Condensers for all Model A grilles are designed to appear like fins of a radiator. You see fins and don't realize they are part of a condenser, with the radiator mounted directly behind.
You could do a common car disc brake swap and run 16" wheel . put a snap on dually simulator to match the rears. paint them or leave the stainless. I was going to do this but I found the parts to put F350 disc on my 1934 BB.
Are you set on having dual rear tires? Just from looking at pictures on here it seems like if you just ran the inner dual on a modern axle you would end up sitting at about the stock width. I like the look of the wheel dished in with the full float hub sticking way out in the breeze on an old flatbed truck. If you are worried about load carrying capacity check out wheels from these guys: http://www.ricksontruckwheels.com/index.php . If you ran a 8R19.5 you should have a correctish looking truck tire rated for 3500 lbs EACH. At that point you are nearing the capacity of a Dana 60 or 14 bolt anyways.
Rat Rod? Maybe? Just building a hot rod to what i want with what i can find with help from other rodders. Mostly just glad i still can.
Anyone with a jig can narrow even a full-float housing. Several companies make 30 and 35 spline cut-to-fit axles for full-float Dana axles. I narrowed a Dana 60HD dually to 58" once.
Well so far only part i have gotten that i will for sure use is the radiator. Its very nice said to cool BBC and AC, trans and phony water neck.
Yes nice to. Do you know were i can get the long splash and running board. I thought i saw somewere but cant find now.
I worked for a guy who had a 31AA he used as a daily, and as a truck. It had a 16 foot bed. Duals, larger than stock tires and a huge winch and bumper. A nice, era correct Truck. Under the hood was a stroked 351w, hooked to a stock trans, and a two speed rear end. Brakes were mechanical. He hauled and towed anything anywhere, including over the chp scales numerous times.
Wow stock trans and brakes in todays traffic? Good to know it can be done. Henry Ford was preety amazing. I can hardly drive mine, double clutching, tuning carb and planing stops way ahead. It does get there even if only at 0-35 in 60 sec.
I know Rootlieb used to make the long running boards, but don't know if they still do. Might check with them. The long splash aprons probably will need to be fabricated, but that shouldn't be too difficult for someone with a long enough sheet metal brake.
A sheet metal brake alone would not do the splash aprons, especially not the contour. For something that length, an English wheel with a high crown anvil and a strip of inner truck tubing on the upper wheel would produce the best results. To create any flanges, an electric bead roller with tipping dies would be most suitable.
Well found some 1979 1 ton front spindels and before i tear apart my AA was hoping to find out What is stock king pin dia. On AA its bigger that .8125 The 1979 are 1.055 i thing 3/4 tons and e350 are smaller
Wingedexpress info was rite on. F350 spindle are adaptable. AA king pins are 1.005 and F350's are 1.055. You can do single style or dually style rotors. On the dully style the hat part comes off and looks like you can face off about .5 to fit the AA. I think the BB fenders are a little wider.
Anyone got a axle for sale? 30-34 big truck. I would like to bore out one and save mine. Truck still moves under its own power.
My steering drag link clears my wish bone ,but not much. My axle was dropped 2 1/4". You may want to check yours before you buy many parts. You may be able to heat and bend the f350 spindle steering arms? my drag link goes over the bones.
Ok front axle figured out now on to steering. Using a gm 605 power steering box because it fit Vega mount. Question is should i just weld on the rod end tapered bung to end of passenger spindle? Or do a idler arm on passenger side and make a center bar for two short tierods? I know either way i need panhard bar. Spindles are great steel and we heat them all the time on the hotrods so i am leaning to just weld bung?
I'm using a GM 525 box . I have a speedway tie rod end that has a Bung for another tie rod in the side. I have to machine an adapter for the taper as the f350 is larger. So far it looks good and seems like it will work fine.
525 manual version of 605 i have the speedway pittman arm too, there taper reamer opened mine for ford tie rod end. What are you doing for passenger spindle? It does need one more tapered bung? Maybe i did not unerstand what you meant
When I was in the trucking business, and we wanted to beef up a truck, or stretched a frame, we just sleeved the frame with 1/4" sheet steel bent into a L the height of the frame, and as wide as the flanges. Bolting all the body mounts, spring hangers and such through it was plenty to hold it in place. This was on class 7 and 8 trucks. 60s one ton International used the same bolt pattern as a model AA, as did Dodge chassis for motor homes into the 80s. For disc brakes in front you can make an adapter that bolts to the back of the front hub with a bolt pattern to fit a later 3/4 ton Ford rotor, similar to what Chevy did on one tons in the 60s The wheels you have are not "widow makes" but are split rims. If they are not rusty, any truck shop will mount new tires on them, but you must use radial tubes with radial tires, and you must use tubes. These are widow makers and were not invented until the late 40s
Update on my AA. I moved to Idaho everything in storage. I have made many trips from Washington and now everything is in Idaho. I am going crazy waiting for permits to build. This coming weekend I am going to go see if I can measure roof so I can make a steel one. Also deciding on trans, I have a new 200r4 to go with the SBC. They were both for another build I think I need a 700r4 for the truck? Leaves me with a 200r4 and no build for it. Do you guys think the 200 will hold up?
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