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Technical 390fe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jhuebner, Sep 19, 2015.

  1. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Got the timing set, carb linkage sorted out wanted to give it a go around the block.......except the front brakes will not release guessing I need to clean up the calipers the car has been sitting awhile
     
  2. 48jeep
    Joined: Apr 3, 2009
    Posts: 66

    48jeep
    Member

    That year T-Bird is a great road car. Easy riding, my family had one in the late sixties.
     
  3. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Should be a good car have done alot of work getting it road worthy thought I had it ready now the brake issue, changed the booster and changed to a dual master cylinder had no problem with the brakes until now should have time within the next few days to look at em, we had a 64 in the early 70s story goes Dad drove it into a ditch to avoid a tractor going down the road with no lights on, car rolled over on its roof, Moms story Dad was drunk.
     
  4. If the front brakes aren't releasing with the new dual master cylinder installed, it could be a problem with the residue valve. Drum brakes require a 10 psi residual valve, and discs typically 2-3 psi. Could you have put a master cylinder designed from drums in by mistake?
     
  5. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Master cylinder is the correct type pushed the car many times in and out of the garage no problem with the new brake sytem installed, vehicle has been sitting past few months while rebuilding engine,I put some brake grease on the brake pistons and re installed the caliper now I cant turn wheel at all before took alot of pressure to turn, also tried to turn wheel after cracking bleeder valve open, was the same no rotation pushed the brake pedal fluid shot out some im getting fluid was also dripping fluid while I loosen the bleeder valve, both front wheels are the same takes alot of pressure to rotate, well now drivers side has no rotation, will try tomorrow to remove the caliper and apply the brakes and see jow much movement there is at the pistons, also checked the disc rotation while the caliper was off disc rotated without problem
     
  6. 54monarch
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 37

    54monarch
    Member
    from Calgary

    If the brakes don't release when you open the bleeders it is most likely the calipers. When I put on my front discs I installed a manual proportioning valve. It gives you a chance to fine tune how the brakes work for your application.
     
  7. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Good idea......I was lookin at getting a manual proportioning valve, just ordered a set of brake caliper rebuild kits, will push the pistons in tomorrow with a c clamp see what happens.
     
  8. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Pulled calipers today the pistons have a little grime, corrosion,rust etc......was able to get one piston on each side to pop out will work on the others tomorrow with some compressed air, right now have some WD40 sprayed on em, also put some sound deadening .material on the floor, some progresss.
     
  9. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Rebuilt the Birds calipers, new pistons & seals waiting for the new pads mean while got all the gauges working and illuminating
     
  10. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Got the brake issue sorted out changed everything, took a few trips around the block need to adjust the carb/gas pedal linkage 4 bbl was not kicking in
     
  11. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 7,836

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I accidently left that spacer on and it did not do any damage but it did not leave the garage,when I done it the fuel pump eccentric or what ever its called hit some ribs on the inside of the timing chain cover and sounded like a lifter tick. It took me a couple weeks to find it as the motor fell on installation denting the oil pan so I dropped the pan and changed the pan and pump thinking that was it but when it did not fix the noise I had to go back and think on what I done to the motor and the timing chain set was it.
     
  12. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Sometimes we learn by a mistake mine was costly got it back together will drive the hell out of it this year can't wait.......small world I grew up in Springfield, OH
     
  13. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 7,836

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I am glad you got it fixed and hope you get many miles of fun out of it,I do hope to get to your part of the world one of these days.
     
  14. barstowpo
    Joined: Jun 27, 2012
    Posts: 232

    barstowpo
    Member

    Nothing like a good running FE. I just got my 427 pistons yesterday.
     
  15. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Still having a brake issue, drove around the block a few times all seemed good so I drove a mile up the street and the brakes overheated, barley had enough power to drive the car home with the brakes smoking, pulled in the garage brakes smoking and such a nice smell 24 hours later still smell the brakes wheels and rotors were damn hot after they cooled some I raised the car all wheels rotate as they should, any suggestions on brake overheating issue.....everything is new.
     
  16. Have you adjusted the pedal? Had this happen to me on my 61. The system was all new from master out. Took a ride with my family and the car felt like I was towing a trailer, also the brake lights stayed on, but went of after everything cooled down and fluid could get back in the master. I looked in my repair manual and noticed ford had a tool to adjust the brake Rod. Iade one real quick out of cardboard and adjusted the rod....no problems after that
     
  17. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Will have to double check the rod length, I too made the adjuster tool from some cardboard and verified it against the old master cylinder and brake booster I guess no two are the same but .990"-.995" is the same no matter.....what a pain in the ass this has turned in to
     
  18. It would be worth a shot...btw same thing happened to a bud on his 64 Marauder....adjusted the brake pedal and its golden. Good Luck
     
  19. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

  20. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,625

    greybeard360
    Member

    If the fronts are still sticking.... loosen the brake line on the frame from the hose going to the caliper and see if it frees up. If the car has the original hoses on it they are probably collapsed inside.... just replace them and the rear one too.
     
  21. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    At the moment the car is on stands, wheels rotate free and I changed all the rubber and hard lines, M/C, brake booster, rear cylinders, front calipers, pads, fluid etc....as posted seemed fine till I drove alittle further than around the block
     
  22. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,304

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    I'n unclear how having the thrust washer in would bend a pushrod and "break" a lifter,
    How was the lifter "broken" ?
     
  23. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    With the washer installed with the Comp Cam timing gear the cam lobes are not properly aligned with the lifters, once I was told of this.I looked at the cam lobes and lifter contact area before I tore the motor down and could see the lobes were riding on the edge of the lifters, the motor rotated no problems or binding even the cam break in procedure went as should but once I drove it up to speed it took a dump, the Comp Cam gear has the washer integrated on it.
     
  24. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Some confuse the thrust plate as the washer/spacer I'm talking about....of course you have to use the thrust plate, I'm talking about a normal washer the shop manual calls it a spacer either way it goes between the cam and cam gear clearly shown in the shop manual 8-31
     
  25. Did you fill the master cylinder all the way so there isn't any airspace for the fluid to expand to? In my exp. either the brakes are set way too tight or there cylinder is too full that causes this problem. Good luck with your project. :)
     
  26. jhuebner
    Joined: Sep 19, 2015
    Posts: 35

    jhuebner

    Shorten the brake push rod went around the block 5 times, have to push the pedal pretty far to stop probably just need bleed brakes better, no overheating of the brakes, once I get someone over to help bleed the brakes will take it further one thing I noticed was when the car is in park and I apply the brake the revs go up from 650 rpm to 900 also when turning I lost power steering not every time just a few times
     

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