It has the factory oem all original 235 + SM420 in it, along with factory oem HO72 rear end, gear ratio 456. Running 7.50-16"s on front and 7.00-18"s on rear.
Ya, you could put a race cam in it and it would be fine. It will be way into the rpms at nearly any speed. If you are leaving it alone it will be fine but if you change it for some reason you have more than enough mechanical advantage to lessen the "low end torque" concern.
I kind of just want to put it all back together and run it first and see how it handles. Then if it turns out that I need more hp down the line or to speed up, however ya wanna say it, then I can deal with that once I get settled and finally have a shop to pull her in and work out of the weather instead of doing it in the driveway and getting rained on or sunburned.
No problem. I am just saying a old deep geared 3/4 ton is way different than an economy geared truck pulling a load. It should run great!
Mine is a 1 ton low geared monster lol. 3600 is a 3/4 ton.. Mine is 3800 1 ton. I like that it is low geared cus it has towed a full size motorhome about 8 - 10 miles with no problem. Shows how tough it really is!
So, I just looked up on google that I am supposed to lubricate the cylinders .. So I will be working on doing that today. Hopefully I didn't do permanent damage with it not being lubed. I will continue to keep my eye on them, if it continues I may have to remove them again and do some light honing. Wish me luck!
So anyway, just went out to go through the rocker arms after I messed with the pistons and gave them a light oil back and cycled them around a few turns, now they seem to be doing better. Anyway, the rocker arms are FLAT on the one end, and inside what I assume is the pushrod seat, had little grooves in them, so I will be replacing them!! The corvette that I found the other day, I am wondering if I might be able to use the rocker arms from it? Is that possible, Or is that a bad idea? Also, I found online a set of "roller tip rocker arms for Sbc" Are these a viable upgrade option for the 283? Just trying to go over any good options that may be beneficial for me. Thanks in advance
Personally, I wouldnt waste money on roller tip rockers for a 283. On a big engine with a high lift camshaft, monster power, etc., it could make a difference, but not in this case. That said, if you have to buy rocker arms, I think the generic aluminum roller tips from Summit or Jegs are only marginally more price wise than a stamped steel OEM replacement. I will also add this, there are two kinds of "balls" that sit down in the rocker arm that the arm pivots against. The factory smooth kind (which OEM's used just fine for years) or you can get a set that is grooved, to allow a little bit better oil flow down into the mating surface between the arm and the ball. I am building a 283 and I went with the grooved rocker balls for that reason. Again, the OEM kind worked just fine and there is no "need" to go spend money that you dont have to. Me personally, any extra amounts of lubrication in a high friction area, I am all for.
Roller tip rockers are a gimmick and only gain power because some may be closer to the actual ratio of 1.5 than the OEM rockers that they replace. Either use stock or a new stock replacement.
Ok, and what about the rockers that I found on the Vette? Useable or no? Just wondering as it would save $$ as they would just say take em, other wise wait and buy new?? Pics of rocker arms
They look like they would work. Definitely should clean up the flat end where the valve stem tip rides at. Maybe use a soft wire wheel to clean up the gunk, but not something that will dig down into the metal. Clean the ball tip for the push rod to make sure you will have oil flow through the cup as it comes up out of the pushrod.
look good, the wearing surface is inside against the ball, look for cracks at the edges of the slots Sent from my S48c using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I guess if they aren't that bad then I will reuse them and clean up what I can to get the most out of them. I was concerned when I saw the flattened ends, (opposite the ball /seat end) of some of them.
I'm glad everything is going smoothly and that you haven't found any non-starters. "Clocking" the rings means to position them in the grooves so that the gaps don't line up. That is to prevent compression loss. Again, I don't want to tell/ask you anything that you already know, but did you use assembly lube on the bearings/crank? Torque to spec.? Also lube the cam/lifters, tips of pushrods/rockers. I didn't think to tell you that it would have been worth pulling the crank to install a rear main seal. I don't know how the front seals.
I should pull the pistons back out and reseat the rings then as I did not clock them . The front and rear main seals are 2 piece seals, and they look to be in decent shape, so I don't want to mess with them unless absolutely required to do so. Yes I did lube everything real good today, I do not have a torque wrench, so I am not sure how that is going to work as far as tightening everything down. I know not to go too tight, but I also know it can't be just finger tight either. If I can do it without the torque wrench, fine, if not then I will look around to see if I can borrow from somewhere. Haven't installed the heads yet, as I am waiting for an absolute dry day where it's not raining and f'ing up my progress. Once I get them installed, yes I will lube as needed/appropriately.
I would not attempt to build an engine without a torque wrench. I’ve been a professional diesel truck mechanic for 29 years and have an excellent feel for fastener torque but still would not try it. Even a $20 torque wrench from The Harbor would work on a Small Block Chevrolet. Look on the bay of E for an old Craftsman beam type torque wrench. They are slower than a click type, but it will teach you a lot about torquing fasteners. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Cool! Thank you. As I said many times I am learning as I go, so any info that helps me not screw this up since it is my first build I greatly appreciate!! I know someone who might let me borrow his since hes a neighbor.
I would recommend replacing the main seals while it is apart, as a leak after putting it together will be labor intensive if you don't replace it now!
Yes, When I looked at them earlier they looked like they were alright since I didn't mess with them. But I will replace them, since it could cause problems later I guess. Thanks
When you inspected the lifters did you remove them one by one and install them back in their "married to the cam lobe" location?
When I finally get this all together, what engine mounts work best as bolt in options for my truck? I do not want to cut or weld anything!!
Google engineswapmotormounts. Or you could call Chevy and see what stock mounts will work. I don't remember if you said what year the engine is. Someone here will probably know what will work. Re: "...about torquing fasteners." You need to find the bolt tightening sequence and procedure for tightening the head bolts. I'm not sure if it was this thread, but I saw that a copper sealant was recommended for shim gaskets. (Both sides) You can get it in spray, brush-on, or tube. The sequence will have a number for each bolt. Start by snugging each bolt down in order, then tighten them in sequence to (?) (20 lbs., 30 lbs., 40lbs., etc. until specified torque) When you install the oil pan and valve covers gaskets, run a bead of sealer (I use the red) around the surface of the pan/ covers. (including around each bolt hole) Lay the gasket on and put bolts through it to hold it in place while the sealer sets. Then apply the sealer to the gasket. Put a film of oil on the block/heads and then install the pan/ valve covers. Tighten the bolts only enough to hold the op/vc in place and not squeeze the sealer out. (Tighten until you see the sealer is compressing) When the sealer is cured, tighten to specs as per sequence. The film of oil will make removing/replacing possible.
I found the torquing sequence earlier and saved it for when I do the heads, mains, piston end caps. Thanks for info.
Just borrowed torque wrench from my neighbor and did main caps @ 70 ft lbs. piston caps @ 45 ft lbs Per google information of 1966 chevy bel air 283 engine torque specs Is what bill of sale said it came from was either bel air or impala, I believe they are the same either way.
Lifters I took out 1 at a time, and yes I returned them to the same hole they came out of. I might have answered this incorrectly before, is why I am correcting what I may have said. When I first read this I was referencing the rockers and pushrods in my response.
Ok, so the bottom end is complete and all back together , torqued and snugged up nice. Including oil pump and fuel pump, (so as to keep anything getting into crank case). Next will be the heads and such! **UPDATE** I have over spent my budget, so it may take a little while to continue. This really sucks cus I was having fun and learning how to do this, and now ****!!!!
One thing I just found online @ advanced auto is the cylinder head gasket spacer shim! $19.99 each!! Haven't got them yet, as I said I've already overspent my budget and can't afford to. darn it!
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