Well it appears that the diff that has come in my 33 has the guts missing and I also need a torque tube and driveshaft as well as brakes etc so its a real oppurtunity to spend money once and do it right. The car came with a rebuilt 35 diff set up but the advice I have is that its a fair bit of work to fit, so I'd probably sell that off as if Im going to do the work I want the best outcome possible. Having stated that what are my options for a new complete diff set up without going to a late 9" etc. Ultimately I'll be going with a warm flatty and a T5 with open drive so that would have to be part of the consideration. If anyone has a complete T5 bolt up for a 36 V8 let me know. Thanks guys as always appreciate the help.
Why the T5 and open drive? I dont understand why its too hard to fix the rear you have but its not too hard to put in a T5 and an open drive. 'I would' buy a QC centre, use the guts from the 35 you have, shorten the torque tube and drive shaft from the 35, attach you 33 bones to the shortened tube and your done. I highly recommend the NZ centres, I have one and its a very nice item. You asked for options, this is the one I would take, I just dont dig this whole T5 thing.
Thats why I love the HAMB, hadnt considered that option. What did your centre run you mate? My only concern is that I want this car on an A class licence if possible. The QC might look a tad non stock lol.
I think $1800 landed from NZ. Great guy to deal with also. I dont know what A class lic is, but yeah may look un-stock and you cant just swap out a stock centre as it lowers/lengthens the torque tube due to the drop...........scrap my option, I just remembered that you may have rear x-member clearance problems.
Find a complete 33-34 rearend to rob parts from, and get a new set of 3.54 gears from the old Ford parts jobbers (Joblot in New York). You will thank me later. Using parts from later model rearends (post 35 to 48) requires a lot of measuring and custom machining, which is hard to do clear across the globe. I had a fella machine a '48 ring and pinion (3.78) to fit a 32-34 rear, so it can be done, but buying the new direct fit 3.54 would probably be cheaper in the end.
I have a '40 Ford rear and a rebuilt T5 going behind my Flathead. I'd probably put a '39+ trans if I didn't have the T5 in it but since I have one and the adapters I am going to use it. I can attest to a T5 behind a flathead. They really work well together and allow the car to become even more drivable then it would be with a 3spd. I can also attest to a '40 rear and how snug the tires become to the rear wheel wells which looks killer. I'll make sure my rear is a '40 before you go out and get one but yeah it looks great. In my '35 I have a 3.54 R&P with a 3spd and I think that'll work out pretty good. But it'll work so well because the 265 Chevy is rated on the low end at 225hp which means the non synchro'd first gear won't be much of a problem if I get stuck up a hill. Shit I might only use the last two gears!
Pete, The T-5 transmission will not fit the 33-34 transmission saddle! You will need to modify or remove. I have a 35-36 rear in my car with shortened bones and shortened drive shaft/torque tube. Have you looked at the T-5 conversion that Crazydaddyo does. The kit allows you to run the T-5 to a torque tube. Slick system, it will allow you to run what ever Banjo rear you would like without having to completely design a whole new rear suspension. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226&highlight=jeep Build your own adapter for the flathead to T-5 hook up. Just buy a Hogshead from a 8BA motor and purchase a 7/8" thick aluminum plate. With a little careful measuring and some basic machine work, there you are.
Yeah I think I am going to get that crazydaddyo conversion for my coupe. I can't see having those whole mid 40's vibe going and seeing a driveshaft spinning under there....but then again, there will be a bright aluminum T5 sitting there too but that's besides the point.
I'll opt for the flat black any time I can...you know me!!!! I figured I'd just paint it. It doesn't really matter if it's sticking out like a sore thumb or not. I just love the look of a Torque tube in Hot Rods!
Hey Guys thanks. Google Map and you'll find me The car is headed to Australia not here so the parts issue shouldn't be so bad. Thats some great advice guys. Thanks. Guys the T5 you are using is that the one from a jeep? If so what should I be chasing up? Clutch and pressure plates??? Have PM'd CrazyDaddo re his adaptor as that looks like the bomb. So flat balck paint and no one will know its a 5 speed, with the 3.54 gears (thanks alchemy) in the rear its hould cruise nicley at 65mph which is all I want.
Pete, The kit that CrazDaddyo is making is for the S-10 4WD transmission. He made a couple for the Jeep, but he is not making anymore of them, something about sourcing problems. The S-10 seems to be work fine. There are a couple kits available for the T-5 to flathead from sources like Speedway, Cornhuskers, .... I built my own. I used a Hogshead from a 48-53 8BA, then a 7/8" thick Aluminum plate machined to fit. The flywheel and pressure plate is Ford 8BA, the clutch disk will be S-10. The clutch will have to be custom made, but there are suppliers that are making them now for this specific application. As far as the TT and driveshaft, don't bother trying to source an original 33-34 assembly to just have to cut it down to fit the new transmission. Any TT and driveshaft will do, preferable one with a solid shaft and the same spline as the rear input.
Thanks mate, thats great info. Hoping to buy as much bolt together parts as I can as Im no machinest etc. Has anyone got direct experience with the Speeway kit? Its considerably cheaper then the Cornhusker version but I know the reputation of both companies seems rather different and only want to spend my $ once.
I have experience with the Speedway kit. We put it in my Merc when we had it. I think it worked great and had no issues with it during that time other then a little throw out bearing whine. I think that if I went to a modern style pressure plate with a ton of teeth that would have been the key to getting rid of that noise. I might mention that the kit I had was not a total kit from Speedway. it was the adapter and my friend Jeremy threw together the rest which worked great with the Mechanical clutch linkage mated to the stock Merc stuff. Once again for my '33 I'll be using the Speedway stuff because it came with the car. Hmmmm, if I have to get a 4wdr T5 I might be outsville. I already have a rebuilt s-10 trans so I can't see myself getting rid of it and sourcing another. Unless someone were to trade straight up...then I would do it.
Thanks JJ, great feedback. Hoping to pick up a complete kit if possible to keep it simple, bit like me Is the shifter location OK with with the S10 tranny, I seem top recall in other fitments this might be an issue?
S-10 is the one you want because the tail shaft put the shifter in a very close approximation to where a '39 Trans would be. The Mustang would put it firther back towards the seat like a Muncie. I can say that the Speedway stuff is sometimes hit or miss it seems. One guy can have great luck and another has to work some of the bugs out to get it to function properly. The Cornhusker kit is more expensive but I havn't heard anyone say that their kit was working right so keep that in mind. I will tell you that Cornhusker will not help you troubleshoot a speedway kit as I have tried. Understandable but I wish I could have gotten some info out of them.
Pete the kit made in New Zealand may be easier for you to acquire. http://macsspeed.com/adapters_2.html Also research for "Dwight Bond" here on the HAMB. He made the simple plate adapters that I fashioned my adapter plate after. Also watch for them on Ebay, they are up there quite often.
have heard good things with the macs supplied unit, and when combined with the falcon T5 (EA-EL) 6 cylinder 5 speed, will work great. I understand and appreciate the desire for keeping the torque tube, and see it as you having two options, you either go down the path that was mentioned and source a adaptor unit via crazydaddyo, and have a machinist trim what you have to suit, looks great, achieveable, functional, but will take a outlay upfront for the adaption, or, for similar total outlay, go for the open drive option, with the macs adaptor, a cheap falcon 6 5 speed, and a quickchange. Either way has good and bad points, both will still require you to update the mechanical brakes to hydraulic in interest of drivability. No easy options, but, both worth the heartache if you make the effort. Your call, trust the above assists, Drewfus
Yeah mate as always your input is greatly apprecaited. Thanks. Just going to take a couple of days and think this through. Ordering my tyres tomorrow and have bought a dropped axle. Will order up a set of Bendix brakes for the front too, with most likely going 40's on the rear.
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