Customs 283 ENGINE

Copper Coat both sides

 

I live in Neb and I try not to buy from Speedway. So much Chinese junk. Even some of the name brand stuff they have "Walmarted" them on price to the point you get seconds or thirds. Some people have great luck, I wouldn't go there. Honestly a good machine shop can get parts from PBM or other place and will competitive. Or hell can you find NOS gm steel shims on Ebay? Rockauto?

 

And I guess since I already added most of my pennies anyway. I guess I wouldn't sweat the gasket bore diameter as much as the thickness. Yes it counts but using a set of .015 4.10 keeps a tight quench and with a mild cut on the head would easily keep or bump the stock compression. Using a .039 blue stripe would hurt compression and quench.

 

Neb Hillbilly: So does a Z28 spring increase volume or pressure? My point was that the additional volume is more desirable than high PSI. I always used TRW pumps, not sure they are still made;though.

 

Well I went to salvage yard and picked up the push rod and fuel pump mounting plate as well they let me take a water pump off an old caprice that was just hauled in has a nice v8 in it so i might rob parts from it that are any good.

Any way, I just scrubbed the tops of the pistons they say 10. - 11 - & one says 13.

 

The z-28 spring increases pressure, stock.pumps have more than enough volume. The stock 283 compression was calulated with steel shims because that is what GM used. going to a .039 will decrease the compression and change the quench from .035+ stock to .055+.

Sent from my S48c using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Fair enough, so maybe it’s just a fluke I’ve gotten a lot of longevity running the high volume ones...thank god.

 

HV pumps are fine but unnecessary. I have built plenty of dirt track SBC that turn 6500-7000 lap after lap with a stock pump. I like to see pressure on the gauge but the old 10 psi per 1000 rpms will keep most motors safe. On this engine I would check the clearances and replace the bearings if it is loose.

Sent from my S48c using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Hey, E. Hey, y'all. I told E to look for numbers on the pistons to see if it had been bored. Does anyone know what those numbers (10,11,13) are? I don't think they indicate oversize pistons.

 

88 caprice, and i checked and it seems to be a shorty pulley water pump, it matches the size mine is on the truck length wise, so i'm thinking I might be safe with it. 9 there was no pump on the 283 to compare, it was nowher
I only snagged it cos I want to close up any and all holes so water doesn't creep in anywhere.
I'm going to reuse everything that came off this engine except for gaskets seals and motor mounts, etc.

 

Oh, well at least it'll keep rain and water out till I can get one that will.

 

Ooops, I need to correct myself.. the water pump came off a corvette, I forget what year, and the fuel pump mounting plate and pushrod came off the caprice.. Sorry bout that.

 

I'm pretty sure Corvette used a short pump until 82. After 1970, they have a special Corvette short pump, but it would still be considered short.

 

When I put the pushrods and rockers back together, I know to replace the "umbrella seals," but looking up parts says they also use o ring seals? Is this accurate? and if so, how do I install all of this?

I found the shim - gaskets, got those, now tomorrow I plan to get umbrella seals, and not sure what else I need before putting the rockers and pushrods back together and installing the heads, adjusting rocker arms and what not...

 

Are you going to re-ring the engine?? It is highly advisable while it is stripped down.
Also knock the freeze plugs out and clean/flush the water jackets.

For re-ring jobs here in NZ we have rings called "PROTEC" by ACL/ Mahle. These rings have a slight rebate in the top ring so it doesn't contact any lip in the bore.
Hopefully some USA HAMBers can chime in with an equivalent brand for the USA

I've used them on re-ring jobs without the need for honing [5.0 Fords]

Yes, use umbrella seals [they are cheap to do now]

 

I'll let others avdise you on the valve seals, but I do want to mention that it would be a good idea to keep things sealed up during and after you get it assembled, mice really love to hide in engines when they can.

 

Man, she types fast, and when she says "rebate" on the rings, that means they have a chamfer, or small tapered area where they travel to the top of the cylinder, so the cylinder ridge does not break them.

 

Yes, already replied before about rings. I plan to re-ring em.

The ones in it currently look nice n shiney, as if someone had them done not long ago, but that doesn't make sense for as long as the guy said it's been sitting around.

Also, before re-installing pistons, should i clean up the piston tops so they aren't all caked black?

I pulled the lifters out and gave em a good rub down and cleaned up, they weren't mushroomed or anything so will reuse as well

Also, can anyone tell me, did chevrolet make a single year bell housing in 1963, that will only fit 1963 v8?

asking because I found a bell on ebay, but they said it ONLY fits 63's!

true or false? thnx

 

i've had a couple 283's from that era, and a lot of 'em had problems with the cam going flat...

 

This one seems to be fine, I've spun it over several times watching the lifters move up and down, also pulled some of the lifters and spun it and the cam looks good far as I can tell. But then, I'm obviously no expert. lol

 

For some reason the newly introduced Muncie 4 speed used a front bearing retainer with a smaller diameter, so yes that particular 1963 bell housing will only work with a ‘63 Muncie. In ‘64 the retainer diameter was made the same as all the other manual transmissions.

 

Yes, the tops of the pistons, and every part and area inside the engine needs to be nothing but metal. You don't want a piece of carbon coming loose and getting between the piston and cylinder wall or between a valve and seat. And you don't want any (any) kind of non-oil (debris) to get in the oil, so the inside of the crankcase has to be white-glove clean.
If you have a rotary wire brush and a drill, that would work on the piston tops.
Have you been able to see the back of the valves? Someone suggested buying (maybe borrow from AZ?) a valve spring compressor and lapping the valves. That would also give you the opportunity to clean any carbon from the (I think they call it "flute") and clean any varnish on the stem.

 

From what I can see of the valves the have good seating and I plan to scrub the crap out of all of them, pistons valves and what ever else I need to. No wire brush(s).

 

I know that plan is a sm420, what gears does the truck have?

Sent from my S48c using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Ok the stock valve seals are small O rings that seal the retainer to the valve stem. Umbrella seals are used sometimes when the valve guides become worn. Ive seen those numbers on stock pistons before. I think they are balance or deck height related. All sets of pistons and rods are balanced within a +&- tolerance. and the distance from the deck is also a +&- tolerance. If a engine is over bored every piston would be marked with a .030 _.060 ect. If your cam and lifters are good why not reuse them? If you later decide to change the cam it can and has many times been changed with the engine in the vehicle.

 

I knew some guys that installed a 283 in a 57 Three Quarter Ton. Had a Heavy duty shop built front bumper. Was flying down the main road listening to the glass packs roar. And a rusty more door Ford Pulled out in front of them. The Guy driving hit the brakes so hard It sheared the badly worn pin connecting the brake pedal to the master cyl. hit the Ford full speed right behind the drivers door. Drove almost all the way thru the rust bucket. almost tore it into. Never hurt the old truck at all. after that they named the old 57 Ford Killer.

 

I am actually going to reuse everything.
The rings are done, got my pistons in and getting ready to bring the heads back out and install them along with the rockers and pushrods.

All rods are clean straight, no nicks or bends of any sort, I was only asking about seals and umbrella seals because of a youtube video, wasn't sure if I had to have them or not.
The lifters all look good, pulled them out none are mushroomed or pitted, so will be reusing them as well. never pulled the cam so it will stay, never pulled crank so should be able to get timing lined up correctly without much trouble. (I hope)
When I got the pistons in am I supposed to lube them at all? (again youtube information)
I did notice on 2 of the piston heads as they slide up and down a slight scratch?? Nothing deep or gouging, but didn't want to do serious damage so left it be til I know what to do.

Before I installed them I ran my finger around all the cylinders, they were/are all smoother than glass! I honed a couple of them lightly, and wiped everything down with a clean rag so as not to leave any kind of debree, only thing I did not do was to lube the cylinders or pistons as I wasn't sure if I am actually supposed to or not.

Anyway, other than that they all move smoothly and no binding , nothing feels tight (not too tight so as to not move)
So, before going any further I will wait and hear from anyone as to why the 2 would leave a mark. Again, rings are done, however, I saw after the fact something about "clocking the rings"???
I did not know what that meant, and if that causes issues I will gladly pull the pistons and redo them to save any further marks.

Thanks in advance.