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Projects 33 Doll Build Page

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 33Doll, Mar 20, 2020.

  1. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,609

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Excellent!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  2. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 28,371

    loudbang
    Member

  3. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Yeah I did! My dad tried to repaint it with the original style black lacquer, but something happened, and it started cracking within a year or two within 10 years it starts flaking off like cancer!
     
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  4. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 1,012

    dwollam
    Member

    Yeah, the right front fender on my '40 Tudor is like that where Dad started restoring it one body part at a time. Glad it was just 1 fender!

    Dave
     
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  5. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Finally finished with all the rust replacement pieces. The Floor feet were the last. Now I can move on to less daunting Tasks! I Know this coronavirus thing sucks for most people, but if it wasn’t for me being at home these last six weeks, I would never have gotten this stuff done, I would’ve probably given up!
    Now everything should be small one day or two day tasks or stretched out and not be a big deal. Hopefully....,

    Next task is cleaning the scale,tar and rust off the floor boards, so I can fill all the holes that have been drilled in there over the years! There is alot! 40+ !

    IMG_9463.JPG IMG_9464.JPG IMG_9466.JPG IMG_9467.JPG IMG_9440.JPG Adjustments.JPG Adjustments.JPG IMG_9439.JPG
    IMG_9442.JPG
     
  6. sdroadster
    Joined: Jul 27, 2006
    Posts: 295

    sdroadster
    Member

    If you back up the hole you intend to weld with a piece of aluminum, the weld won't sag and bugger up on the bottom side. Some times, I use a screw jack to hold the aluminum in place, sometimes, long vice grips. Less to grind, and finish.
     
  7. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Thanks I like the screw jack Idea

    I got a nice thin piece of copper, and a couple of earth magnets also, I’ve been using to weld up a bunch of the rust holes I didn’t feel like patching.
     
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  8. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,322

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think most of those holes in the floor are original.
     
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  9. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Man I can’t figure out what most these holes were for, I know the obvious body mount ones, but this is my second sedan and the same bolts were Either missing, or a butt-load of holes weren’t used, some I know were for the original seats, (which I still have) a few for the buckets my dad put in, a few exhaust bracket holes. But still leaves alot of weird ones?
    IMG_9445.JPG Adjustments.JPG Adjustments.JPG
     
  10. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,322

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The same subrail stamping was used for the five-window and fordor with their shorter door. Those sets of three holes might have something to do with the B post being positioned in the forward position.

    The little 1/4" holes throughout the pan are for some sort of snaps for the carpet or mats.
     
  11. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    When there is a will, there is a way!
    IMG_9494.JPG IMG_9497.JPG IMG_9498.JPG IMG_9499.JPG IMG_9500.JPG IMG_9505.JPG IMG_9502.JPG IMG_9503.JPG

    Hmmm... work on body.... or chassis??
    Hmmm finish body... yes!
     
  12. Eldonius
    Joined: Apr 15, 2020
    Posts: 61

    Eldonius
    Member
    from Louisiana

    Looking good! Curious if you are planning to box your frame? And, do you mind sharing what drivetrain you are planning? Contemplating options for my own...torn on using the existing frame, boxing it, or buying a new boxed frame.



    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  13. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    I’m pretty much leaving it alone, other then a few improvements, and changes. I have a later Flathead and 3 speed with an open drive setup
    I will be pinching and moving the rear wish bones in about 10” apart. So I will box it where I put a cross member, in with a jog around the drive shaft, also I need to re work the emergency brake set up.
    My Dad tied it into the old mechanical brake distribution shaft, so it actually push’s the brake pedal down, and doesn’t really do anything. It bleeds down after awhile then it could roll.
    It needs to be separate from the Master cylinder linkage. Its Goofy, ( although it looks kinda cool) I’m leaving the 53-56 F-100 box because its nice and tight and really easy to steer. Other wise Id probably go to a Vega cross steer set up. I’m trying to preserve the Nostalgia, and what my Dad did but make it a bit safer. Otherwise I would just start over and do it completely different.
    I really like SoCal speed shop style chassis setup if I had money
    Hope that helps?
    [​IMG]
     
  14. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Started taking the Quarter Windows out so I can start cleaning/de rusting the inside of the body, and man I found nice shiny black paint! Regulators, and wood are still like new! Kinda like a time machine behind things! Cool!
    IMG_9513.JPG IMG_9512.JPG IMG_9514.JPG IMG_9515.JPG
     
  15. Eldonius
    Joined: Apr 15, 2020
    Posts: 61

    Eldonius
    Member
    from Louisiana

    Ya that does help. Thanks! Great build thread btw!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  16. Love the pics, and details. You're progressing quite well. Keep it up.
     
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  17. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Thanks! Sure hope my neighbor doesn’t want his sawhorses back very soon LOL!
     
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  18. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 28,371

    loudbang
    Member

    I would get the frame ready FIRST. If you do the body first then the frame when you go to put the "Fixed" body back on the frame "Things" always have moved around a bit and you have to go back and work on the body AGAIN. :)
     
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  19. sdroadster
    Joined: Jul 27, 2006
    Posts: 295

    sdroadster
    Member

    What I have done in the past is build the chassis. Fix it, paint it, and finish your design work. Then get a roll of heavy black visqueen, and cover the chassis. Poke bolt holes in it, and mount the body. Finish your body work, make a mess etc. When your done, razor blade off the visqueen, and your build will look brand new assembled, with no primer, or wet sanding residue on the works.
     
  20. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Has anyone ever rebuilt one of these?
    It looks like a non-serviceable part so I have to machine some bushings, looks like pressed in Rivet style shaft pins, So assume grind off one end and punch it out like normal? But about these spot welded c- style? Do think they will fit through the hole when I remove the ends, and press out the bronze bushings inside? Or do they have to come off the shaft too? heres an exploded view
    View attachment 4667780
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2020
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  21. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

  22. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    chryslerfan55 and Stogy like this.
  23. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Cleaning and looking closer loos like I answered some of my own question!
    It looks like I remove the ends, or maybe just one end, and c bushings will fit through the main bushing housings!
    Hopefully!
    Adjustments.JPG Adjustments.JPG
     
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  24. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    It kicked my butt, but I won!

    Had to grind both heads off and drill the pin out, it was more like a rivet, would not budge! With force, heat Cursing!!!
    Probably gonna have replace with bolts, and tack weld the nut, I don’t know if its cast steel, or Iron.
    But, now I can machine some new bushings!
    Adjustments.JPG
     
  25. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Can’t believe my wife Found the size I was looking for on Amazon!
    I looked all over the net! Even looked on Amazon my self, couldn’t find it. She scrolled through 25 pages at the bottom of like item
    Bushings, and found the right size! Good Woman!
    2.87$ a piece! I bought 4 just for fun!
    We will see if It works on this shaft!
    IMG_9535.JPG Adjustments.JPG Adjustments.JPG
     
    chryslerfan55, brEad, Stogy and 4 others like this.
  26. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 5,166

    -Brent-
    Member

    I don't think I have ever purchased hot rod parts on Amazon. Love it! She's dedicated or very bored...hahaha.
     
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  27. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,206

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Those pins are sweged in the hole, just like the pins that hold the yokes on the drive shafts.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  28. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    I buy all kinds of small stuff on there for my cars, its amazing what you will find if you search enough! My Crab Distributor cap, rotor, flame thrower coil, petronnix for a Flathead, odd light bulbs for older cars, etc. tools, rubber grommets, it goes on, snd usually a couple days
     
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  29. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Boy Howdy! They were in there!
    I wonder if when they made those the rivet/ pins were red hot when they used the clamping tool, like the old movies you see with hot rivets?
     
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  30. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 469

    33Doll

    Man I scored!
    My buddy at work used to work at a four-wheel-drive fab shop, he Adjustments.JPG IMG_9559.JPG gave me these HEim joints-so now I can pinch my wishbones in the rear and change out the tie rods for these nice Heim joints!
    and I got this nice piece of tubing, heavy wall, to build a cross brace!
     
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