Steve, Not many guys in my neck of the woods were running those. I actually heard they worked quite well,but when guys dump a bunch of money on something and get hosed,they are sometimes reluctant to admit it or talk about it,so I'm not sure about the valve guides. I would run em past your machine shop guy and see what he says. Scott Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Funny how a simple questain leads to a big different discussion Anyway, he's using the heads he has and having fun now!
Glad to see dug in and went to work on it! I always tell my buddies: "It ain't truly yours until it has made you sweat and bleed a little" Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If we are thinking of the same article, it was Hot Rod, early eighties, '82/'84. Multi-part series with builds of a new 302 Mustang and a 305 Camaro, with a drag challenge at the end. Leonard Emanualson (sp?) built the Mustang, and I want to say John Baechtel built the Camaro. IIRC, Ken Sperling (head honcho at AFR) did the headwork on the Ford, TRW L2450 flat-tops, HEAVILY modified Torker and a BIG 260ish@050 Clay Smith solid. I recall they initially dynoed it with a Clay Smith cam about 10 degrees shorter, but the big cam really hammered the smaller one on the dyno. Think RHS did the headwork on the Chevy, Comp Cams 306S, and a Victor Jr. Think the Camaro just edged out the Mustang, both ran high 12s. The Ford motor made right around 400hp, which is actually pretty stout for a naturally aspirated 302 with sixties era factory head castings.
I did a set of 67' 289 heads back in 71'..Using my calibrated finger I opened as much as I dared and to the gaskets available at the time and also opened up the Torker intake some also..Put everything on a 30 over 289 [292]..Still in the car, never finished the tune [picked up a 69' B302 block] but with too big a borrowed pair of slicks managed to get to 102 mph in the quarter with 271hp mech factory cam, 3350# car...Plan was to do a set of 351 heads, trw still made the pop up pistons back then so a porting I went...Original plan in 78' was to angle the valves [like in Kaase P38 head] and away I went..Had to keep toning things down every time I scrapped a pair of of heads, which was four times I think..I was getting the heads at the scrap yard from junked 69' and 70' 351engines...Final pair was going great, made set ups to machine the ports, a manual operated tracing from model ports looked just like present day cnc...After a couple or three years the last set was going great but lost one head do to core shift; had I looked at the casting lines on the outside of the head I wouldn't have used it, broke through in one exhaust and one intake port as the casting line indicated..I gave up..sold them to a guy that said he could have them welded. I didn't want to take the chance of a future crack as I wasn't a race only and he was..I know I got pics some wheres, I'll see if I can get them into the putor and post them; be amusing if nothing else..
I'd actually built a very similar motor to the one Emanualson did for the Hot Rod series a year or so earlier, for my Pinto, with a C-4 and a 10" converter. The main difference was the cam was quite a bit smaller, I used a Comp Cam 246/534/108 LSA I'd bought while I was working at Dix. The heads weren't quite as radical as the ones in the magazine build either. If I did that same deal now, I'd drill the pushrod holes, hammer brass tubes in them with locktite, widen the pushrod pinch till I saw brass, and run a cam with about 10 degrees more on the intake side on a 104 LSA. Wouldn't have been much point with the torker on there, but with the runner volume in some of the modern intake manifolds available now, I'd want the intake port as big as I could get it.
I'm flying home Wednesday,so expect to start seeing pictures up here between Christmas and new years day.... Scott Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The late Joe Mondello really emphasized carefully contouring the bowl areas of the port including the shaping of the valve guide. Joe wanted to see a nice gradual "venturi" curve leading into the valve seat (intake port) and a 30 - 35 back cut on the valve. Joe was a stickler for the air/fuel mixture entering the cylinder with the least amount of turbulence. Also clean up the casting lumps from the ports, do not polish the ports - stone finish is good. Exhaust bowls can be opened - not to be over done. Top edge of the ex. valve should be radiused to enhance flow. Polishing the ex. ports is optional. Remember that the valves and the combustion chamber walls are all involved in mixture movement into and out of the cylinder. If your son really "gets into " this stuff, get him reading Mondello, and also porting ideas by David Vizard (this guy will test to death anything he gets his hands on). Also, check out articles on building a flow bench, build it, learn all he can from it and later in life buy a professional bench.
And another intake....and valve covers....and headers....and pushrods....etc... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I'm always for trying it yourself . . . especially when massaging some stuff that can be easily replaced (I know a guy who filled in his pool partially with cast iron junk heads ) I've done several sets of heads and I am always trying to pick up stuff in person or online. E7TE intake port I messed around with on a Superflow 110:
Tyler: That looks like really nice work. I always have a hard time getting photos of ports to turn out right... Scott Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Tyler, nice, I can almost feel the die grinder in my hands!! Any place in the port where there was a major gain? I'm assuming bowl blend but would like to know how everything added up to final flow..
I unfortunately didn't have the time to do a lot of testing. It was really just flow a stock port and then flow that one. Also didn't have the wand hooked up The guides are usually the worst area on most of the ford heads I've seen (again, not a cylinder head guy by any means) and really looking back at this picture I could have thinned the guide out a little on the sides. From what I recall (about 5 years ago at this point) it flowed around ~210cfm with gt40 valves (1.84 In.) and I ignored the pushrod guide, broke into it, and then later re sleeved it with a piece of brass tubing so there was very little restriction there where the port starts. I later did a set of 460 heads and I swore off iron altogether after that
x3! After doing what feels like a million sets of sbf heads,I sure do like working with aftermarket aluminum stuff better on the labor end of it,but it sure feels good making a "junk" set of heads run circles around a set of aftermarket heads that were thrown on out of the box,usually with inferior springs,by some guy who is beaking off about how his shiny stuff is so much better than your crusty old stuff... Scott Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The Jalopy Journal
