Condolences, my Mom passed in 2011, the hurt gets less with every passing year so hang in there. I would make a display of those with a photo of the car as it was then in the center with the plaques surrounding it. My kids will have a similar problem as I have a little over 200 dating back to 1980.
Sorry to hear about your mom. A part of her will live on in your 33. Save them dash plaques every one of them are a part of your cars history.
Hey guys thanks for all the condolences on my mom it’s been about three weeks now still rough but feeling better now I’m making plans to spend money on the car since that’s what she would want. So see my next post about brake lines thanks!
Brake line Help! Please? So right now the 33’ Doll has 40 Ford brakes with 48 hubs, since I’m coming into some money now I decided to change things up a bit. I want to buy the new Bendix Lincoln brakes from speedway and the aluminum buick style drums. And run a 1967 drum drum manual dual master cylinder from a mustang. Currently everything is quarter inch line and fittings, except for the mustang rear end that has 3/16 at the junction block. Should I just keep the existing system, and just plum it for dual lines at the master cylinder, or run all new lines and go to 3/16? I was just thinking, wont it be harder to push the brakes, with a smaller line? Also with Bendix brakes in the front now, it’s probably going to lock up really easy, so do I need a proportioning valve? And while I’m at it put in a residual valve? I heard 10 pound for drums? I really don’t wanna go over the top crazy, (AN Stainless all that) but I want it to be nice also? I was thinking just replacing the quarter inch tubing and just keep the existing set up, just plum it for a dual right at the master cylinder. also on a dual master, where do you put the pressure switch? Thanks Rick
I actually remember alot odf the Andys Picnic ones, even the one in 72’ even though I was only 3! I have an old photo album of that rod run, I’ll post some pics when I get a chance! Slot mags, side burns, mustaches, fat tires front and back lots of fun! Raised white letter hell!
My mustang drum master has the residual valves in it. Brakes work on displaced volume not pressure, 3/16" lines will work fine. Just make sure you get the right size master cylinder bore. I ran my brake light switch on the rear lines, because if the stupid thing decides to leak it won't make as much difference in stopping power. (Front brakes do 70% of the work) Some say you need a bias valve some say you don't. I am running the front and rear brakes from a 55 F100. I skipped the valve. If I need it it is easy to add later.
The bias valve(proportioning valve) is more a safety issue. The "dual" master cylinder is really a single with two chambers. The front portion relies on pressure building in the rear chamber to seal up. Both must seal to give brakes. The valve has a slider in side to close off the system (front or rear) that has a leak/failure and give you at least partial brakes. I always run the same valve as came in the donor vehicle. In your case I would run the 67 Mustang valve along with the drum/drum master.
The 1/4” lines will work fine with four wheel drums. Ran basically the same setup on my A. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I’m thinking I’m gonna leave all the junctions, and brackets, and just run new line front and rear so its split to the new mustang Dual master. And replace the front hoses with new ones, maybe eliminate that little short fourth one on the x-member, its really not necessary. Just holds a bracket, I can use regular line clamps. Yeah....yeah! Me thinks thats what ima gonna do Boss!
If it was mine I'd probably run all new lines just cause you are under there and those are old. I'd probably use 3/16" cause that's what the rear and the master were made for. When you need to neck it down into the master ports, get he proper odd size nuts so you can eliminate some leak points (extra adapters). Yes, put a 10 lb residual valve in the front and the back. For a brake light switch I like the lever switches that ride on the brake arm, not a hydraulic switch. Do a search on failing hydraulic switches. I screw the switch (from a '58 Chevy big truck) to the bottom of the toeboard and the arm rests on the pedal arm upright.
Here's a picture of a Chevy brake light switch screwed to the floor board as referred to above. I have a different take on brake line size tho; I'd run 1/4" from the master to the rear junction block, 3/16" as it is on the axle, and 1/4" to the front due to the large bore wheel cylinders on those repop Lincoln's (tho 3/16" would probably be OK) Maybe address that routing of that line and hose(why?) set-up going from the master to the right side.
Is that switch spring loaded? Just resting on the pedal arm? And Im a little confused as to what’s wrong with a line pressure switch? It always worked before. If the brakes go out?.. well at that point i don’t really care if the brake lights work? Unless it serves another purpose Im not aware of? Just wondering. Thanks Rick
The arm on the GM switch is spring loaded, as it is released it turns on. They are made in both left and right hand arrangements; and it is easy to find quality old stock switches instead of low quality import switches. Hydraulic brake switches used to work fine; but it seems the quality is lacking in the currently produced switches. It is has been stated here and on other forums that they are more prone to leak, that the pressure to activate the lights is too high (don't work on light pedal applications), and the contacts are no longer robust and arc out and fail from the current (that's the reason for some people using relays on the brake lights now). Still hyd switches are easy to fit and your old switch may work just fine for you; also easy to change if the need arises.
Its on ebay, have not ordered it yet. This is all could find. Hope they are still in business Also did a web search Found this. Let me know if they are still in business if you call them, I’m still waiting for money Thanks Rick
Cool! Solved my rear seat problem! A jeep Yj rear baja seat to go with China Bill’s Mustang Buckets ! And still give me that 60’s look I”m going for! Plus its smaller so maybe I can hide the battery back there, and tools. Get it out of the floor hole! Also way cheaper then glide, and wise guys! (Also looks cheaper, but hey it was the 60”s!) I don’t want a modern street rod look any how! Trust me it will still look cool! And once I get the car done I will find an old-school Mexican tuck and roll upholstery shop And make it all blend! Cool.... Holmes!
Cool! Got most of the crossmember welded in and it looks pretty Bitchin!little artsy but hey! The wife says what are the little holes for? And I said “it’s art!” I don’t really think I need the outer braces now? What do you think is it overkill? I have four of them two for the top and two for the bottom
Welp! Got a “little” work done on the 33’! Darn life gets in the way! Everything likes to break at the same time! like the ice machine in the fridge, the weedeater! Sure hope the lawnmower isn’t next! Anyway.... Got the old 40 style single bowl master cylinder bracket cut off, and got a new bracket fabbed up for the later Ford dual master cylinder all roughed out for now! No worries it’ll be all pretty with the edges cleaned up and 45’d and all that fluffy stuff!
super run '83 was the big happening in SRM, as a newbe I bought every issue... read 'em to flannel...
I get asked about the holes in my F-1's bumper, I just tell them they're Speed Holes. "Cool! Got most of the crossmember welded in and it looks pretty Bitchin!little artsy but hey! The wife says what are the little holes for? And I said “it’s art!”"
With all those holes under there, don’t be surprised if you hear a whistle from under the car at around 65-70 mph. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I Have a Brake plan.... not as nice drawing as some, but I understand it! -Corvette Style universal Dual Res. With ports on both sides! -2 10lb residual valves -brass Tee for pressure switch -All 1/4 line... (except rearend) Rear: -67-70 8” -1967 Mustang 3/16 pre-bent lines -1967-72 F-100 breather Junction block and hose Front: -40’s Style Speedway 12” Lincoln brakes With aluminum Buick style finned drums
That looks like someone has been down that road before and has chosen to 'map' the route this time, great work! Don't forget part #s once you buy the stuff, so you can replace on down the road.
The Jalopy Journal
