We tried putting the 302 in the '47 tonight. Thought I had the right rear sump pan. NOPE. The pan rested on the front cross member. So we pulled it off and put the motor and trans in without it. It looks like there's about 1/2" clearance between the pump and the cross member. Has anyone made this conversion? When I redo the front of the pan am I just going to hit in back too? Is there a lower profile oil pump? Can it be relocated? Thanks.
save that SBF for a mullet-stang and drop in that 324/hydra-matic you got... BTW i found a dipstick tube for that tranny-george
Alter the cross member. If you can't make the piece fit the package them make the package fit the piece.
Virtually every later-model (post-1973) Mustang pan has a rear (actually a double) sump setup. The pan and pickups are available widely and are not usually too expensive. The front part of the sump is very close to the oil pump. If you have a half inch from the pump, you are within a hair of having it fit ok already. Good luck.
What they said. You want either the early Bronco/Econoline rear sump pan or the later Mustang camel-hump-sump pan. Be sure to get the correct oil pickup assembly that goes with the pan. I'm not sure that the oil pumps themselves are any different.
The pan I have is definitely a rear sump. So far, it's just that the front is too tall. And it's definitely the shorter end. It's looking like some surgery is on order. Cutting the pan is easy. Now I guess the question is ..... How much room do I need to leave below the oil pump? Can it all but touch? I would guess it just cannot touch the pan. HEy Zonk did you get my last email and letter?
[ QUOTE ] save that SBF for a mullet-stang [/ QUOTE ] I like that! We were joking around about calling the car J-Low because of it's big ghetto booty.
[ QUOTE ] How much room do I need to leave below the oil pump? Can it all but touch? I would guess it just cannot touch the pan. [/ QUOTE ] I run a double-hump late-model pan on a 351W w/Hi-Vol pump & whomever I got the pump from (Melling?), used the wrong cover bolts. They're 'sposed to be flathead & sit flush with the cover, but someone used regular bolts in this one. I didn't notice it until I tightened down the pan & had dimples appear (to include a tiny crack). I was in a hurry, so just put it on with some JB Weld over the crack for the time being with every intention of fixing it two months later when I had some down time. 13 years later, it's still fine and no leaks! So I guess it COULD touch the pan! Basically, there's probably less than 1/4" clearance w/a hi-vol pump. A std vol pump will obviouly have a bit more clearance, but I don't have any lying around to compare. How much clearance do you think you need to get the engine down where you want it? If it's more than 3/8" - you might start thinking about cutting on the crossmember because you still need a bit of clearance for the engine movement (unless you're running solid mounts).
Flat Ernie... The motor is where it needs to be now and has just over 1/2" between the pump and the cross member. I'm just going to cut and paste the pan 'til it works. thanks!
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