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Customs 283 ENGINE

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mister E., Feb 27, 2020.

  1. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 334

    Jacksmith
    Member

    My 283 is a 66-67. It has 3896944 cast numbers @ the driver's side rear of the block. When you clean it up & re-gasket everything, I recommend replacing the timing chain & gears while you're at it. You don't know how many miles are on it and SBC engines might get 100,000 miles out of an O.E.M. set if it's not worked too hard. Also, replace the oil pump! 283's are tough little engines that love to run! Not overly powerful, but reliable as an anvil! IMG_0119.JPG
     
    61Cruiser and Mister E. like this.
  2. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Got engine hoist, getting setup and praying all goes well!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 1, 2020
  3. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Well, I found a oil pan gasket kit and got it installed and looks to have sealed up nicely.
    I am going to see what i can get done tomorrow and start un hooking wires and labeling everything where it goes.
    Next will be the unbolting the driveshaft, and motor / trans mounts and exhaust manifold flange bolts.
    Hope I am not missing a step in between, but will keep you all up to date as best i can.
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  4. BoogittyShoe
    Joined: Feb 18, 2020
    Posts: 330

    BoogittyShoe

    I know you are glad to have things moving again. It's going to be like a different truck.
     
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  5. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    Absolutely!!
     
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  6. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Got my Y pipe today, $18.00 @ pull n pay.
    Now I need a heat riser and donut gaskets, then I'm going to cut and mend the Y pipe to the existing exhaust system.

    I am hoping to get this done by mid to end of next week, and have it bolted in wired up and ready for first start!
     
  7. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    A quick question, does the exhause REQUIRE a heat riser?
    Or is that something that can be ignored?

    I know my 235 has it built into the manifold, but this setup does not and it's an added expense.

    Pro's n con's??

    Thanks in advance
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2020
  8. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 18,603

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    the purpose of a heat riser is this. when the engine is cold the heat riser closes and forces the exhaust up thru the crossover passage in the center of the intake manifold. The heat from it acts on the choke stove on the carburetor and allows the choke to open as the engine warms up. without a properly working heat riser the choke will not open when it should and will cause excessive fuel consumption and a rich poor running vehicle. If you are running either a hand choke or an electric choke then a heat riser is not needed
     
  9. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Yeah, I have a hand choke setup.
    I have always used a hand choke when possible.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2020
    Moriarity likes this.
  10. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 974

    X-cpe

    Another reason for the heat riser is to warm the manifold when the engine is cold to better atomize the air/fuel mixture. As the engine warms the heat riser is no longer necessary so it opens and lets all the exhaust flow down the pipe.
     
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  11. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Going to stick with my hand choke, I am sure it will be fine. If it seems to run too lean I believe I can always adjust that at the carb.
     
  12. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,582

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    Just a thought. Maybe the guy you bought the motor from had a 58 Impala that someone had put a later 283 in and the guy didn't know anything about it. He may have not been intentionally dishonest about the description. He may have just assumed the motor came from the car and was the original motor ? At the price he gave it to you, he wasn't trying to cheat you. Either one would have been worth the money. 283's are cool. Enjoy your progress as we will watching you build it.
     
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  13. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    I don't know, either way doesn't matter. Is what it is.
    Trying to pull the 235 now, running into issues finding where to unbolt the trans and remove ebrake shifter and trans shifter.
    Typical things that need to go through
     
  14. Mimilan
    Joined: Jun 13, 2019
    Posts: 598

    Mimilan
    Member

    Pos + side of the coil gets 12v +
    The neg - side of the coil grounds via the points in the Dist.

    A ballast type coil is about 9v [which is about the same voltage drop as when the engine is being cranked over]
    When running, there is no battery voltage drop so you need the ballast resistor.

    Some Chevy ignition switches don't have ignition while the engine is cranking . [ours doesn't] There is an "R" post on the starter solenoid that connects to the 12v + side of the coil bypassing the ballast. This feeds 9v to the 9v coil allowing for voltage drop.

    To check to see if your ignition switch has 12v while cranking disconnect the "S" wire on the starter [so it won't start] then get somebody to hold the switch in start position.
    Use a test light at the coil.

    Usually those type of switches have 2 ignition wires [55-56 chevys] The "run" wire goes to the ballast and the start "ign" wire to the coil.

    On our chevy we re-installed the points ballast ignition. We are now using a 6 cylinder Chevy coil from a 56 chevy [a gift]
    There is no difference between a 6 and V8 coil , so use what is originally in your truck to keep the wiring simple.

    You will probably need to extend the wires to the starter motor on the V8 conversion by about 18"
    Joining the wires is sort of "hack job"
    The best method is to mount a $15 Ford type starter relay on the firewall . This eliminates any starter "Heat soak" issues as well as providing a joiner for the heavy duty cables.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2020
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  15. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Ok, thank you.

    Befor I get that far, I am having issues to remove the transmission.
    I am able to unbolt motor mounts, but when I looked for the transmission mount bolts I don't see them.
    I can use a little help on this.

    Thanks in advance
     
  16. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,261

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    On that year of a GM truck, the lower transmission bellhousing bolts go into the transmission from the bellhousing, while the top go from the transmission into the bellhousing; who knows why they did that with trucks and not cars?. Is that the issue, or something else? There should't be an extension housing crossmember if that's what you're looking for. Engine supported at the from, and at the bellhousing via a crossmember under the bellhousing.
    I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
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  17. On the rams horn manifolds. the drivers side has a bevel for the donut gasket. the passenger side is flat and a gasket fits between the manifold and heat rizer and the bottom of the heat rizer has the bevel for the donut gasket. So yes its necessary to have a heat rizer to not have a donut gasket leak. Or use two driver side manifolds.
     
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  18. leave the trans in the truck. support it with anything that will hold it up. Then bolt your bellhousing to the trans and rear crossmember. Install the clutch fork and throwout bearing. Then you can lower the engine in and easily connect the bellhousing. Why wrestle with a heavy granny 4 speed when its easier to leave it in place?
     
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  19. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Thats what I'd like to do, but not sure how to separate the trans from engine.
    I think I have to pull the dust cover from under bell housing and 2 of the 4 bolts I would think are access in there and the other 2 the outside of the bell??

    Or am I mistaken non that?
    Other wise I am trying to make sure that it will come out and let me swap it over.... some how...
     
  20. That's correct two lower trans to bell bolts inside the bell accessible after removing dust cover. the upper two removed from the rear. a ratchet strap or two attached to the frame rails ought to hold the trans up when you pull the engine.
     
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  21. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    How about if I just plant my floor jack under the trans to hold it in place?

    Going to attempt a second time tomorrow to get this accomplished.
     
    Old wolf likes this.
  22. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    Will the same clutch assembly swap over to the 283?
     
  23. the throwout bearing will work. Most V8 flywheels have a 11 inch clutch. the 6 cyls usually are a smaller diameter.
     
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  24. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Guess I'll have to wait til I get a clutch set then. Darn it!!

    Should have known this wouldn't be just a simple swap out.
     
  25. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    You will have to look, it may have the correct clutch already. If you think this is complicated, you need to play with some Fords, you will love your simple Chevrolet then.
     
  26. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA


    Well this is my first so I am just trying to make it go as easy as I can.

    Just looked online and saw the clutch & pressure plate for 1963 - 66 283 / 327 says 10 1/2" diam.

    Not sure what is in the truck currently.

    But I will find out soon enough I guess.
     
  27. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    I can't remember, do you have a new flywheel?
     
  28. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Have the same flex plate that came attached with 283
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2020
  29. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Ah, very good. I was thinking it had a flex plate on it, my bad.
     
  30. Mister E.
    Joined: May 4, 2018
    Posts: 474

    Mister E.
    Member
    from USA

    Is all good.
    Yes it came with what I assumed to be a flywheel.

    I'm wondering if the clutch will match up to it as is or not.?.

    Also, just remembered, this thing had I think was a powerglide automatic trans when I bought it. I told him no thanks and only got the engine.

    Now, my question is.. Will still work or no?
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2020

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