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Technical '35-'40 Ford Front Axle Input & Suggestions Needed

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Inthemitten, Mar 18, 2016.

  1. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looking for some feedback on front end options to consider for my '38 Fordor Deluxe. Planning to stick with a straight axle front but wanted some input. Thoughts are split bones with a drop, but not sure which direction exactly to go.

    What have you had experience with and good luck? Any thing I should just completely stay away from aside from a MII IFS?
     
  2. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,176

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    PONTNAK123 and olscrounger like this.
  3. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,103

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    X2 on Chassis Engineering !
     
  4. X2 what Russco said. I used the dropped and narrowed axle. To get these cars low the wheels need to tuck in a bit. I used the Chassis Engineering 47" axle, with a Posies spring for a narrowed perch axle. I also used CE tube shocks, mounts, split bones brackets, sway bar. You can see the stance in my avatar.
    <----
     
    lothiandon1940 and olscrounger like this.

  5. There are several choices for a Dropped Axle. With it being a 38 you have cable brakes if it's still Stock. You'll have no problems using them if you choose to. My personal opinion is no need to split the wishbone. That was all started to help with Oil Pan room that is needed with some Motor changes. If your staying Flathead there is No Need for the exercise. I always advise doing Hyd. Brakes while your at it. You can use the reproduction 39 Pedals if you choose or go to 40 Pedal unit. They are easier to find and a lot less $$$ however you will need to change the clutch cross shaft in the Trans for the 40 unit.
    Keep it simple and keep driving it.
    The Wizzard
     
  6. Yeah, what pist-n-broke said... don't split the bones if you're not changing to a modern transmission. However, you will need to split the bones if you use the narrowed axle like I did. A little more complicated but I really wanted it to sit right.
     
  7. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Awesome! I'd say if 3 people respond immediately with CE then that's a good sign.
    @Dan Hay curious the route you or others went on the rear as well?
     
  8. Flatten the rear Spring crossmember
     
  9. On the rear I took 4-5 leaves out of the stock spring, and had a spring shop reverse the main leaf. I used 2" lowering shackles on the stock rear end. I also used a drake sway bar/tube shock kit because I couldn't weld at the time, it's all bolt on. Here's how it sits. I used 750 16s in the rear and 500/525 16s in the front.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great info! Yeah, the majority of this drivetrain will come out and be set aside for a future project with a total traditional flavor. I'm bordering restomod with the '38 I suppose, with drivetrain selection but am trying to keep as much of it traditional as I can.
    Totally going hydro brakes and plan to keep them floor/frame mounted for simplicity sake.
    Really good info. Thank you.
     
  11. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Digging on that stance. Will follow your build thread.
     
    Dan Hay likes this.
  12. I've done the long shackle years back. I remember even with a sway bar the car had a lot of body roll around corners and always had Tire Rub. Flattening the rear crossmember changes Nothing about how the car rides and handles. If you like the way it is K.I.S.S.
    The Wizzard
     
    Dan Hay and Inthemitten like this.
  13. Funny, I looked at a 38 Deluxe fordor before I bought this 40 Tudor. It was in better condition than my 40, but the seller was totally drunk on the price and wouldn't come down at all.
     
  14. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    '40 is just iconic so I think your choice was good. I stumbled on this one 15 mins from my house a couple years ago and couldn't pass it up. With a family, fat fenders was the deal. It's pretty darn solid with some small holes in the driver side floor. The rear pan will need some work too. Some filler in the deck lid. Proof is in the blasting I suppose.
     

    Attached Files:

    Dan Hay likes this.
  15. Neat old car... I dig the 38s/39 Standards.
     
  16. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,280

    metalman
    Member

    I use pretty much what Henry supplied, I'll split the bones for tranny clearance if needed, I fab my own brackets but the CE stuff is good if you don't want to or can't do it yourself. I get the stock axle dropped, generally cheaper then new aftermarket and I feel better with originals, least I know the weren't made overseas with unknown quality steel. Stock spring, main leaf reversed, play with the number of leaves till you get a good compromise between ride height and ride quality. I know guys hear don't like to hear it on here but upgrade brakes to disk, stock early hydrolic drums are OK in a light roadster or such but suck in today's traffic ( assuming you drive freeways) in bigger cars like your 38 and don't show under fat fenders anyway. Add some good shocks, a panhard rod to the front axle and a sway bar and it will handle as good as any Mustang II, cost less and look better IMHO.
     
  17. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,176

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    All good info given here. If you are changing out the drive train and losing the torque tube and banjo rear. CE also makes a nice parallel leaf kit for the back.
     
    Nailhead Jason and Inthemitten like this.
  18. Inthemitten
    Joined: Jun 13, 2014
    Posts: 35

    Inthemitten
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Really helpful info guys. Much appreciated.
    @metalman - yes discs for sure. Total family ride and I'm not compromising on the safety elements. Good tip on the additions to the frontend too!
     

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