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Customs 283 ENGINE

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mister E., Feb 27, 2020.

  1. BoogittyShoe
    Joined: Feb 18, 2020
    Posts: 330

    BoogittyShoe

    Re: "...not as savvy..."
    Never feel bad about what you don't know. No one knows anything until they learn it.
    This is wayyyy off subject, (but it is about "lesson learned"). I thought I would splurge and try a crab salad from Walmart. Never tried it. Big letters- CRAB SALAD. I got home and in little, thin, squeezed-together letters - " Imitation Crab Meat". What is that?
    I should have learned ("Read the fine print") the time I got home with imitation honey. Looked like Valvoline 50 weight.
     
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  2. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Ok, well that's another thing I will have to address when the time comes.

    I actually like my foot starter, but if it's not compatible then I guess it is what it is.

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2020
  3. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,777

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Put the regular starter on and put a button type switch under your start pedal. no linkage needed!:)
     
  4. Hollywood-East
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,215

    Hollywood-East
    Member

    If you're going to regasket it, I would highly recommend a new oil pump/timing chain set (as mentioned) valve seals should come in gasket set.... Both will be reused even if there is the knock of doom...
     
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  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,708

    squirrel
    Member

    Perhaps you're not familiar with how the Chevy six foot pedal starter works? The pedal assembly is attached to the bellhousing, and there is no provision for it on the V8 bellhousing (as well as no easy way to get the linkage where it needs to go to work).

    lousy pic, I don't have any handy to take a better picture of.

    starter.jpg
     
  6. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    That's exactly what I plan to do, tear down, clean up, regasket, and pray for the best outcome!!
     
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  7. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Btw, looked closer at oil pan, there is a big dent in the bottom of it, so I most likely will have to replace it, since I dont think it's possible to bang out an oil pan without damaging it.
    If I'm wrong, please let me know.
    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2020
  8. Ive straightened several oil pans that where simply dented. Mostly on farm tractors. as long as the gasket surfaces are good. they will be ok.
     
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  9. How bad is the dent,,,,almost anything can be straightened .

    Tommy
     
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  10. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    I will take picture and show what I am concerned about.

    Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,449

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    I'm following this to see how you do. I have a 283 that came from my Grandfather's '67 Chevy pickup. It was smoking some in the late 70s so he and my uncle installed a junk yard 327. I've had it since then and it has resided in the corners of 3 different shops. It has never been opened up and always been under cover. I'd love to put it in something someday. I have a nice close ratio Saginaw that that would like to be behind it.
     
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  12. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    Just added some pictures.
     
  13. You’re right,,,it took some good hits,,,but nothing that can’t be fixed very easy .
    Do you want to save the pan for sentimental reasons or don’t care .
    You can replace it fairly easy,,,or spend an hour or so and fix what you got .
    Be creative with some wood and a hammer .
    Those dents will come right out,,,if you really want to do a perfect job,,use a bag with lead shot.
    Just take your time,,,nothing to it .
    The good thing is looks like the pan rail is perfect,,,that is the most difficult to fix,,,so you should be good .

    Tommy
     
  14. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    Not sentimental about the pan, but I'll try the hammer and a small 2×4 piece and see how it does.

    If I dont need to spend extra $$ on things that can be fixed then all the better, but whatever does need replaced I will definitely be taking care of those asap.

    I'm on a fixed income, so it won't be a speedy thing. I'll just buy what I can as I need it and go from there.
     
  15. Hollywood-East
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,215

    Hollywood-East
    Member

    A straight used pan hot tanked from a local machine shop is as cheap/Rite as it will get... Unless your buddy has one...
     
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  16. Hollywood-East
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,215

    Hollywood-East
    Member

    Your pan is intercoursed... IMO
    Only.... Because being around drain.... Shit gets weird real fast trying to straighten that out an not leak ... Yes it could be saved with someone with a torch an fineness...
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2020
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  17. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    Well that figures!
     
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  18. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,777

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    I have a couple 50 Chevy trucks so I am familiar with them. He could disconect all the linkage put a spring and a stop on the pedal. Mount the switch right on the floor or under the cab for the pedal to touch. Gary
     
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  19. Jessie J.
    Joined: Oct 28, 2004
    Posts: 335

    Jessie J.
    Member

    A scrapyard 283 I bought had a clunk-clunk sound when the crank was turned back and forth, was advised it sounded like a loose timing chain, put a new timing set on it and that dang clunk was still there.
    Pulled the oil pan and #3 rod was so loose that I could rattle it. My buddy junkyard mechanic went to his tool box and dug around a bit and came up with a single set of rod bearing inserts, put 'em in and we sealed her up.
    Engine and a used Power Glide ended up in my '62 Rambler Classic, soon after to be equipped with a Duntov solid lifter cam (turned out the original cam had a flat lobe) Weiand Hi-Rise and AFB.
    Ran the hell out of that thing for the next 2 years, with many blasts up to 6000 rpm and over 100 mph, never had the engine apart again, and when I sold it, it was still running great.
    Anyway, If you are pulling the oil pan to bang it out and seal it up, might think of sticking in a set of rod bearings.
    The Force be with ye.
     
  20. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Going to be checking everything out to make sure what it needs, and what it doesn't necesarily need at this point.
    Anything it needs that is of major concern will be done right away.
    First things first, it needs a good cleaning and start labeling / logging each part for disassemble.
     
  21. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Trying to find a bellhousing for this 283 as well as correct gasket set so I can start tearing into it and see what shape everything is in.

    Proving to be a bit of a challenge, I can thus far only find head gasket, valve cover, or oil pan gasket.. But not a full gasket set.

    I'm hoping once I open it up that I won't need to replace anything major.

    I did price out fuel pump, water pump, since they both need to be replaced anyway.

    Picking up fuel pump later today.

    My main concern is to get the engine cleaned up, making sure it's not broken or damaged internally or anything and get ready for transplant!!

    Will keep you all posted.
     
  22. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,708

    squirrel
    Member

    I'd do the inspections and checks before buying parts....just in case.

    you seriously can't find a gasket set?

    gaskets.jpg

    (...and ignore the head bolt BS, you don't need to replace the head bolts unless they're rusted away)
     
  23. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Oh damn, I didn't even think of rock auto, cut when I called they said they didn't carry anything for the year of my truck!

    Thank you for this, which gasket set is correct for my truck?
    I believe I go by year of my truck with the 283, or do I go by year of engine?
    Just want to make sure I get the right one.
    Thank you
     
  24. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,708

    squirrel
    Member

    Are you buying gaskets for the truck, or for the engine that's going into the truck? Seems pretty clear to me.
     
  25. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    For the 283 engine.
    Yeah, now that I read that, I got it.

    Still on my first cup of coffee here , lol

    Thanks Squirrel
     
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  26. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,708

    squirrel
    Member

    glad to help.
     
  27. BoogittyShoe
    Joined: Feb 18, 2020
    Posts: 330

    BoogittyShoe

    I just had a thought. (Yeah, this early)
    If you haven't tried working out the oil pan dent yet, put the drain plug in from the inside. (really tight) I think the head will make a good surface to strike it and if it's tight it won't damage the threads. I'd put it on the ground to hammer it. That will support it around the dent but still let it (*thinking of word*) re-form. (?)
    PS: Think "I WILL fix this oil pan."
     
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  28. I have a good supply of those truck bellhousings. however shipping would be expensive.
     
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  29. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,708

    squirrel
    Member

    I'm down to only having two of those bellhousings, and places for both of them to go....
     
  30. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    How much?
     

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