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Projects 29 Tudor first build thread.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Timken, May 28, 2017.

  1. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member

    Hey guys, my name is Kris, I'm 29 years old. Since I was a kid I have always loved the tudors. I have decided to finally try building one. I'm not really sure what my plans are here for the final
    look . I like the really low double z frames but I want the car to be drivable. Do I slam it for looks or do I make a fun car that drives well??? I picked up this rough complete body locally for what I believe to be a fair price. I'm going to need some encouragement and help along the way. I have a feeling it will be a long project. I'm preparing it for the sandblaster now. Here are a few pics of what I'm starting with. I have already removed all the seats and some glass prior to taking the photos. My goal for today is to get it taken apart and cleaned up for the media blaster. I'm nervous to see how much of the car is left after blasting



    IMG_3100.JPG IMG_3101.JPG IMG_3102.JPG IMG_3115.JPG
     
    120mm likes this.
  2. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 3,387

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looks good,
    Here in New England that body is not bad at all, looks to need subrails,
    treat those garnish moldings carefully as they are getting harder to find...
    didn't see a '29 visor, before you run out to buy the [2] piece '29 take a look at '30s...
    IMO... a slightly tilted back '30-'31 visor looks good and lets you see the traffic lights a little better...
     
  3. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 3,387

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Found a '30 tudor with a visor pic... 4.5" haircut 3o tudor dave d.JPG
     
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  4. spurgeonforge
    Joined: Oct 18, 2013
    Posts: 415

    spurgeonforge
    Member

    Welcome to the hamb Kris. Good luck with your Tudor. I've been collecting parts to finish my Tudor as well. Keep at it. You will find your tastes well change. I started out wanting heavy chop fenderless to stocker. Again welcome. Bill
     
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  5. panheadguy
    Joined: Jan 8, 2005
    Posts: 957

    panheadguy
    Member
    from S.E. WI

    Have your blaster dude focus on the bad stuff and stay away from the flat body panels.
     
    Michael Crown likes this.
  6. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 3,387

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    phg has that right...
     
  7. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member

    Thanks guys, I will make sure to ask him to be easy on the big panels. It's actually a hot rod paint shop doing the blasting...hopefully the man knows what he is doing.

    Sloppy J- There was a visor. I had removed it along with the seats before my post.

    I spent all day working in the garage. I pulled all the glass, regulators, window garnishings, rear window triangles, rear seat riser and rear floor pan, doors, latches, dash, visor, wood flooring, spare tire carrier, all the componets that were on the firewall I have removed most of the wood inside the cab as well

    Before sand blasting should unbolt the gas tank or just cut it out? I won't be using it during the build

    Thanks
    Kris
     

    Attached Files:

  8. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 3,387

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    nice stuff... gonna be a "hot" rod...
    look closely on the lower left, driver's side of your gastank / firewall...
    about 6" or so in and about 1" above the lip the date of the car's / gastank's manufacture is stamped into the "firewall"... tank could have been changed...
    wirebrush, white paint then sand paper on a flat wooden block... should give you her birthday...
    memory says it goes... day-month-year...
     
    jp52 likes this.
  9. Maybe reconsider your double Z slammed look and go for a mildly chopped, full fendered hot rod sedan. Fun car to drive and will be still be pertinent when the squashed bug fad is over. Just Saying:)
     
  10. I wish my tetanus Tudor was as complete at that one. I get sick when I see a nice car cut to shit because I had shit car money to start with and have a few nice parts in mine. The restorers didn't want what I started with and they criticize what I have done with the shit that I have.
    My opinion, not my money, NO Z or just slight at the rear, 3 inch haircut, highboy.
    Powerplant will be your money will show you what you can afford and/or are experienced with. I don't have Hemi money or parts laying around.
    Have fun with your car and how you picture it in your mind. Build it to be safe.
     
    jp52 likes this.
  11. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member


    Thank you for the tip, I always thought it was a 29.....turns out it was made made July 13th 1928! Which means this car was made on a friday
     
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  12. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 3,387

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    you gonna call her Friday the 13th ?
     
    120mm likes this.
  13. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member

    You know, I think I just might caller her Friday the 13th !
     
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  14. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member

    Okay. I am about to order some body patch panels and subrails. The car is going to be channeled 4"

    My question is...
    A Do I order full length subrails??
    B. Do I order half length and patch the front portion on the passenger side??
    C. Do I patch it all rather than replace?

    Also, I couldn't find a panel that filled in the rear inner fender to give it a flush fit...do they even sell that piece or do most guys just cut and bend to fit. I saw they have the orginal stamped inner fender but would prefer the smooth look.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Since you are channelling it; easiest to build a tube subframe on top of the frame rails, tie in the A & B pillars, fab up some rocker panels, and build sheet metal fillers to tie the lower cowl & quarter panels to the new subframe. Kinda play it as it goes around the rear and how it goes together with the frame Z.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  16. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 3,387

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As you channel the body the inside edges of your B pillars will get further apart, you will need to add to the lower edges, you may have to trim off a little of the subfloor where the B pillar rivets to it to let the B pillar clear it on the way down...
    I also like to set a chunk of wooden 2" x 4" under the square tube crossrails that will be welded to the A and B pillars for support... a 4" channel plus the thickness of the wood blocks lifts the crossrails so later you can slide and shim the 2" x 4" blocks inboard letting you build the new subfloor...
    .
    For the wheelwells I used 2003 Mercury Sable trunk lids they were both free when I bought a $100 junkyard roof for an insert, they filled the wheelwell opening and have a sexy little flare at the trailing now lower edge......
     
  17. welcome and keep us posted.
     
  18. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member

    I know I haven't posted in a few days but I'm loading the car on a trailer today to drop off at the body shop for blasting and priming. There is a swap meet today that I was wanting to attend. I want some 1940 smoothies for the ride and a differential but I just have too much to do to make a 2 hour drive there. I told the body shop I want to see the car before it got primed. Will post pictures soon.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  19. tikiwagon13
    Joined: Feb 23, 2011
    Posts: 371

    tikiwagon13
    Member

    1928 Ford Model A Sedan rat rod copy.jpg Here is mine, 6 inch kick up in the front 12 inch kickup in the rear. 4" chop and 4" channel. I drive this thing everywhere and it drives great, in fact I have less clearance issues in this then my wagon.
     
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  20. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member

    Love that look.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  21. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,175

    stubbsrodandcustom
    Member
    from Spring tx

    Double z is ok. Gain interior room with a frame like mine. 5" channel and 4" haircut. Frames strong as a brick crap house. I'm a big dude and needed every bit of room I could get.
     

    Attached Files:

  22. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 3,387

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    double Z ... me too ! ... 5.5" front, 7.5" rear... DSCN0689.JPG
     
  23. jp52
    Joined: Apr 17, 2011
    Posts: 120

    jp52
    Member

    Looks like a fun build. I'm at a similar stage with a 40 sedan. Will be watching closely.


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  24. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member

    Stubbsrod. Do you know what axel width you are running and what the wheel dimensions are?

    Timken
     
  25. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member

    Stubbs....Do you know what axle width you have and what your wheel combination is?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  26. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,175

    stubbsrodandcustom
    Member
    from Spring tx

    62" dodge 8.75 out of a 69 pickup that was my grandfathers. Rear wheels are 15x10 with 2.75 backspace.
     
  27. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member

    Okay, Finally got the car back from the sandblaster. I need to get some better pictures but it looked like it was going to rain so I rushed to off load.

    I need to figure out what my next step is. I ordered a frame last week. This frame actually isn't a double z. It has a 12" kick up in the rear and a swept front end along with a 5" magnum drop axle.

    I know I need to start patching. Looking like right lower outside door patch, both inner fenders, lower rear panel, both rear corners and then in need to figure out the sub-rails or make a new subfloor since it's being channeled 4". Basically the lower 6". Of the whole car!

    I know I won't finish the roof until the body is square in the frame but I'm torn between going full metal top, Traditional top, or the snap top that rolls back.

    Kris

    [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2017
  28. 28TudorAZ
    Joined: Dec 29, 2016
    Posts: 113

    28TudorAZ

    Looking good. Good luck in your build.
     
  29. Lace! Always good to know what you're working with though. Carry on, still following!
     
  30. Timken
    Joined: May 28, 2017
    Posts: 37

    Timken
    Member

    My space is kinda limited and my frame should be here next week so I am going to focus on getting the chassis rolling. I found a ford 9" out of a bronco with trac loc that I think is the correct width based on 1940 16" wheels. The frame has a 12" kick up in the rear and I think the 65" width will be perfect since it will sit so low. Fortunately, the complete assemble was super cheap. Bad news is it needs a total rebuild!!! I ordered all the rear end parts that I need to make it new again. I'm really struggling to find the right wheels though. I need 16x 5.5 wide in a 5x5.5 bolt pattern with White walled 750x16 for the rear and 16x4.5 wide with 600x16 tires for the front. I have yet to purchase front disc brakes yet so that bolt pattern is flexible. I am having a really hard time finding the wheels new. I don't really want pitted rusty originals. Any pointers on the right wheel and tire combo would be much appreciated. As I will need those very soon. For the front suspension I will be running Pete and jakes front hairpins along with a magnum 5" Drop axle which I will be ordering as soon and I pick wheels and tires!!! The wheels have been causing me lots of heartache hahaha

    Kris




    . [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]


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