36 Rear Bones?

I have read for the last 2 nights all about why not to split rear bones. I am splitting mine. The question is on how to make them work. I was thinking of cutting them at the rear near the weld and putting a bung in it. And then a heim joint on the other end. Basically making them into a lower 4 link bar. Can i run a torque arm doing this or do i need to run a triangulated upper bar? Ill try to draw a pic of how i want to split them at rear. I understand the the reason they don't work. Just like to try and modify them to work. Also what or where is the best place to purchase a transverse style spring?


Thanks,
Ty

 

You can split them.
What cause trouble is when you mount them straight and to the outside of the frame - parallel .

You should run a torque arm to replace the structural integrity lost by removing the closed torque tube.

Some guys have used the bones for the lower part of a ladder bar style fabrication. But they should be mounted close together at the trans no matter what you do.

 

Many have run them split with tie rods at the front and no torque arm without problems. There is a thread which discusses them and their strengths in great detail.

 

This is a terrible drawing, but here was my idea. I was thinking of putting a bung in the front side with a heim/rod end.

 

heres mine

 

I would hate to see you cut up some 35-36 bones. If you decide to go this three link route you could use the 46-48 dipped front bones, i have seen them used for the rear, they are thick and strong.

 

This is not going to work correctly with a transverse rear spring.

Even if you make a 4 bar or torque arm, some of it will be in a bind at some point of travel.

The uppers and lowers would need to be exactly same length, and be positioned so that the spring does not bind a LOT during movements. It still would have some bind at the spring.


I need to ask: "Why" ?


Is it just so you can have bones running along the frame?

 

I planned to modify mine. I paid what they are worth, and IMO it's ok to modify something as long as it becomes something better. It's a fairly traditional approach.

 

I have no real reason "Why" other than i want to for the look. I am running fenders so actually they will be unseen.

 

I fail to see the differance wether it's a four bar, torque arm or split bones, all tranverse springs have a certain amount of bind no matter what. The only factor that really makes a differance in bind it how far the pivot is in front of the axle, the shorter the bar the more foward movement of the axle as it travels so the more bind there is.

Splitting the bones as little as possible (mounts as close as possible to the center of the frame) will help ride quaility a lot. It allows one wheel to travel up without trying to lift the other side. It also takes a lot of the stress off of them. I personally wouldn't mount them outside the rails even on a fenderless car, with fenders where you can't even see them why deal with a shitty ride.

 

The answer is in your post; The length of whatever he can fit in there, for the upper bars. It will be short, due to lack of room. So, to have minimal bind, the lowers will need to be as short (equal length), and this system will bind way more than the stock pivot on the closed drive had.


Seems like it's down to what 2 people think of the "look". I think a 35/6 rear arm looks best at stock angles; and he prefers them out at the rail.

 

Ok, what/where to buy a complete rear spring set up?

 

Type of spring depends on what" build style" Like a big arch like a T or A, or a shallow arch like 32 up?


Width of spring depends on:
How wide is the rear?
How wide are the tires and wheels

Many use a 40 style Ford FRONT spring in the rear. It sits a bit lower. I am using a 40 REAR spring, but I have a wide rear and narrow tires. That rear spring is wider across the car,than a front.




I don't buy new parts, but try Posies or Speedway

 

I have a 8" out of a 65 Mustang for rear end. 15x7 wheels and a 235/75 tire.

 

The Speedway medium arch spring is only 2"s wide vs 2 1/4 stock A width. Spring is to be mounted on top of rear.

 

from your illustration, it looks like you are just using the portion of the leaf spring mount,,,that has been done many times...no problem with that as long as that portion is mounted correctly to axle...,,if you are running fenders, use the rear portion of the bones for your leaf mount,,then just run a P&J ladder bar set up..simple,,

 

ok, we're on the same page, only differance I was referring to basic suspension geomitry on paper (4 bar as long as stock torque tube = no extra bind) and you are referring to real world fitting it in the car!

 

I've changed the plan as far as running them split to the outsides. I'm going to mount them off the trans crossmember in a triangular form. Now my ? is, do i need to run a torque arm?

 

Good plan, If its a parade car, no... If you plan on the occasional tromping, you'd better.

 

Yes to risky not to run top arm.
Here is a pic of mine.

 

Yes, run a torque arm and make sure it's front pivot point aligns with the front pivots of the bones. This way everything moves together and doesn't fight itself.

There are many threads on this topic with lots of helpful info and photos. Do a search.