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48 Plymouth 4d build thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 6berry, Sep 17, 2009.

  1. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    I guess I'll finally start a build thread. I'm building a 4 door plymouth with motorvation from a 440 with a 727. Bagged s10 chassis is going under it. I'll post some pics once i get some. I'm only 17 so I might not do everything professionally but personally I don't care. My welds sometimes(actually most of the time) pretty much suck but oh well. Its my second old car and like the 7th car or something i've owned. Before I got this I built a mini chopper and am building another right now but that's OT. Anyways I'll post pics soon.
    Oh and the color will be purple.
     
  2. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,862

    chaddilac
    Member

    Take a welding class first before you attempt to kill yourself in a sucky welded car!
     
  3. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,840

    Frankie47
    Member
    from omaha ne.

    93 and older dodge dakota front clip would work better than a s-10 full frame.....X2 on taking a welding course, if you do build it with sucky welds keep it at home and drive it around the yard. That way you won't kill anybody.
     
  4. my47soto
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 191

    my47soto
    Member

    Well lil buddy I wish you well on your build. But you might want to rethink the S-10 frame, I'm currently building my '48 Desoto which is in the same family as your Plymouth. My best advice is to take your time plot out the direction your going with your build and ask for as much advice as you can get
     

  5. Great to hear a 17 year old wants something other than a civic with a fart tip and a big stereo.

    Practice your welds on something other than your car for a while before doing anyting structrual.

    I like that you are stuffing a 440 in there w/727, but if you go ahead with the S10 chassis, that little chebby rear end ain't gonna last long. I wouldn't go the S10 route at all.

    Good luck with your build!
     
  6. Stick with the stock front suspension and put an 8 3/4 from an A body and you are good to go. you will need to swap the front to disc and relocate the shocks to the frame rail, if you want they also make a rack and pinion kit for it also. as for the 440/727 that will require you to move the firewall back 4" other than that it is pretty easy to do, make a set of mounts and trans cross member.
     
  7. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    My welds are strong they just don't look pretty. I did all the welds on my mini choppers and they hold up to burnouts all day long.
    I already have the S10 frame to do the swap with.
    Thanks my47soto and ajmopar for actually saying something nice.
    my47soto- I saw your car its looking good.
    ajmopar- I'm definitely swapping the rear end for maybe a 10 bolt or whatever I can find.
     
  8. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Here is the S10 after I took most of it apart with that little tiny box of tools at the bottom of the pic at my grandpa's house in the hood.
     
  9. I say sell the s10 frame to a street rodder.... the frames on these cars are stronger than hell... I have a 1950 dodge and the frame is near bullitproof.... these guys are right, itll be worth your while to just swap the motor trans and a mopar rear and call it good.... just friendly advice from another young gun.
     
  10. hkestes
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 564

    hkestes
    Member
    from Plano, TX

    My first 48 Plymouth I put a 383/727 in the stock frame. Had to offset it to the passengers side to get clearance for the steering box but it fit with no real firewall mods. That was 30 years ago.

    Now it would be a much easier swap with the rack and pinion kits on the market. Also pretty straight forward swap to discs with one of Olddaddy's kits. The grand total to go to discs will cost you about $400. You can also get dropped spindles from Fatmans that includes the shock relocation brackets.

    I now drive a 48 Plymouth club coupe as my daily driver with a hopped up flathead. The Mopar independent front suspensions of this era are really a pretty good design and drive / ride well.

    My advice is to sell the S-10 frame and use the money from the sale to buy the rack/pinion and disc brake kits. Frame swaps open a whole can of worms that can cause lots of compromises and often end up with a pile of parts rusting away. A frame swap would also be a ton more work than would be involved with using the stock frame.

    If you insist on the frame swap, pull the body of the stock frame and set the two side by side. Take copius measurements and photos. Then come up with a clear plan of what will have to be done to make the body and floorpan fit the S-10 Frame. Write it all down in a notebook so you have a punch list and direction before you ever start cutting anything. Much easier to fix mistakes on paper than with the metal.

    Don't be afraid to ask for help we all need it sometimes. I would also post your location and look for other HAMBers in your area that may be willing to give a young guy a hand. Good luck.
     
  11. Timmy Z
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 189

    Timmy Z
    Member

    I would agree with all these cats on the s-10 chassis and most of the advice they are giving you. . I am sure all of us sound like a broken record but you must remember that we are tring to save you time, money and headaches on your build. There are alot of great people on this board that might sound like they are giving you a hard time or sound like they are tring to tell you how to build your ride but you must understand that they have made the mistakes you do not want to make now being a new builder. My advice...Don't build cheap,buy cheap,take short cuts...Build it right the first time or you will be building it again.
     
  12. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    I get what all of you are saying about the stock frame but I already have the S10 frame and it was way cheaper than a rack and pinion steering, disc brake conversion, mopar rear, and shock relocation and it was set up for bags.
     
  13. Ditto on the S10 deal, 6berry. Sell that off to another person. Those are very popular with guys building the Chevy/GMC AD trucks, and older Dodges, too. I'd run the Dodge Dakota front sub, or put the 440 in as described above - that car has plenty of heft up front to support that 440, and run a rack & pinion, to boot. Whichever way you decide to go, you've got your work cut out for you. It's great that you are enthusiastic about building your car, but you might be starting out in the wrong direction with that S10 frame. Just my opinion...! Good luck to you, in whatever direction you go!

    Oh, learn to weld properly, so you will have strong welds that also look good and hold like they are supposed to! Welds are NOT where you want to say "Ah, that's OK, it'll hold!"
     
  14. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,369

    George
    Member

    We just had your comment that your welds were sucky to go on, vs saying they looked sucky. A rodder up in Al some years ago was trying to use a S-10 frame & last I talked to him he was close to giving up on it. My '48 has a Cutlass front clip & plenty of room for an Olds 455 or a Chr Hemi. The OEM clip is good for a 318, but a bit cramped for a 440.
     
  15. joel torres
    Joined: Mar 22, 2009
    Posts: 823

    joel torres
    Member

    hey 6berry i like your drive i can tell you from owning my car for the pass 15+ years i have used it in everytype of weather road conditon ect i am doing a swap now but i spent over a year doing research and i first have to ask hows the originall body is it rotten away or is it solid on the bottom reason i ask is for you to put the body on that s-10 chassis you will have to cut a hell of alot of floor away to get it to sit right trust me i did my home work
    if your welds look crappy most likely they are not safe you should take a class to learn how to make a weld that will hold stronger then the metal you are welding you cannot compare the bike to a car the amount of stress applied by a car,motor,road is way different then a bike will see we are not tring to tell you what to do we want you to be successful and safe (driving down the highway and the thing comes apart and you die kind of idea i dont want to happen)
    lets see the body pics
    check out my build page
    you could transfer the drivetrain real easly from the s-10 frame to the factory chassis airbags and all il help ya with what ever i can
     
  16. torchmann
    Joined: Feb 26, 2009
    Posts: 787

    torchmann
    BANNED
    from Omaha, Ne

    if your stick welding the bead your laying is up under the slag. I'm having the same prob going from mig to stick but i find if I run the stick up into the bead deeper turn down the heat and go slower it comes out better.
    My flat is excellent it's just my verticle and overhead positions that I'm working on. maybe that can help you?
    penetration is about time, puddle fall-out or formation is about heat. if the puddle runs off the weldyou need less heat but then it won't get as much penetration so you have to spend more time in that area.
    moving the stick in a figure 8 or side to side vibration along your weld is a way of burning in for penetration then when you go back over it the arc deposites steel not just from the rod but from ahead of you where the penetration melted it.
    You cant see it stick welding because of the flux but there is a ball of molten metal suspended in the electric arc that likes to stick to the base metal when the base is hot enough and likes to draw metal from the base when the base is too hot. running the bead first melts into it and then deposites back into it. moving the stick around in a cyclic pattern changes the heat patterns in the immediate area enough to melt metal out of ahead of the weld, mix it with rod filler and pile it up behind the weld.
    best experience is for someone skilled to put the welder in your hand and then take your hand and weld with their skill but using your hand and your hand will learn it and teach it to your brain.
     
  17. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    yeah ive been practicing on my welds a lot lately and they are looking way better. ive actually been following ur build page and its looking pretty good. the s10 motor is blown and im getting a 440 and 727 for free from my dads friend so mightas well use it. the floor in the body is pretty rotted out so im gonna be replacing the whole thing anyways.
     
  18. torchmann
    Joined: Feb 26, 2009
    Posts: 787

    torchmann
    BANNED
    from Omaha, Ne

    Weld some stuff up then break the weld apart to see how good you melted it together. practice practice practice. junk to practice on is often free. weld don't like to go where rust is insulating the metal from the electricity. prep and setup is 50% of the job
     
  19. my47soto
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 191

    my47soto
    Member

    Glad to see you still at it lil buddy, I'm prepping my top for a chop at the moment, I'm taping measuring, taping and measuring some more. Take your time bro, peek on people's build and steal all the ideas you can. I'll have some more pics of my build up in another week or so.
     
  20. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    i always prep everything like crazy and i made a slap hammer a couple weeks ago and its holding up to some crazy hard slaps in an attempt to break it but it didnt budge
     
  21. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    haha ive been doin that for a while now just building up ideas and how to do them. thanks
     
  22. joel torres
    Joined: Mar 22, 2009
    Posts: 823

    joel torres
    Member

    lets see some pics bud
    it sounds like you have a good head on your shoulders just remember not to give up when it gets hard to do things i have surprised myself when it came to something i thought i would never be able to do then once its done im kicking myself in the arse cause i made such a big stink and stressed myself out for nothing if you have the mind to play things out in your head before you do it and see a couple of moves ahead you can do it for real the second time and you can kick but at a game of chess too lol
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2009
  23. Farmboy46
    Joined: Sep 27, 2009
    Posts: 10

    Farmboy46
    Member
    from Grandy

    A friend of mine is building a 48 plymouth four super de luxe, we have gotten two of them now to get all the parts needed. Are you going to chop the top at all later, it sounds like you have a lot on your plate right now. We will be putting a small block mopar into his and chopping it 3.5 to 4 inches.
     
  24. I got a chance at a 46 Ply Fire Chiefs 4 car. Someone already has a early Hemi 331 installed but only the block os avaialable in the deal. I was for awhile in my life MR 440 Mopar so I am right there with you on that choice.
    StreetRodder mag is doing a Mopar gasser 48 coupe. i was reading the ariticle this weekend. I keep thinking it would make a great nostalgia style gasser. I would probably reopaint it fire chief colours and find an original fender siren as well. Now you have me cranked. I also would sell the S 10 to someone you dont like but it is your car. Nothing wrong withthe old mopar frame . Tis how the Ramchargers started out. Disc brqakes are not BTW the be all end al. Drums withh metalics and modern hardware Like 63 and later will haul down anything with ease. My rail has Drums as does my buddies Blown alky t bucket. neither of us are looking for more braking powr. Both cars will lock the wheel with ease if required and metalics dont fade like the old soft linings. Kanter has them as do other sources . Back in the day they were called police/taxi linings. The main thing is to get away from the old Servo brake setup and install Self energizing set ups. The rear end swap will do that instantly and probably a Dodge a 100 style setup would do the fronts with very little modification. Mopar stuff often fits year over year over year. Back in the day once the got it right they didnt fool with it.
    Don
     
  25. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    probably not gonna do a chop on it even tho it does make it look pretty sick.

    heres some crappy pic from my phone in an overpacked garage.

    rear with taillight holes, gas filler, fender filled, and roll pan.
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  26. joel torres
    Joined: Mar 22, 2009
    Posts: 823

    joel torres
    Member

    so did you do all the fillin work or is that how you got it
    how are your rockers its looks like its laying on the floor?
    if you have to do rocker work like i did donot remove it from the frame cause it sits right where you want it looks like a good project to start with
     
  27. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    i did all the patch work myself. i did cut the rocker but i am going to patch it before i take the car off the frame.
     
  28. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    the first pic is some old progress that i just took a pic of. one thing is i flattened to hood line so it doesnt dip down so u dont hit ur head. the other is i mounted the horns on what was the hood latch mount with a little modification. the second pic is progress of front end removal. i only have 4 more rusty bolt to take off to get that out of the way
     

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  29. murfman
    Joined: Nov 6, 2006
    Posts: 539

    murfman
    Member

    Dont wast your time with the S-10 frame, the 48 Plymouth has an excellent chassis, and it is much easier to swap in disc brakes and a rack and pinion steering, than trying to make the body fit that frame. You can do your own front disc brakes for less than 100.00. Knock the drums off the front hubs, and fit a rotor to the hub at your local auto part store, or better yet junk yard. I am using Ford Explorer front rotors on my 53 Plymouth, with GM A-body (non-metric) calipers with some home made 3/8" plate caliper brackets. It was really pretty simple, the brackets use the same mounting holes the steering knuckle uses, and was very easy to make. A Ford Explorer 8.8 was also very easy in the rear (4.10 gears, Disc brakes 75.00 at the local junk yard) All I had to do was move the perches. I incorporated a 2" block into the spring perches when I fabbed them, along with the larger diameter of the axle tube it lowered the rear of the car 3". The only real $ I spent on the suspension other than the rebuild parts was a set of Fat Man lowering spindles up front. All told I have less than 500.00 in the rolling frame, and no headaches of making the body fit to a different frame.
     
  30. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    As of now I haven't spent any money on the S10 frame and they it is already setup up for bags. Also, as I take more off my car I am finding more frame rust. I definitely do not have $500 in my budget to do all that you said.
     

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