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Projects 41 Ford pickup finally got it home and pictures pictures

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by joel, Jul 19, 2017.

  1. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,627

    Mart
    Member

    I was just about to say exactly the same, one piece at a time. (Except not stolen parts from the Cadillac plant).
    Once you get back to something solid you can build from there. You're making great progress.
    Mart.
     
  2. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,128

    joel
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    That's the goal and I have tacked the piece in and rehung the door.
    IMG_2156.JPG You can see the 3 small tacks which I hope will keep anything from moving while I check out the next repair.
    IMG_2157.JPG It's hard to see, but I was able to close the gap at the cowl/door . That was the purpose of the bumper jack. Thanks for following.
     
  3. Great work and problem solving! Keep the lessons coming.
     
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  4. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,128

    joel
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    I decided to finish up a couple of things ; the firewall patch and the hole where the pass. fender bracket bolts to was cracked in several places. IMG_2158.JPG IMG_2159.JPG
    After some careful consideration, I chose to replace the rusted toe-board area with panels I purchased. After trimming, this is my test fit. I still have to trim the cut a little. IMG_2160.JPG You can see the " stiffener" grooves in the panel. The original floor stiffeners were rounded and I bought a small bead roller from Eastwood to reshape and make deeper the channels that the trans cover sits in. Maybe I'll take a crack at making the panels appearance more authentic.;)
     
  5. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,128

    joel
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    There is a delay on the toe board patches; if I'm going to rework the beads in the panels, I'm going to have to make a set of .500 R bead roller dies.
    I decided to fix the rust in the back of the cab ( I already have a piece for that) .
    IMG_2164.JPG Here's the patch
    IMG_2163.JPG
    Here is the hole. No problem. Tomorrow the weather is supposed to be fair, so I can do some blasting here and on the firewall area.
     
  6. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,128

    joel
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    I haven't worked on anything for more than a week, however, today I started tacking the the panel into the back of the cab.
    IMG_2179.JPG I trimmed the hole and sprayed weld thru primer. At the top of the pic, you can see my converted bumper jack holding the upper part of the opening where I think it should be.
    IMG_2180.JPG weld thru on the panel and the magnet I use for a handle.
    IMG_2181.JPG Started tacking in the middle and went out. The magnets hold the sides flush pretty well. I haven't figured out any other way to hold the bottom.
    IMG_2182.JPG Inside the tie down and magnet are holding the lower part in place.. sort of.
    I'll take a fresh look in the morning. I had a good Christmas and I hope All of you did also.
     
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  7. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,128

    joel
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    I'm not proud of this, however, I will post the pix. IMG_2183.JPG I cut this out for access in fitting the toe board patch. I started thinking maybe patching pieces back together would be easier and faster than making a set of dies. :rolleyes: IMG_2184.JPG The piece on the left is left over from the heater hole path in the firewall. IMG_2185.JPG I inserted it in the replacement piece I had. A lot of welding to do , but still possible. Maybe.
     
  8. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,128

    joel
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    The toe board wasn't coming out as good as I hoped, so I went back to the cab insert. It's mostly tacked in. I have to take out some "oil cans " because the skin was pretty stretched. they are on the lower corners and I think I can get them out by shrinking the original metal. IMG_2186.JPG
     
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  9. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,128

    joel
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    I'm not done welding the back of the cab patch, but I'm getting close. I have to stop once in a while and straighten out the metal a little.
    IMG_2187.JPG I stopped to work on the right side; I've been using my stud gun to shrink the " woobahs" as I go. Also I needed the hammer and dolly on the right side especially. The back of the cab was really stretched in from the bed hitting it over the years. I used one big patch with a weld flange around the edge to hold (hopefully) the edges of the cab metal. I don't think I've lost control of the metal yet. We'll see.
    IMG_2188.JPG Pretty good penetration in the weld. I figure to grind the weld before I try to completely straighten the back of the cab.
     
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  10. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,627

    Mart
    Member

    That panel repair looks like a real bear due to it being almost flat. You are taking the slow sensible approach so you have the best chance of it coming out good. I await the outcome with interest.
    Mart.
     
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  11. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    Thanks, Mart. As most are aware, the original metal was 19 ga. and my patch is 18 ga. . They react to the heat in different amounts and the patch may not react much while the original can move a lot. That's my theory anyway. So far I have been using my stud welder gun to shrink and it is a small spot, which makes a slow process.
     
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  12. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    The back piece is welded in. I've been grinding and straightening the back of the cab. Tedious. I took a break and pulled a crimp out of the cowl on the drivers side . This was due to the hinge mount mirror and broken door check strap.
    IMG_2190.jpg the first pulls using the stud gun and slide hammer.
    IMG_2196.jpg
    Finished. Below are thumbnail pics of some of the steps. I used at least 30 pins/pulls. There was no access from the inside. IMG_2191.jpg IMG_2192.jpg IMG_2193.jpg IMG_2194.jpg IMG_2194.jpg IMG_2195.jpg
     
  13. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 8,846

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    Looking good! I didn't have much patching to do other than floor pans and a cab corner. Slow and steady wins the race!
     
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  14. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    Thanks, Billy. I've been checking back to your truck thread to see what you decided about the front fender mounting.
     
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  15. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 8,846

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    Joel, I forgot quite frankly. I haven't working on my truck for a couple weeks due the FluRona and I forgot about those holes. I need to add them prior to paint. I need a rubbing of where those holes are in a 40/41 cab. Something I can tape to my cowl and drill em out accurately. Is that something you can do for me and mail them to me? I'd take care of you for it :cool:
     
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  16. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    I'd love to ,Billy, but I'll have to get my cab lower cowl areas patched and assemble the front fenders and running boards so I can trace the bottom hole off my (luckily) good fenders.
     
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  17. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    Try" 58ducknut" or "40FORDPU" from your thread. They both said they have the bottom hole in their cabs. I hope you're are over the virus.
     
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  18. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    Small update.
    IMG_2204.jpg I went back to the toe board/ firewall repair. The right side is tacked into place enough to match up the left side with a seam in the middle. I had to buy another right patch, due to messing up the other one. I debated making the .5 R bead-roller dies to make the repair look more like original ,but to hell with that; too much time required. It's just an old farm truck.;) The juice just ain't worth the squeeze.
     
  19. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
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    Funny!
     
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  20. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    Here is a picture of the left side toe board.
    IMG_2205.jpg Once again, it's just tacked . The next thing is to check the fit of the trans cover AND match up the relief that the trans cover sits in. After these pieces are welded in completely , I feel that the cab will be strong enough to remove the bars across the door openings. That will make it a lot easier to work inside and finish the repairs....Fingers crossed
     
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  21. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    I have the pieces mostly welded in but a lot of weld dressing to do.
    IMG_2207.jpg I cut the left side because I tried to just partially cut and rotate that corner. I couldn't make it work. The 2 panels overlapped in the center and that gave me some extra to cut and trim and fill the gap.
    IMG_2208.jpg grind and fit
    IMG_2210.jpg The structural rust is pretty much gone. Hooray.
     
  22. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,627

    Mart
    Member

    Hooray! indeed. I couldn't believe how much rust that old truck was harbouring. You've done a great job in getting rid of all the rusted areas. This will be an excellent truck when you've finished with it.
    Mart.
     
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  23. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 3,270

    The 39 guy
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    Nice work Joel! Congratulations!
     
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  24. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    Thanks, Mart. There is still a long way to go; the doors are more of a problem than they appear. I'm looking for another pair where both hinges are solidly attached. I swapped some machining for the use of a rotisserie when the weather gets better.
    Thanks, Sam. I plan on using a rotisserie to install the cowl and cab corner pieces; so, I think I'll get the Flathead to the machine shop. I want to get it assembled and installed in the chassis. If nothing else, it'll free up some garage space.
     
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  25. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    The truck had a big hot air leak where the steering column passed through the firewall. Since I had to remove a section of good metal to fit toe board pieces, I worked out a modification to allow a seal to be installed . Here are some pix of the changes.
    IMG_2216.jpg The hole with threaded inserts to locate the pedal stop cover. There was additional trimming required from here.
    IMG_2217.jpg The modified cover in position. I had to move the cut for the column up about 3/16 " and I cut the cover depression around the column and flipped it over to allow for a foam type seal to be trapped between the cover and toe board.
    IMG_2218.jpg I have 3 ,at least, more threaded inserts to install. After I finish dressing the welds, I'm going to use 1/4-20 inserts to fasten the trans cover.
     
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  26. Well done! I wish I had your energy on mine. I’d be driving.
     
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  27. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
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    ^^^^Good One and accurate in my garage as well!

    Keep at her Joel. After seeing all the repairs you have made, work and time it has taken I swear to not complain about sanding primer on mine ever again as I have it easy in comparison.
     
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  28. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,128

    joel
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    This was supposed to be a" fix while you drive" thing. I sure missed the goal posts on this one.

    I remember the block sanding on my avatar and it sucked. I think I'd rather cut weld and grind. I think you're getting close to color; hang in there. I'm retired and I have 3 choices on any given day; watch TV, play with my grandsons,or go out to the garage. Two out of three ain't bad.
     
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  29. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,128

    joel
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    Here is a small update. I took a break on the truck to do a quick repair on my coupe front brakes, but I'm waiting for parts.
    From crawling around on the inside of the cab, I created a bow in the floor with a low spot right behind the trans. cover opening. It makes sense since there is no support under the floor from side to side. My first thought was to bash Henry engineering, however later I thought " the seat riser provided a stiffener for the floor" . Mine is in need of repair and can't be used right now, so, I tacked a piece of angle iron in it's place. IMG_2227.jpg The trans cover fits better now.
     
  30. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,128

    joel
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    BTW I found an adapter for my T 170 trans on epay. I can use the stock cable and speedometer. IMG_2228.jpg
     

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