Hot Rods 29 rusty crusty pickup cab chop

I went and got my 29 pickup cab out of where it was stored this week and sorta mocked it up. I chopped it 6" and here are some pics.

 

Should have went more...

 

Personally I like them stock height, the Jim Jacobs '28PU is perfect IMO. Bob

 

When you chop a T or an A the window channels taper to the outside as they get closer to the top. I like to keep them in line as I do a chop because glass does not lend itself to bending around the jog in the channel if you go straight down with the outside. To keep the window channel in line means that the outside of the door will need to be changed instead. I did this by pie cutting the post and rolling it in to meet the door top. I also removed the upper hinge mostly because it was missing anyway. when I cut the top I planned ahead and did not just cut it straight off but cut the outside and left the inside intact so that it would hold it all in line when it went back together.
The next pics show the door top partly installed a then all the way together.

You can see the vertical pie cuts in the door to close up the misalignment. All it takes is careful planning to make it come out right.
Jim Ford

 

The 6" chop is the equivalent of a 4" chop on a car. I have driven enough chopped cars to know that what I did was enough because this will be my daily driver when it is done.
Jim

 

A 4" chop on a 28/29 coupe will leave you with a 10 1/2" side window opening.. That chop looks more than a 10 1/2"opening but if your happy that's all that matters...

 

The total plan is to drop it on a flattened 32 frame that is pinched so that the rails line up perfectly with the bottom of the cowl after I cut 1" off of it and channel the cab that amount. The fender reveal in the frame will line up with the hood to cowl seam and the point of the door post will be at the top of the frame rail and curve down as it go's back to complement the frame reveal.

The back of the frame will be rolled up to level and the bed will bolt directly to it lining the belt line of the cab and the top of the bed rail up. I will also shorten the back of the box about 8 1/2". I will most likely make new cab corners because they are simple.

The rest of the chop on the rear is done by removing the rust at the seam where the upper and lower panels meet. I cut them off and refolded the edge shortening them each 1 1/2". I also did the same at the top and removed 1 1/2", the bottom of the lower panel gets cut off at the proper height for the chop and channel to work out right which should be 2 1/2".

This shows the uncut cab corners in relation to the back panel and the window panel.

 

I just measured it and it is in fact 11 1/2" opening. I had it mocked up a couple years ago and that was when I decided on the 6" chop to balance cool with drivability.
Jim Ford