Technical 40 Ford Column drop/lock... What am I missing

I'm rebuilding the column drop for my 40, and it had already been partially disassembled, so I'm not sure what it needs.

I have ordered a new lock and key, as well as a chrome switch lever and an endcap.

It looks like there is something that slides into the slotted part of the column lock barrel that keeps the switch locked when the column is locked, and then when the column is unlocked, it frees up the switch. Also, is there something besides a bolt that screws in under the switch besides a screw? It looks like it might be something spring loaded to keep the switch in the "ON" position.

What you see in this picture is all I have.

 

There is a screw, spring and a small ball bearing , to keep the switch tight in the on position.

 

Hi Dan, I am glad you brought up this question. I tore my column drop apart for painting a few months ago and had not reassembled it yet.

You will need a set screw for the lock cylinder. it probably comes with the lock.



I had the ball bearing in the parts bag but nit the spring. I went through my spring drawer and found this one.
The ball bearing measures .186. The spring is .312 long and .197 diameter.. The screw is hollowed out for the spring. The screw threads are 5/16 x 24 . Depth of the spring socket is .310. I think it is a stainless steel item.

I tried it out and the spring and bearing do hold the ignition switch in the on position.I hope you can find that hollow screw. it might be kind of difficult to make..... Thanks to your question I got one more project done to night

 

Dan I ran across this while looking for fender welting today. It was one of the few parts in the Roy Necewicz (Spelling?) enterprises catalog. You would need :
R-93-16 Ball Check Set Screw $9.95
M-92-14 Thin Lock Washer $ 1.95 ( That might be a N or W I can't read my own scribble)
R-94-17 Spring and Ball Check $3.50

http://www.fordscript.com/ford_bolts/catalogs/2015EV8FORDBOLTS.pdf

 

Thanks, I actually ordered all of that from Ray! He's a great guy, very helpful.

 

I have a problem with my '47 Ford steering lock...the original key won't unlock the lock. I made the 'mistake' of locking the durned thing and removing the key...
I had seen this problem in the '50s and '60s, but we had a great locksmith that came out to the shop, cut and filed a new key, and presto!
Glad you posted this, and the availability of small parts.
I need some parts too, evidently...NO 'old locksmiths' around this mud flat... (grrrr....)

 

Great ! I am happy the info was of use to you. The research also helped me out also!

 

"...the original key won't unlock the lock." Since the key worked well enough to lock it, probably you have a correct key that is totally worn out.
With the key number you can order a new key from one of the specialists in old Ford locks. First look at the door lock...originally that used same key as ignition, and it is much easier to get to than the ignition cylinder...but of course it may have been changed. Look at the rear edge of door right where lock cylinder lives. Down in a hole there you will see the # 10 set screw with allen head...unscrew that a few turns and you can pull the cylinder and read its code number.
If the locks no longer match, you will have to pull the ignition cylinder to get its number. Below th cylinder on the casting you will see a drive pin that holds it, fairly big head so you can drill a small hole, run in a tap, and put in a screw to wiggle the pin out. You can also destroy the pin by drilling and replace it with a set screw. Whatever you do, STOP DRILLING when brass comes out.
Nearly 100% of Ford cyliders are numbered. Most still function, and you can improve them by flushing with something like liquid wrench to float out the crud. This can be done in place, or done much better with lock pulled out.

 

lots of good info here by many. I have redone quite a few of these over the years and they can be tricky. Bruce says how to remove the drive pin. Some other items-if you break off the drive nails that hold the switch plate, they are near impossible to drill but the holes are deep-just drive em in further. I have found that a very light spring ( few coils only) under the chrome cap makes the switch operate much smoother-hope this info helps

 

Here's a somewhay unrelated steering column question, I would like to run a chrome steering column tube and I was wondering if any of you guys have found one that would work from .....say...... a plumbing supply house or some other industrial supply house. I really don't want to have the original one plated because of down time.

 

For the column, get a piece of Stainless exhaust tube and get to work with sandpaper and a buffer.

 

My approach would be to buy or borrow a column sheath and install it temporarily while you plate your original or have the new one plated and swap it out with the original. The column sheaths are not all that hard to find and you can sell off the extra when the project is done.

 

Hey, OL 55, if you have a large savings account, maybe you could find a stainless tube the proper diameter/length. Would look really good polished

 

OL55, here is another approach. I measured one of my columns and come up with 1.5" x 0.039 thick tube. The tube I found on the web sight below is made from 304 stainless and the dimensions are pretty close at 1.5 x 0.135 x 1.43 ID.

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=4462&step=4&showunits=inches&id=19&top_cat=0

 

Thanks guys.

 

I know this is an old post but I thought this might help someone I used ball plunger from mc master carr I think part #3408a18 it worked really well spring ball and screw all made together

 

Anyone have a column drop like this for sale?


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