiful, extremely high quality and bolts in with ZERO fuss or messing around. I've recommended it to many people in my area as well as online. Definitely looking forward to seeing some of your future products.
     
  15. Scarebird
    Joined: Sep 26, 2006
    Posts: 882

    Scarebird
    Alliance Vendor
    from ABQ, USA

    Did you trim down the outer diameter of the rotor? The later truck unit is 11.5", whilst yours is 11-7/8"... also, I am wondering how you got the inner bearing to work. GM used an A6 bearing, which is 1.250" ID. You can swap it out for the A13 unit, 1.3775" - but that leaves 0.0025" slop on the 1.375" spindle. 1977 wagon rotor has the A2 outer, swapable for the A34 bearing so no bushing is needed - but 78-96 use A3 with no option.

    Your hose will most likely need to be made - not bought so to speak. GM to my knowledge did not make a banjo disc hose with a 7/16 inverse flare at the hardline - or run a Weatherhead 7828 fitting at the hardline.

    Thanks for the kudos.
     
  16. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    yes I used the A13 bearing. .0025" slop? I could let a little dust settle on the spindle before I assemble it take up the difference. :D The A13 bearing fits just as snug as the A6 did when I was playing around with the 1/2-Ton rotor when I first got everything.

    As for the line hardware, its of no real concern for my application. I am making all new lines up since I am converting to power brakes with a dual master cylinder. The only thing that will be retained from the original brake system is brake pedal inside the car. I picked up a spare arm to modify for the linkage to the booster as well.

    Thanks for the ideas on the line, Ill look into that fitting, perhaps it will make things even easier if I have to go a different route.
     
  17. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,455

    40StudeDude
    Member

    DaveMc...nice looking Caddy...
    Captain Morgan...looking good on the progress...thanx for the pix...

    R-
     
  18. Smokey2
    Joined: Jan 11, 2011
    Posts: 919

    Smokey2
    Member

    Lets me Say, .......What you've done (Doin'), I think IS GREAT!!!!! Not only are you enjoin' the PROJECT, Your builing a New Generation about the "Romance of Buetiful Automobiles,"
    Notice I did'nt just say "cars"!
    If U have extra engine parts?? PM ME.....
    Cadillac, mid fifties engine, trans,....in '54 Chev.
    Good Luck........UR Doin' GOOD.

    Smoke' in tha' GREAT SMOKEY MTS> :cool:
     
  19. davideli
    Joined: Jul 27, 2009
    Posts: 5

    davideli
    Member
    from EL CENTRO

    Hey capt, are the motor mounts for your new ls1 bolting down to the stock motor mounts located on the frame ? I to am building a cad and dropping a fuel injected ... Thanks ... And awesome thread, ive been following on it ..:d
     
  20. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    yes, I used the stock locations and just made some solid mounts (for now) that bolt to the front of the LS1 block. There were some decent mounting points on the drivers side and I deleted the AC and used a few of those holes on the passenger side.
     
  21. Rolling Daddy
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 62

    Rolling Daddy
    Member

    Any more info on this build ????? update
     
  22. Captain Morgan
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 192

    Captain Morgan
    Member

    school year just came to an end yesterday actually.

    We did not get to do as much this year as we did last year. We did finish up some patch work on the drivers rocker and all the sheetmetal is temporarily bolted back on the car.

    The students put on a car show fundraiser last month, so that took up a lot of time with preparation, but they wanted to have the car out on display so we tossed everything back on the body. Ill have to see if we can dig up some pictures.

    We also pulled the engine/trans back out of it, removed the heater core and started stripping everything off of the firewall. We stopped when we got to the wipers, basically ran out of time and still had other things to finish up before the year ended.

    Next years classes are going to be restructured yet again (Im always trying to make them more in depth) but I'm hoping to bring the car back in for my advanced classes to do little things on when we have the time.
     
  23. davideli
    Joined: Jul 27, 2009
    Posts: 5

    davideli
    Member
    from EL CENTRO

    How is the build coming along? I was also wondering if you were selling any parts off of it. For instances the radiator? Thank you
     
  24. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,359

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    still working on this?
     
  25. bigbadcad
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 48

    bigbadcad
    Member
    from ga

    good thread what happened???
     

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