First of all for the benefit of the "Search Police" I have searched and read a ton of posts on the subject, but I need some more answers.. Since finishing my 8 yr roadster project, I 've been looking around for a new project. I'm looking at a '46 Chev Fleetline Aero. No frt suspension on it,but the body's still mounted. Here's the dilemma. Rebuilding the original frt end is not an option, and I know the simplest would be to go with a MII setup,rack,etc.Easy,but kinda pricey. I have free access to an '80 Malibu frt clip( engine ,steering, mounts,springs, all of it). Seems from what I've read, not a super difficult swap & fairly popular.From what I've checked, rebuilding the G frt end is not that expensive.. My questions are : How difficult is it to re-fit all the frt sheetmetal,radiator, etc...Seems the steering gear and the radiator get to be a problem.. anyone do such on a sedan.. Read plenty of posts on trucks,etc... Any experience/opinions,SWAG's appreciated Thanks, Stan
..I'm thinkin that clip mite be a bit narrow,maybe not... I've used 68-74 Nova/clone clips, they fit great, and no problem with steering box or radiator clearance. With the "G" clips the steering box wants the same space needed for the radiator. At least that's been my experience; maybe others have done this swap. ...here's a 48 Aerosedan I did with a 72 Nova clip...
Since you are getting the front clip for free, are you willing to consider spending any money on this swap? Reason I ask, there are some rack & pinion conversions available from both Unisteer and Flaming River, perhaps others too, that seem to be properly engineered to maintain the correct steerig geometry on these A & G body front ends. That method would eliminate the interference with the stock steering box/core support. Cleaner, simpler way to go and in either case, the column has to be modified or replaced. May be worth your while to investigate this option. Ray
Rusty1: Good info on the Nova clip being easier as far as steering box & width. At this point ,I'm just gathering parts info,experiences,etc. I know of several Nova clips locally.. Thats a neat looking Aero !! Any major probs mounting the sheetmetal? Any links to build pictures? Ray : Never thought about a rack conversion. Now I will ,Thanks
...heres a shot how I grafted the sub to the 48 frame, since both these are thinwall box designs, it's best to lap the frames for more weld area to spread the stress instead of a butt weld... this is driver's side outside... ...pass side inside engine compartment shot... ...and I shortened the bottom of the core support as the bottom of the orig. radiator still fits this area.
G-body (Monte Carlo, Malibu)? Generally considered too wide for the 49-54 cars, unless you run offset wheels or narrow it, if anything the 42-48 cars are going to be narrower still. A low buck option for the 49-54 cars is a Jaguar XJ sedan front suspension, which unbolts as a unit just like the crossmember in the 54-back frames will. If you use one from a '73-'85 Jag it should be about the right width, and is a lot easier to install than a frame clip. It comes with disc brakes, rack and pinion, and it has the same wheel bolt pattern as the Chevy (although the center hole on the early rims may not fit without some work).
Rustynewyorker; Good info ! Thanks I did read a bunch of Jag install posts... still weighing options, factoring in original costs, rebuilding costs, availability, install probs, ,etc... On this project, I've vowed to NOT go off on some myopic tangent... I'd rather formulate a plan & stick to it...seems to cost less that way Thanks to all for replies/info Stan
I think the jag front has a wider track width than the g-body. G-body is 58.5 inches, I believe the Jag is 60 inches.
According to: http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=7667 1986 Jaguar XJ-6 2.9 XJ40 series Front track 59.1" http://www.conceptcarz.com/z20649/Chevrolet-Series-DK.aspx 1946 Chevrolet Front Track 57.6 in Rear Track 60.0 in Front 59.8, rear 59.6 -- 68-74 Chevy Nova Front 58.5, rar 58.8 -- 78-88 Chevy Monte Carlo, Malibu, http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Wheelbase,_track_width,_and_differential_measurements
I have seen quite a few clips done with a G body and have used the G body to do mid 50's cars myself ...they actually are a great fit for alot of them, a little wide for the 49-51 Fords which is why S10's are popular for them...
If you absolutely are convinced that a clip is the way to go, the "G" body would be it. allot of guys are throwing Track width numbers up which don't take into account wheel off sets and such. The only way to know what is what is by a hub to hub measurement. The "G" body is right on 58 1/2". Mustang II with Granada rotors is right on 57 1/2" Jag checks in at 59", depending on the year Camaro/Nova can go anywhere from 59 1/2" to 61 1/2". The Mustang II is still the very best front end to put under these cars. And, if you look, they aren't that expensive to do. Find a car, take the crossmember and all out, notch the crossmember to fit your frame, weld it in, do some reinforcements around the upper a arm mounts with 1/8" plate, build some strut rod mounts and your done. Do remember that Pinto from '74-'80 are the same front suspension. I have purchased 4 locally here in the last couple of years for no more than 150.00. My reasoning for not liking clips is exactly what you asked in your initial question, properly hanging the front sheetmetal and building a core support is bitch at best. fitting a radiator is never any fun either. I would probably do a complete core support to pick up a crossflow radiator if I ever had it to do again.
Need louvers is correct and rustynewyorker is wrong. (Sorry, dude.) I have a '51 chevy and an '82 G-body and they have the same track width within an inch with the same wheels and tires. (Yes, I pulled the wheels and tires off of one and put them on the other and measured. The difference was smaller than I could measure, but I'm willing to concede an inch or less from measurement error.)
Got '52 BelAir on a (free) '79 G-body frame. Little bit of fabrication, but I'm off work in the winter anyway. Maybe out a C-note for cut-off wheels and blades and .035 wire. Radiator placement and original steering column have been the two big head-scratchers so far. Took 2" out of the middle (straight section) and boxed it, WB is right on now.
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