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Hot Rods 29 Model A on a 32 Frame?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by hotroddub, Apr 22, 2011.

  1. Hey guys, we were going to start on my dads 29 pretty soon. I was wondering if their are any threads that cover putting a 29 body on a 32 frame. (yes I searched) I realize you need to cut the rear frame horns, but I just want to soak up all the info I can before we start. Thanks, Dub.
     
  2. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,955

    metal man
    Member

    Do you want the frame to look like a stock '32 frame? If so it will be almost the full rail width wider than the body at the cowl ( the '29 body is very narrow at the cowl).It looks cool that way cause it's the way it was when guys first started building A-V8's. You can also get new rails that look like '32 rails,but are contoured to fit the '29 body.Also be aware that a model A frame is flat on top and a '32 is not. '32 rails are kicked up over the rearend and at the cowl.The '29 body will need modifications in these areas if you use an original style '32 rail.
    I build '32 style rails that are flat on top and are shaped to match the '29 body (cowl).Hope that helps.
     
  3. We have an original frame and didnt want to pinch it. I kinda like the look without a pinched frame. Do you need to put a small peice of wood between the body and the fram? Ive heard their is a little gap under the doors after the body is set down.
    Thanks for the info.
     
  4. Deuce Daddy Don
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,545

    Deuce Daddy Don
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yep!---Thats what we did on son's '29 hiboy---Used a tapered strip of hardwood (OAK).
     

    Attached Files:


  5. These strips on my '28 are about three feet long. Looking down on them they're curved to match the arc of the frame rail. Looking from the side they're flat on top (to match the flat bottom body, and curved on the bottom to match the Deuce rail contour. It's easiest to cut them on a bandsaw. Drill and countersink three holes through the wood, drill and tap the rail and hold the strips down with 10-32 flathead screws. I cut my strips outta Poplar, then painted them black. I glued body webbing to the top of the poplar strips, and painted them black.
     
  6. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,955

    metal man
    Member

    Yep, the wood block deal works fine up front, and will produce a small gap under the doors. The gap is not noticeable unless you get down eye level with it. Like you, I also like the look without a pinch at the cowl, looks less modern.
     
  7. Deuce Daddy Don
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,545

    Deuce Daddy Don
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Forgot to add--------On '29 body where it dosen't quite fit the '32 frame contour (quarter panel), I made small slits top & bottom frame flanges, & gently squeezed to fit '29 panel, then tack welded slits, then checked to see fit before welding all the way---Then ground the weld flush on top & bottom flanges.------Don
     
  8. 29 bones
    Joined: Sep 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,138

    29 bones
    Member
    from so cal

  9. Thanks, that is an awesome roadster!
     
    303racer likes this.
  10. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 34,039

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I was just wondering how many times I have saved a photo of that car or maybe saved the same photo.

    Hotroddub there are a number of threads like the one 29 Bones gave the link to on here. Also I think Riley Automotive sells preformed rear body subframes for setting the A bodys on Deuce rails too.
     
  11. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 8,037

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

    I'm building a '28 Roadster on '32 frame right now. The rails are pinched at the cowl and even more at the grille shell. Instead of making a spacer to go between the subrails and frame, I did a pie-cut section on the bottom of the cowl. This brought the cowl down to where the subrails would sit on the frame.
    I also built new subrails out of 1"x2" tubing.

    Build thread here:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=567286


    Good luck with your project!

    Malcolm
     
  12. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,224

    F&J
    Member


    I'd go with the above ^ .

    It is what was done back then, so it really does look normal to the old rodders.

    I was fortunate to see one like this at a local show. It was a late 40s rod that ran Bonneville, etc, and was owned by the same guy for over 60 years before his family sold it. It was a real treat to see all the stuff they did back then. The wood strips were exactly as was said, and also painted black like the car.
     
  13. xix32
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 596

    xix32
    Member

    my favorite, doesn't look pinched.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Again, thanks for all the info guys. Once I get the frame up here I can see for my self, best way to learn is do it. I really like the wood shim idea, I think it will fit in with the era we're shooting for. I'll start a thread when I start building.
     
  15. Oh my! Thats perfect!
     
  16. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,842

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    ebay pics 793.jpg What I did is made my rails follow the body by piecutting ,And in the rear basically built it like a pro stock frame

    ebay pics 696.jpg
     
  17. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,224

    F&J
    Member

    No idea if this one is pinched, or if it has wood shims or not... all I know is I like it a lot....even though it is a cut off coupster top. Was on ebay a few years ago.
     

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  18. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    I'm doing a 29 Sedan on 32 frame as well. I never really understood just where the body subframe mounts. Flush with the bottom of the body sheetmetal? Deleted?

    I'm doing unpinched, wood atop frame for under door gaps.
     
  19. Cool post some pics when you start on it, please.
     
  20. Ok guys, I was wondering if anyone had a close-up pic of the shim between the body and frame. I got the body set on and the sub rails cut. It has about 1/2 inch gap untill the back of the cowl. Heres a pic of the car.

    [​IMG]
     
  21. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 8,037

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

    It seems like there were photos of the shim you are talking about when Jordan (5wbomber) did his Roadster. Not sure he's a member here anymore, but I'll look for his old threads....
     
  22. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 8,037

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

  23. Thanks Malcolm, I forgot about that car. Honestly Its a little bigger than I want, but its an awesome car though.
     
  24. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,226

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Does this help. I've seen an article on making the fiuller panel but can't locate it
     

    Attached Files:

  25. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    Just getting started on my frame now, no pics to post yet. May get to start welding some tomorrow, still have to box rails and build crossmembers.
     
  26. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Subscribed. I want to do unpinched, hoping to see more on spacers.
     
  27. firerod
    Joined: Jan 20, 2008
    Posts: 569

    firerod
    Member
    from Colorado

    Do you have any pictures of your trunk area? Looking for the cut's you had to make in the sub rails to fit the '32 frame.
     
  28. StrickV8
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,153

    StrickV8
    Member

    bump for anyone else...
     

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