I have a 41 Ford pickup and am about to rebuild my 283 engine. I’ve been to the machine shop and was told that I need the pistons bored to +0.040 and mains/ends will be +0.010. I don’t want the fastest truck in the world, nor the slowest. I just want it to sound good when at idle! But don’t we all. A little bit about the truck. I’m going for a traditional look. I will be putting in a 40 Ford car dash and a 39 opening wind screen, with a 40 Ford column, shifter and steering wheel. I’ve got an early 9-inch back axle with a 3.73 lock out. I will mainly be using it for going to hotrod events and going on the strip for fun. It’s never going to be a daily driver. I would like the engine to look traditional as well. Something that I like the look of is this one: With my 283 I’ve got a Weiand tri-carb manifold with new 97 Strombergs. I’ve got an early Mallory Dual Point that I will be converting to PerTronix, and more than likely will be using a PowerGen alternator. I need some help choosing which cam to get and what the converter stall speed should be. Some figures that will be of use: Weight of the pick up: 2745 lbs Gear ratio: 3.73 Tire size: 650-16 Firestone, OD 29.5”, but will be changing this (once the first set has worn out) to 700-16 Firestone, OD 30.5” Block casting identification number – 3849852 CID – 283 Years used – 65-67 Used in – Trucks and passenger cars Engine and crank specifications (inches) CID Year Bore Stroke Rod-Journal Dia. Main Journal Dia. 283 57-67 3.875 3.000 2.000 2.3000 Crank – GM3815822 Casting Number CID Year Application Notes 3815822 283 55-67 Truck Forged Cylinder Heads – 3814480 Years Casting# CID Intake Exhaust CC 1962-67 3814480 283,327 1.72 1.5 70 To throw in another factor, I would like to occasionally tow a teardrop trailer. This is my first project and I could really do with some help on figuring out what cam to get, what stall to have, and would like to know what this engine will be driving like i.e. torque/performance. Cheers, Matt This what she looks like at the moment:
I've got a TH350. I don't know what you mean about compression. Sorry, as I said this is all new to me. If you mean the heads this is 70 cc.
70cc on a 283?, can you let us know the casting numbers of the heads, please? You can't run much cam with a low compression engine, which would mean a tight converter, not a stall, would be best...okay someone will pop in and say what about a blower engine, but we're not talking about a blower on it...
The casting number for the cylinder heads is 3814480. The info is in the bit above, but it's spaced a bit funny. Year 1962-67 CID 283, 327 Intake 1.72 Exhaust 1.5 CC 70
Yea...Mortec says... 3814480....60-67...283/327..70cc chambers, 1.72/1.5 valves...I realize SBC heads are not laying in the street corners of the UK, so now you need to do some serious looking into piston to deck height so see what your CR will be using those heads...you can't select a cam until you put the info together, i/e a "big" cam in a low CR motor sucks, as does a small cam in a high CR motor...seems to me you need to look for the Chevy 305 heads-pre-86?...I think, that had the smaller combustion chambers...maybe 416's???, I think they were around 58 or 60 CC's, and will get your compression up to where you can run a cam that makes some power, and still bleed off some cylinder pressure down low. You can mill your heads and block to get the CR up, but then after a bit...you have to start looking at intake manifold angles to make the mounting surfaces to true them up. I guess you could look at pistons for the 283 that will bring the CR up to where you want, and weigh that against the cost vs another set of heads....but I don't know your heads and how they'ed flow, vs another set of heads/etc. I/e 9.5/1 CR, with "x" head, might still choke the engine vs 8.5/1 "y" head that with less cam will flow and run better. Hope I make sense...and again, I realize you might have to work with what you have, if that's the case, then just choose wisely.
there are several threads on here discussing small displacement builds - 283, 307. go through them. If your block absolutely needs boring, you can tailor the pistons to the chamber CC to get the CR you seek.
Thanks for the responses, very helpful. I have looked on the threads for other 283 builds, but got overwhelmed with the information. One thing what keeps coming up are power pack heads. So basically, which power pack heads would I need, as I know there are a few. Because from your comments it is clear I will need different heads.
Well, heads and compression are part of the answer, but not the whole answer. You do want as much compression as you can. Transmission choice is important too. Personally, I'd lose the TH350 and switch to a T5 manual (or almost any manual that can take the anticipated power), or if you absolutely have to have an automatic, a 700R or similar trans that features convertor lock-up. These will allow you more latitude in engine build level without a loss in drivability and durability. The problem is the high stall convertor. But if you use a lumpy 'rump rump' cam, you need the convertor so the car will idle in gear without going 15 mph with your foot off the brake. Why is it a problem? Keep in mind that an 1800 rpm stall convertor won't lock up until you're doing over 40 mph at your tire size/gear ratio. At speeds below that, it's slipping.... and generating heat. Add towing to that, more heat. You'll also have mushy throttle response until the motor rpms reach stall speed. If you usually travel at speeds above that, this may not matter, but I'd certainly question my convertor supplier for the best choice for this combination. He may even give you a cam recommendation if you can give him the compression ratio. I'll also point out that the early dual-point without vacuum advance will reduce your fuel economy by at least 20%, maybe more....
Most cam manufacture's have done the homework for you and will recommend a compression ratio for a given cam that is automatic transmission friendly and a stall speed for the converter.
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