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Projects `47 Chrysler 3 window-Adding complexity.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lonestar395, May 4, 2015.

  1. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I am now at the stage where I am preparing parts that will be used for the driveline upgrade...last year I purchased a Chrysler Hemi out of the For Sale section here, it had been stored under a workbench for the past 30 years and was stuck, but fortunately it had been oiled before storage and the agates that had formed in the bores cleaned up OK and I could get the pistons out without hurting the bores


    2015-05-16 10.21.36.jpg





    2014-12-01 12.32.48.jpg




    View our workshop "Jobs in progress" pages...http://www.ozrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=49434#p528783
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2015
    Model T1 likes this.
  2. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I have had a chance to pull the head off the stuck flathead 6...pretty much what I expected in the cylinders


    2015-05-20 12.19.31.jpg



    2015-05-20 12.19.08.jpg



    I have trial fitted the Hemi in the engine bay, looks like the factory intended these engines to go in there


    2015-05-21 12.44.11.jpg


    Some work with the plasma cutter will prepare for a front end upgrade. As part of the preparation for this re-work, I have determined that the wheelbase of this car is 121 and a half inches...3 and a half inches longer than a `48 Plymouth that I looked at yesterday.


    2015-05-21 16.16.43.jpg


    2015-05-21 16.58.35.jpg
     
    crazycasey and Model T1 like this.
  3. 41 C28
    Joined: Dec 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,770

    41 C28
    Member

    These old Mopars builds always get mt attention. About the two speed wiper you mentioned, your car probably already has that. My 41 Chrysler and 48 Dodge have factory 2 speed wipers.
     
  4. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    We have mocked up the Jaguar front end in to the correct position, and formed some chassis rail extensions...these cars have a boxed chassis created by assembling two C sections together and stitch welding along the overlap seam...we are doing the same with the extension pieces...


    2015-05-22 18.48.39.jpg



    2015-05-22 18.48.57.jpg



    2015-05-22 18.49.10.jpg



    2015-05-22 18.53.53.jpg
     
    crazycasey and Model T1 like this.
  5. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I have seen XJ-6 Jag cross members notched to drop the frame rails down into it, then welded to the rails, however the cross member has internal bracing that would be cut and I wouldn't go that way...
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  6. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 8,150

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Always love your work and the way you did the front end, very similar to the way I did my 46 Olds.
     
  7. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I should re-visit your build thread, I am sure it would be a well researched process.



    Where the frame rail extension joins the stub, I have rosette welded some doubler plates to align and reinforce the joint



    2015-05-23 15.26.46.jpg


    2015-05-23 15.26.55.jpg


    2015-05-23 17.37.56.jpg
     
    Model T1 and flynbrian48 like this.
  8. looking ace Stuart, should sit sweet at ride height too.
     
  9. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 11,562

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Very nice work!

    Ray
     
  10. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Have done some checking of diagonals, etc. and welded up the rails...tomorrow should get the Jag front mounted.

    Brace to support the front B/Bar brackets cantilevered off the front rails
    2015-05-26 09.34.35.jpg


    2015-05-26 15.44.46.jpg


    2015-05-26 15.45.46.jpg


    2015-05-26 16.38.37.jpg
     
    crazycasey likes this.
  11. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    I have trimmed the original front cross-member down to tie the front rails together, rather than use square tube...I am wanting to retain the Quasi-Factory look.
    Anyone can restore an old car...it takes more skill to cut one up.

    2015-05-27 14.52.34.jpg


    2015-05-27 16.51.44.jpg


    2015-05-27 16.52.04.jpg
     
    Rich B. and Model T1 like this.
  12. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,361

    73RR
    Member

    Very nice fab work!

    .
     
  13. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    2015-05-29 16.30.30.jpg


    Looks like the factory put it in there...
     
  14. Awesome, that's where it's at!
     
  15. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,601

    choptop40
    Member

    Nice work....lots of nice work....
     
  16. samurai mike
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 462

    samurai mike
    Member

    right hand drive?
     
  17. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    This build will retain R/H/Drive. I am searching for a L/H /Drive rack for it right now so I can get progress on that phase of it...
     
  18. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Read that first paragraph as retaining L/H Drive...


    Been working on engine mounts and various pieces...found this in the rear bulkhead under the parcel shelf, would this be from Monroe shock absorbers, like the urban myth that Henry Ford specified parts from outside suppliers be deliver in boxes he could break down and use in the construction of his cars?

    2015-05-31 11.33.35.jpg


    I also trial fitted the long branch headers from my Roadster, I think they fit and clear better here...

    2015-05-31 11.53.09.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2015
  19. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Made some good progress on engine mounts...the intention is to TIG the support brackets to the rail, wrench the button head bolts down, then close the hex hole with TIG and dress the bolt to resemble a rivet...


    2015-06-01 17.15.23.jpg


    2015-06-01 17.15.10.jpg


    2015-06-01 17.15.49.jpg


    2015-06-01 17.16.10.jpg
     
    crazycasey likes this.
  20. Looks great, nice fabrication work!
    -Chris
     
  21. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,679

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    I could deal with the scads of deadly animals and gigantic interior desert, but this? This is too much.

    Beautiful car, though. I've developed a real affinity for flathead MoPars lately and I hope you keep the Spitfire.
     
    waynos likes this.
  22. Peanut 1959
    Joined: Oct 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,889

    Peanut 1959
    Member

    Just found this build thread. Will definitely be following along!
     
  23. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    Concluded the transmission mount today after much discussion, I wanted to mount the under-floor brake booster and master cylinder to the cross member, and run the push-rod from the original pedal, through the factory under-floor master cylinder bore and into the booster...I ended up removing the master cylinder and mounting bracket off the frame and will fabricate a new pedal pivot to support the original pedal...


    2015-06-04 15.35.31.jpg


    2015-06-04 15.35.13.jpg
     
  24. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    2015-06-11 09.07.05.jpg The previous plan called for an extended brake push rod to run from the original pedal, through the master cylinder bore and into the booster, however the plan has morphed into re-positioning the pedal to the Left and down a little lower for better ergonomics...this has required a new pedal pivot pin to be fabricated and mounted.
    The final design included a flag reinforcement to be cut through the chassis rail and TIG welded in, to prevent the inner wall of the chassis rail deflecting under load.


    2015-06-10 12.02.39.jpg


    2015-06-10 12.25.05.jpg


    2015-06-10 17.22.33.jpg



    A gusseted receiver was then fabricated to accept the original pedal pivot pin, which has a grub screw to retain the pin...the receiver was then welded into the new position


    2015-06-10 17.22.53.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
    crazycasey likes this.
  25. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    While we are waiting for parts, we are doing some of the rusted areas...Both sills and floors are bad.


    2015-06-15 11.54.58.jpg


    2015-06-15 15.12.19.jpg


    2015-06-15 15.12.32.jpg
     
  26. As has ben said .... your fab' work, and pattern making is stellar. Thanks for sharing all of this.
     
  27. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,080

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Agreed. Your work looks terrific. I'd imagine the vehicle ispector won't give any pushback when he takes a look at your work.

    I have to ask; what happens down under if you register/insure the car as a stocker, then make the mechanical modifications without having them signed off by the State? What are the repercussions of getting caught? Do they impound the car or pull the license plates and send you home? If someone left the car's appearance stock and upgraded the drivetrain, would you only have to worry about getting stopped/inspected by the police or do you have to go through yearly vehicle inspections anyway (Like some States in the US have)?
     
  28. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 5,982

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    WOW!! Nice work.. Can't wait to see it on wheels...
     
  29. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,485

    gatz
    Member

    That's some great design & fabrication work.

    Would like to learn more about placing the Jag FE assembly.
     

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