I'm working on my 1955 cadillac 331. Machine shop put the bottom end together. I'm wondering if there's supposed to be a freeze plug in this hole? This is looking down the distributor hole, when I spin the oil pump I've got a lot of oil coming out in there and I'm not getting a ton of oil to the heads. Just want to make sure this is right? Thanks! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes, there should be a plug in there(cup shape), directly opposite that hole is another plug (back towards the rear of the block) that is used to access that missing plug when cleaning out your block. Your missing one seems to be quite common on rebuilds.
Beautiful! Glad I caught it now. Any idea on the size of the two plugs so I can get them at the parts store or do I need to pop out the rear one and measure both? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also, any other parts like that I should look for? He told me he'd put the freeze plugs in because there were a few odd ones. Figures he still missed one... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That plug was loose on my 390 so I tapped the oil galleries and installed socket head pipe plugs... of course you don't want to do that now that the engine is assembled.
So I found the plug is installed, it just leaks badly! After I get it out and hopefully don't drop it into the pan, but I'm considering pulling the pan and tapping it for a pipe plug anyway now that I know it's a trouble spot. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks like the same problem I had... you can use a 3/8 NPT tap on that oil gallery. Pull the large freeze plug out of the back of the block to access this area. Then pack the area below it with paper towels and use grease on the tap to catch the chips. I also pushed a wool .410 shotgun cleaning ball in past the area to be tapped before using cutting the threads. Take your time and be patient... don't go so deep that the plug will block the passages at the back of the block. Be sure to remove the "cleaning ball" from the oil gallery after using the tap; it should bring all of the chips in the gallery out with it. I checked everything in the area with a magnet and a bore scope looking for metal. Also, you might have to grind some off of hex end of the plug to get it to clear the distributor. Use a magnet to get all the metal out of the area around the dist. before pulling the towels out. And it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the pan when you're done.
Here's a follow up question. I made an oil pump printing tool, spinning it with an impact wrench. I was getting ten psi, now with the leak fixed I'm getting about 25 psi. I'm still not seeing a ton of oil at the rocker shafts. I made sure the shafts are assembled correctly. Is it normal for these to take a while to pump up? I ran the oil pump for five minutes straight. I was expecting a ton of oil. Everything is really just starting to look wet with oil. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sometimes you need to roll the crank while priming to get full oil flow. Even if not required it still helps ensure any oiling holes line up when rotating the crank. Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone
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