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50 Caddy Suspension

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by broke boy, Feb 1, 2010.

  1. broke boy
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 17

    broke boy
    Member

    got a 1950 caddy that need some suspension swapped out for better handling...
    any help on where to look for parts or should i get to building my own?
    that could be a scary thought and a dangerous one :D
     
  2. i got a 51 caddy and i just cut the springs and put blocks in the rear and from what i could gather it all looked like early chevy suspension,let me know what you find out,as far as the front goes my caddy looks just like my 53 chevy front
     
  3. broke boy
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 17

    broke boy
    Member

    maybe i oughta just replace all the rubbers with some polyurethane shiz and make it a lil stiffer. that should take care of the really lose steering.
     
  4. that would a good start,the sway bar bushings are always shot on the early GM cars
     

  5. OldBuzzard
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 878

    OldBuzzard

    Those shock absorber/control arms need to be in working order. If they need to be rebuilt (expensive) it might be better to fab some tube shock mounts for the frame and lower control arm and go with a modern tube shock. There used to be kits available to do that for older Chevys.
     
  6. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,247

    flynbrian48
    Member

    OK. First off, the suspension is NOT the same as early Chev's. Second, there are NO rubber bushings to replace with poly "shiz" Third, the upper control arms are just that, upper control arms, not incorperating shocks. The tube shock passes up thru the front spring, into the spring tower. These use eccentrics/cams at the spindle/A arm joint to adjust camber/castor, and these do wear out. Tie rod ends and worn idler on the center link cause loose steering, as does worn kingpins/bushings. Kanter sells all the stuff you'll need to rebuild this.

    If you're dead set on lopping the frame off at the firewall and replacing it with something modern, be afraid, be very afraid if you haven't done this before. If you do proceed, full size GM (Caprice, Buick Roadmaster, Cad Fleetwood) from the late 80's mid 90's works. I've done two, one under my '51 Pontiac, and one under my '48 Pontiac. Keeps the bolt pattern the same, you get good handling and a well mannered car.

    Having said all that, if I were doing it again, I'd have rebuilt my stock stuff, and gone with a disk brake conversion. If that's your Cad on the trailer for your avitar, if it were mine, I'd rebuild the stock front end, add a Scarebird disk brake kit, use a Saginaw power steering box (very easy to adapt, I've done that too) and be happy. A frame stub swap is kind of throwing out the baby with the bath water.

    Brian
     
  7. Gator
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,016

    Gator
    Member

    Rebuilt all the stock stuff on my '53 Caddy, and it rode like... well like a Cadillac. Hahaha. I did upgrade to disc brakes on the stock front suspension using a Scarebird kit. Like Brian said, Kanter sells everything you need, and at decent prices. Bought tie rods there for half the parts store price.

    Seriously though, the ride and handling were superb. I drove from Nashville to the Hunnert car pileup (near Chicago, 500 miles each way) and Billetproof Florida (near Tampa, 750 miles each way)
     
  8. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,247

    flynbrian48
    Member

    I'm wondering what the hell "Shiz" is, anyway...
     
  9. r8odecay
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 787

    r8odecay
    Member


    Hey Gator, what wheels are you using with the Scarebird kit? are you using the '68ish Eldo calipers too? Stock M/Cylinder?

    I'm working up my parts list to do this, and I don't like surprises....

    thanks!
     
  10. HaHAHAHAHAHAH... sounds like a cross between Shit and... well nevermind. inappropriate. I apologize:D
     
  11. Gator
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,016

    Gator
    Member

    I did a tech article on it back when I did it, check here:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247623

    The wheels were a chrome stock size wheel IIRC, I also think the calipers were Eldo but later than 68, 88-up full size Chevy pickup rotors (same bolt pattern as stock Caddy) and different bearings - modern tapered roller bearings to replace the old ball bearings - another plus.

    I emailed Scarebird before I bought the kit, he was nice enough to email me the required parts list - including Napa, Raybestos and other part numbers and applications.

    I used a 7" street rod style M/C and booster, the kit said some users had used the stock M/C with good results but I don't know if I'd go that route.
     
  12. may wanna look into 81-86 silveradofront end i think it was the same size wher you have to cut it.plus its the same wheel pattern. just an idea. plus you could probly put the 331 back in since its rear sump
     
  13. PhilJohnson
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 906

    PhilJohnson
    Member

    I always thought it was when one had to take shit and wizz at the same time.
     
  14. broke boy
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 17

    broke boy
    Member

    Brian,
    point taken. Thank you for the input, very helpful when someone has done i before. i will definatly go with rebuilding the stock.
    and yes that is my Cad on the trailer, that was whe i first picked it up, she broke the axle on that trailer. lol
     
  15. broke boy
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 17

    broke boy
    Member

    lol "shiz" is "shit" its my way of keeping the forums clean. its a habit from a different forum
     
  16. broke boy
    Joined: Feb 1, 2010
    Posts: 17

    broke boy
    Member

    thats hilarious. but maybe true
     

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