Just a couple pics ..... Unfortunately, you can’t really see much but the gas and brake lines look much cleaner than before to me anyway. You can see the exhaust running forward and will hook up with the front e heist pipes. I will put a couple pieces of angle iron where the exhaust hangers are to hold things snug, with another set up by the front-to-rear exhaust connection will be .....
No damage from Isaias -,just a somewhat sleepless night and a lot of branches down. Finished putting our yard back to rights and finished painting the gas tank and primer the rear sway bar and brackets. That was about it for today but fortunately we came away unscathed .....
I am looking for a used 11c-8219 40 ford pickup hood ornament. I do not care how beat up as long as it is in one piece and all there. I can buy new but it will not fit the theme of the truck. Thought I had one but it was a 40 Standard which is different. PM me with what you may have. I have been unsuccessful so far in my searches ...... SO SORRY - the part number in the Drake catalogue is 01C-8218 Thanks ......
Guess which side my wife, who has a degree in Anthropology, picked of the “tanner boards” she wanted topside? You bet! I then got to work on glueing the 1/4” shims these boards need to make them level with the new boards .... I also glued a long crack on each boards from the back side and clamped it .... I did this because being exposed to the weather from time to time, the expansion and contraction would only make them worse. These ends will be on the cab end and they will have a hardwood cap that will make them slightly longer to fit the bed and hold the crack from reopening. The one board had some holes where the PO must have yanked them up. I sanded them and the boards will get 3 good coats of some kind of durable varnish/epoxy/tough stuff of some kind. I have not decided yet but I want a satin finish so that rules out certain types of varnish .... Making progress again .....
Is this what you need? https://www.ebay.com/p/1923120685?i...MIncb-ydiH6wIVlh6tBh1AewDEEAQYASABEgLhM_D_BwE @TomT Phil
Unfortunately, no - it’s a 1-year only hood ornament for the 40 Ford Pickup, 01C-8218(-B) - Drake does not use the -B in their numbering ......
Here is an illustration for reference. See page 2 of 4. https://drive.google.com/file/d/18rdDUztWtAMArj7f1dYFQjQ-lugWo3WM/view?usp=drivesdk Phil
Got back on the truck today, specifically the wood bed. Capped the two cracked ends with some oak. I had to the find a router bit that was deep enough and took two hours. Finally came up with a solution and started the messy process of routing the two center boards. The result, to me, was much better than I had hoped .... The wife loves it which is always a boost - so, I started working on the two end boards .... These will take a little bit of time since I need to trim out the outside for the kickup over the frame on both sides. I am not sure how I will do that at the moment but I will come up with something ......
Still on the bed wood - I will let the pictures tell the tale .... The bed rail has two areas where it bows up into the floorboards - over the frame kickup and the spot where the gas tank neck protrudes. Both bed rails have the same bump ups as some of the non USA cars were made with the gas fill on the passenger side. The cut outs were made using a combination of items - hammer and wood chisel, belt sander, large high speed dremel tool using a carbide bit and a cutoff wheel. You can see the result ..... I centered the two tanner boards and did the driver side first after routing out the grooves ..... .... and then the passenger side. Being the last board some trimming here and there was needed. I also noticed that with the tailgate closed I needed a relief in the ends of the boards. So, I just made the boards a 1/2” shorter and put a strip in low enough on the ends to clear the tailgate. You can see them in the last pic. .... the raw edge of all 4 boards in the last pic will be covered with a metal edge. The end result is much better than I expected. For the tanner boards I put support strips laterally at each support to help stop them from flexing. Now I need to locate the 6 main holes holding the bed to the frame, locate and drill the bed board strips, and paint the underside of the boards, sealing the tops.
Today I primed and painted the underside of the boards ..... I brushed on both and the black is Rustoleum Satin Black. This is just a first coat and the second and perhaps third will be sprayed. I wanted the first coat to be heavy .......
Here's another ad for your review. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/1201580/ Phil
So here is the bedwood done - I used satin Helmsman exterior spar varnish, 4 coats total. Not the hardest or most durable but easy to touch up .... The outer boards I but some stain on to give them character as well as some mineral spirits from cleaning brushes. Just to enhance. their character and not to match the tanner boards. The tanner boards really pop - although scuffed with scotchbrite pads, I will let time and Mother Nature do the rest .....
I like the idea of painting the bottom of the bed wood black. I was talking to the guy at the rhinoliner joint and he said he has rhino lined the bottom of the bed boards before. I didn't know you could use it on wood. It may make them last longer.
Well, a buddy of mine who does high end builds said that’s what he does. All I needed was the primer as I had the paint - total cost around $30.
Been cleaning up the shop and putting everything back in some order from before doing the bedwood, doing a bunch of smalls, and just gathering my focus as to what’s next. I wanted to roll out the truck and power wash the back end to get ready to paint back there but we have had rain like crazy here so that is out. I hate when I am focused on doing something and can’t do because of whatever and I have to change gears ..... I had a tough time going to sleep night before last - my mind was working overtime on the project - and in particular, not being happy with using lag screws to hold the tanner boards to the two wood cross pieces. Then it dawned on me that I had one piece left of the heavy steel supports used for the industrial grey shelving. It all ready has holes in it and if I lined it up right, I could bolt that to the wood cross pieces forming a shelf to use all bolts and no lag screws. As soon as I got up, I found the bolts I wanted, slotted large carriage style bolts, that are long enough to pass through everything and it would all look consistent and more old style slotted bolts. I ordered a box and today I started on getting the the cross piece installed. I first cut the piece in half but that was too hasty as I would miss the two outer bed strips by an inch on each end. In my stash I found a short piece that matched making it just long enough to hit all 3 bed strips. Measure things up, cut the short piece in half, welded it on, made marks and clamped them in place This may all sound clear as mud but here are some pics .... This really makes my life easier, makes the look of the hold down bolts all consistent, and goes well with the 6 carriage bolts holding the bed wood down (there are two more carriage bolts I can’t use because the 36 frame is different). The bolts I ordered are 1/4-20, the same size the stock bed strips are held down with. In each of the 5 cross pieces where the bedwood resides on, I will add two bolts in the tanner boards to help keep them down. The bed strip alone I do not think will do it with such big boards. The other item I have been playing with is bumpers. I have some 37 car bumpers that I am thinking of using. The fronts are cut in half which is good because, since this is themed as a shop truck from the late 50s/early 60s, I will put a heavy piece of oak in the front of the split bumper. Out back I am still thinking of having a ClassIII hitch from under the bumper. License plate location is still questionable but I will know more when the bed is installed. Again, this is part of my original plan for the truck but whether it will work to my satisfaction remains to be seen. Just trial fit one of the rear fenders - looking good to me! Corona virus aside, I am having too much fun in the garage .....
I Romberg seeing a 37 chevy shop truck at the local Texaco service station and garage that had 3 bumpers stacked one above the others for a push truck. This was a fairly common practice. The Conoco station had one and the Gulf station had one also. Some of them had a tire mounted on them.
Thanks for the comment ..... I remember the stacked bumpers (where I grew up, they were usually two stacked) and definitely the tire is out (that’s the wife talking) although I used it several times in high school and college. I think a Don Montgomery book showed that at Bonneville there were some trucks that had wood up front. It’s not like it will be functional but I will check again at some sources. I want to be true to firm, not so much function ......
I got the back side of the frame, from the back of the cab to the back end of the frame, painted. I did it the hard way as it was raining again - cleaned everything with mineral spirits, wiped it down, primed the bare metal areas (the frame was all ready painted black) and painted it Rustoleum satin black. Nothing fancy, easy to upkeep, and I know it’s durable .... The last pic is of the wood cross piece with the angle iron attached ..... Since I was in the garage painting, I had to quit early to let things dry ( the weather did not help any) and tomorrow I will open the doors to let the smell dissipate ...... Another item off the checklist ......
We have - from 6-8” in the last couple of days. May get some more tonight and then we dry out for a day or two ....
Most of the stock panels and p/u trucks I've seen have some sorta black coating on the underside of the wood from the factory.
Worked on the bed some more today - did some body work on the side that the lower panel I made was welder on and plugged up 5 small holes that were not used in my bed setup a PO probably used it for hold downs or something. I know my bed had a tonneau cover on it - the snap locations and bow locations are there but if I did a bed cover, it would not cover the angled portion of the bed side - that’s what makes the look of the bed imho. Sorry, no pics but I am getting closer to paint time on the bed. Depending on how the weather is tomorrow, I hope to start working on getting the rear fenders paint ready as I hope to paint the bed, tailgate., fenders and the two small front aprons between the cab and rear fender all together.
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